ASD relay clicking, they say PCM, I question that.

I own a 2002 Chrysler T&C 3.8L V6 w/ around 90K miles. Two weeks ago I pulled it into the garage and turned it off. I heard a noise coming from my dash, sounded as if my CD player were trying to eject a cd. Powered back up and pressed eject, nothing to eject. When I turned it off and opened the door, not only did I hear a “whirling” sound coming from the dash, but there was also a rapid clicking coming from the fuse box by the battery. I pulled the cover off the box and determined the clicking sound was coming from an ASD relay. Went and purchased a new one. After a simple replace, I again got the clicking ASD relay as soon as I turned the ignition switch. Removed the ASD relay and began my internet search. Two days later I try to start it and it was completely dead. Couldn’t even jump it, just clicked. Took the battery to an auto store who tested it; tested fine but low charge - charged it. Rule out battery. It appears I am not the only sad sack who has experienced this problem.

A few days ago I called my local Dodge/Chrysler dealer and told them of my problem and was told I had a bad battery, that there wasn‘t enough amps. Fist of all, the ASD is clicking without a key even in the ignition, let alone turned to be powered up. I tell him the battery tests fine and share with him that I have seen a lot of on-line posts where people are suggesting to replace the PCM but they continue to have the same problems after replacment. The mechanic at the dealership told me it was likely not the PCM since the ASD relay is actually getting powered (or something along those lines).

So today I go out with a freshly charged battery and try to get it started so I can take it to the dealership. Dead! But it did click a lot louder. Towed to dealership. The dealership calls and tells me it needs a new PCM ($730 + $285 labor + taxes = well over $1000.00). I ask if he is sure that is the problem. He proceeds to tell me that they will not know if there are other problems until they fix the PCM and run the codes to see what else pops up bad. Is this unacceptable to anyone else but me? But I am at a severe disadvantage. Replacing a fuse is about as much as I can do in the automotive field and I am completely out of my league. I don’t even know the terminology (as evident, I’m sure) where I can speak with any sort of authority. But I also don’t feel like the dealership is even trying. It just seems sloppy and lazy to me. I tried to have a conversation with this young kid this morning and I may as well have been speaking Swahili. Maybe I’m wrong? Maybe the PCM is the problem? But a majority of the posts I read are where people replace their PCMs and they continue to have the problem. But they really have you, don’t they? After all, what am I going to do, fix it myself? Eat the $80 tow and the $95 inspection and have it towed back in my driveway to rot? I sure wish I were more educated/empowered to combat this awful feeling. This is not just a cathartic release… do any of you have advice as to what YOU would do (minus me going to automotive school) if you were me?

> First, if it really is the PCM, and I have huge doubts, they can be had for around $250 from several internet sites, preprogrammed and ready to go. You just supply the VIN number and install it when it shows up.

> Second. Your ASD relay is clicking with the key off. Why? Key on or off, power is always applied to the ASD relay coil and the PCM. It only takes a ground applied by the PCM to actuate the relay. This normally happens when the PCM sees a good crank and camshaft signal as the engine cranks and runs. The ASD relay coil then pulls its output contacts closed (the click) sending power to the ignition coil, fuel injectors, blah blah blah. That's the way it is supposed to work. Here's the key. The PCM needs clean steady power to operate correctly. If it's not there you'll see the classic signs of weak unsteady power - clicking relays. Yup, back to your battery or maybe a loose/corroded connection at the battery or where the positive connects in the PDC or the chassey ground.

Clearly, the battery has given you recent problems. It drained at least once and has been recharged. If this is a newer battery I'd be reluctant to change it too but if its been in there 4-5 years, get a new one regardless of how many tests it passes. I can hear those heels diggin in. Alternatives? Barrow a known good battery. Connect jumper cables. If your charger has a start feature flip that switch and see if the clicking stops.

I would be looking in side the IPM. They are know to corrode inside. IPM is the fuse block the ASD relay is plugged into.

I would be looking in side the IPM. They are know to corrode inside. IPM is the fuse block the ASD relay is plugged into.

Yup, another possibility. One expert insists on changing the IPM if you find corrosion on the internal circuit board. It apparently can't be cleaned. IPM = Integrated Power Module.

Thanks RIP and jpb53. I have a STRONG feeling the dealership hasn't looked at anything and plans to replace until teh problem is solved. Almost every post in regard to this situation points back to an lectrical problem otside the PCM unit. Of course, a big $ item they want to blame out of the box. Your suggestions are on my list of things I want them to check. I'll let you know what they tell me. Thanks again.