Check Engine Light won't read/vacume leak

Hi Whomever,

I'm working on a 95 Jetta GL 2.0 w/ about 67k on it. I was on my way back from a long drive and suddenly my check engine light came on. The car started to hesitate during acceleration but seems pretty good otherwise. My exhaust had a large leak in it so I figured the hole got bigger and the loss of power was from a loss of back pressure and the check engine light was the O2 sensor. Well I fixed my exhaust. New muffle, pipe, etc. Now the light is still on and I still have a low amt of power.

Since no one in town seems to be able to read an odb1 for free I decided to look it up online. It turns out that I can do it myself. I attempted and the code would not read. This is shown in this vid: http://dl.dropbox.com/u/623121/P1000501.MOV

Also I have a quick demo of when my check engine light turns on here: http://dl.dropbox.com/u/623121/P1000502.MOV

I went under the hood to see if there was a vacuum leak. I think I found one. The black filter box that goes from the intake manifold to the black filter box and then to some silver solenoid. I'll put a pic up tomorrow of it. However after taking if off checking for a leak and putting something on it to help w/ the leak it's still making a sucking noise.

I guess my ? is could this leak suddenly happen and cause my check engine light to come on while making a hesitation on my acceleration.

I would appreciate any help you could provide.

Well today I had my codes read. Turns out I had 3 codes 00515 - Camshaft position sensor - Open circuit/short, 00553 - Mass airflow sensor - short with ground, 00517 - engine speed sensor - no signal.

Does anyone have any idea what this could be caused from w/ my symptoms? I think that when I was driving I skipped a tooth on my timing belt. That's the only explanation I can come up for for the 1st and 3rd code. the maf I think it was from when I unplugged it to test something.

Well I was correct. The timing belt jumped a notch. I just got done replacing it after a few set backs and now the light is off and the car is running great! Something to note that I didn't know before: the rotor for the cap is actually attached to the gear just above and to the right of the crank gear not to the crank like I assumed when I was timing it before. I never knew this so i think my timing was off a smidge for a very long time but the notch jump just made the car limp. Anyway all is well. I like to post my progress and solutions on forums so that in the future if someone is looking up the same problem I had they don't have to put up a new post cuz I already answered what they need.

Glad you solve your issues. Your post will surely help someone having the same problems. Thanks!
Franco