97 Bravada electrical issues mabey?

I pasted this from my original post on the bravada forum. List of unresolved problems~ Cold start issue, interior electrical stuff which includes: power mirror switch does nothing, wipers only work on highest setting, dome and floor lights will not turn off unless i pull the fuse (map lights work fine), overhead digital display will only hold reset until i shut off the truck then it reverts back to former readings (fuel econ, estimated milage, etc.), and fuel tank venting issue I think because I can hear the gas tank flexing when i shut the truck off @ 1/4 tank or less. The rest of this post lists everything else.

Sorry for such a long interval since my last post. I have been busy fixing the little things on the truck in my free time. So here is my update. The only trouble code the truck has thrown since i bought it was the evap emission code, that was solved by replacing the swiss cheese vacume lines under the hood. Truck started overheating on me a couple weeks ago, guessing that was due to air pockets in the system from when i flushed the engine~ ran heater and AC for about 30 min each and kept topping off the coolant~ problem fixed. Threw a new gas cap on her just to be sure since it was cheap and never hurts to replace the caps every so often. My cold start issue is still unresolved but I have found a trick to living with it for now~ turn key just enough to engage the starter for a split second, 3rd time around she pops right off, kinda seems like she wants to flood just a little bit before fireing up. Fuel pressure is in the specs listed all over these forums until I get to about 1/4 tank of fuel then pressure drops considerablly and the tank flexing starts when i kill the engine, while running the pressure is good. Also below a 1/4 tank she will die on me if I am stopped on a downward incline. Again not really worried I can just keep the tank full for now until i get enough free time to rip into her. I noticed just a few days ago that my break pedal was getting a little soft. Driverside front break line at the caliper was only finger tight and the bleeder screw wasnt tightened properly.....started to bleed the brakes and eventually get a solid pedal, at least until I fired the engine up then she went to the floor again. Decided to try bleeding with the engine running. Every time I would pump the breaks the rpm would drop and almost stall the engine and then rev itself up to around 2500 rpm for a few seconds, normal idle is 800-900. This confused the hell out of me but i got the pedal solid so didnt worry about it....until now because since doing that my rear window are stuck in the down position. Since it is highly unlikly that both motors would go out at exactly the same time and right after the hinkey break pedal rpm issue, I am thinking all my problems are electrical issues? Electrical and wiring is my downfall when it comes to vehicles, no clue where to start looking or even what to look for. Any hints or tips would be much appreciated....brand new interstate battery that was load tested upon purchase btw. Thanks guys