Camry Pass. side power window problem

I have a '92 Camry. For the past year, the front and rear pass. side windows have not worked. They WILL lower, but will not raise. I've tested all connections and have power at the motor. I also ran jumpers to the motor "plug" and got the both windows to raise, but they still do nothing with the switch. Obviously the motors, wiring, and switches are working. What am I missing?

Check the wiring harness to the driver's side door between the door and body...covered by the rubber boot. The constant flexing from door opening and closing causes the wires to fatigue and break. You can sometimes get intermittent contact by pinching and rolling the harness between your fingers while opening/closing the door some.

You can either replace the wiring harness or repair the wires by splicing in new runs. Hope this helps!

Hey, thanks for the reply. I was able to get to most of the wiring and I don't see any bad spots on the insulation. I also have constant power while shutting/ opening the door, so I don't think its rubbing anywhere. There has to be something bad somewhere with having power to both doors and both windows going down but not up. I've got constant power at the connection for both up and down action on both front and back doors, but no up movement.

Are you getting a full 12vdc using the drivers side switch compared to the passenger side switches? Reason I ask is both the passenger side window motors are supplied power on a single wire coming off the power relay split at a splice where as the drivers side window motors each have their own power wire off the power relay. If they are dead from all switches then disregard.

I don't know that I'm getting 12v's at the motor because I don't have a meter to test that. I have a test light and it lights up at the pass. side connection, (where it connects to the window motor connection), when pushing:
Up/ down on drivers side main controls, and up/ down on pass. side controls both front and back. I also have a positive light when the harness is plugged back into the motor connection and I probe the wires on the motor side of the connection and use the up/ down button. So I know I have power to the motor on the front and rear window, but no upward travel. So what I'm not understanding is I have "up" power at both motors, but the motor isn't cooperating. I would think it was the motor if it wasn't both of them having a problem.

I am having the same problem (suddenly) on my 2000 Camry's passenger window. Rolled down the windows today until the AC started cooling and they ALL rolled up fine, except for front passenger one. Got home, tried and it rolled up about 1/2 inch. Waited a few minutes, turned on car tried again, and it rolled up about 3 inches. Waited a few more minutes, turned the car on again, and it rolled up like nothing was wrong.

Checked the driver side and it works fine, so I don't think it's battery related, plus I just had a new alternator installed (I was picking the car up from the garage when this happened). I had just charged the battery before dropping it off, so I'm thinking it's related to switch/wiring for the window. Oh, and both the driver's side and passenger side switches acted the same way, so is it maybe the motor?

Ed

It is most likely the front passenger window motor and regulator that is going out. What you are experiencing is a common symptom. It generally needs to be replaced as a unit.

Mike

Hey Mike, where is the regulator, and what does it look like? I know I'm getting power at the motor, and when I run a jumper from the battery to the window motor, the window will go up and down, so I'm assuming the motor is good. Is there a way to test the regulator?
Thanks

And does the front regulator control the rear window also? I'm having the same issue with both pass. side windows.

> The "regulator" of the window regulator assembly is the steel guides/tracks the window rides up and down on and the cables, or in your case, a cantilevered X contraption (see pics in link) and gearing the motor drives to move the window up and down the guides. Each window has it's own "regulator" and motor. The two combine into an assembly called the window regulator assembly or just window regulator. Here is an example of Camry window regulator assemblies: http://www.1aauto.com/1A/WindowRegulators/Toyota/Camry/-/-/1998 Just click on the pictures to blow them up.

> If you are seeing power (full specified power) at the motor connector when switched in both directions, yet the motor doesn't move when commanded, the motor is toast. (toast meaning weak)

Edited 15 Sept

But if the motor was "toast", I wouldn't think it would work at all. If I run jumpers off the battery to the motor wire, the window will raise or lower depending on how I attach the jumpers to the motor wiring harness. So it has power at the motor when you use the up/down switch, and the motor works, but it won't actually roll up. Same thing with the back window....

But if the motor was "toast", I wouldn't think it would work at all. If I run jumpers off the battery to the motor wire, the window will raise or lower depending on how I attach the jumpers to the motor wiring harness. So it has power at the motor when you use the up/down switch, and the motor works, but it won't actually roll up. Same thing with the back window....

If I am understanding you, your regulator works fine when you apply 12VDC directly to it. Also, your test light shows voltage to the regulator when you hit the switch but the window will only go down and not up. The only thing I can think of is your switch contacts are corroded or somehow affected in a way that it has high resistance. So your test light is showing voltage but it isn't enough to handle the extra load of lifting the window. You need to get hold of a VOM and measure the actual voltage at the regulator motor and/or resistance of the switch. Looks like you need a new switch unless you can clean-up the contacts on the existing one.

While I haven't seen it happen in your Generation of Camry (Gen IV: 1997-2001), it has been a prevalent problem on Gen III Camrys where the driver's side wiring harness develops breaks in the wires in the section betweent the door and body due to fatigue. If your car has alot of miles or mainly used for short trips, all the door opening/closing causes the wiring to fatigue and eventually break. And since the driver's door also has controls for the other windows, the wires that control them are also in that harness and can also break.

You will have to either splice new wire sections in where they are broken or buy a new or good used harness. if multiple wires are broken, you might stagger the splices so that the connections aren't right next to each other, making the harness section too fat for the loom it goes into.

Good luck!

I just noticed that I had put '99 in the first post, its a '92, sorry. I'm working on getting a tester, and that will help answer the question of what kind of power I have at the switch. I'm thinking that the motor is fine, and I'm dealing with a switch or wiring issue, so I'm going to try and trace the wires from the drivers side to the pass side control. Unfortunately, my haynes manual doesn't show the window controls in the electrical schematic. I did replace the drivers side window control mechanism but that didn't change anything. I'll try to pick up a pass side front and rear window switch this weekend and see if those fix the problem.

Then it's a Gen III...definitely check the driver's door harness.

With one hand hold the window button up or down and move the door in & out. With the other, hold the rubber section of the wiring harness between the door and body and pinch/roll it between your fingers. If you get intermittent operation of the window, you found the break. Alot faster than tearing the interior panels off like I initially did.

Good luck!

Dear dylanborns,

Can you share how you resolved the window problem?

My '97 Camry developed similar issues.

Thank you for sharing this!

Well, I did a bunch of electrical tests, and didn't get it resolved, but I think its a ground issue somewhere up in the harness; as in up under the dash. I picked up another pass. side switch at pick and pull, and that didn't work either. I hooked the rear pass. switch up in the front and that also didn't work. Its been awhile, but if I remember right, the reason I think it was a ground issue was because I shoved a jumper into the back of the pass. side wiring harness "plug" while it was hooked to the switch, and hooked the other end of that jumper to a good ground and I got the window to work correct. So I don't think the issue is anywhere in any of the switches, I think I have a bad ground somewhere. Sorry I couldn't help more.

Many times it is due to fatigue of the wires in the driver's side door wiring harness at the hinge. Sometimes you can get intermittent contact by rolling the harness between your fingers and/or moving the door opened and closed.

Hope this helps!

If it is a bad ground in the harness, you can permanently wire a chassis ground from the terminal to anywhere there is clean metal and totally bypass the harness.

Hey guys,

I am having a problem with my '07 Camry Passenger window. If I push the down button it will not respond to the command :frown: unless the driver slightly pushes and quickly releases the button while the passengers still pushing down. Passengers button goes up with no problem but just needs that push start from the driver side to get it running down.

Has anyone encountered this issue and if so have you been able to find a fix?

My experience has indicated that the regulator on a given window is faulty when the switch is proven OK and the window will move with assistance or allowing the system to rest and reset.

I have a 2010 Camry XLE and the passenger window had problems like described here. Since it was under warranty I took it to the dealership and they discovered that the factory had routed the wiring harness improperly and it was wearing against the regulator. They repaired the harness and rerouted it so it would no longer be affected by the regulator. No problems since.

I too had intermittent power locks failures then finally passenger window failed. I too replaced the motor and regulator... that didn't fix it. Then I read about the fraying of wires from the door to the base when the door opens and closes. After pulling the door off (thank you 1a-auto for the youtube) and the speaker I pulled the wires through with the harness! Wow! 4 wires were cut, maybe 8 or 9 were cracked w/ wire showing, and 2 fused together. (which blew the 30A pink (hard to get to fuse)) I spliced them and crammed it back through to the kick plate, replaced fuse, All works now. But prepare for a couple hours and bloody knuckles to fix this 92-96 Camry flaw in wiring!

http://www.brookfieldpark.org/images/Camry12714.jpg