Please Help!

I have integra rear disk breaks on my 4 door, so I up graded my master cylinker to the EX model 15/16. The DX is 13/16. Before I did the rear disk swap I have to push on the break pedal hard to get my car to slow down. Aftrer I did the disk swap I still hade the same proplem. and now after I swap my MC for the EX one. I can even lock up my breaks when I put the pedal to the floor. Is my booster assembly no good? Is they a diff for the DX/EX booster assembly? Please Help, I have no breaks.

maybe try checking your brake fluid? I know its simple but many times the simplest things are overlooked ;)

make sure you bleed the brakes too.

The brake fluid if full and The shop bleed the brakes too. I am going to see them on Tuesday. What If they used the wrong kind of break fluid, what would that do? Where can I find out the diff between the DX/EX booster assembly?

The most common reason for brakes to go to the floor is lack of/improper bleeding.
I use a piece of 3/8s vacuum hose about three feet long and a little jar with a hole cut in the lid just barely big enough for the vacuum hose to go through.
Pour about an inch of clean brake fluid in the jar. Jam the hose in the hole in the lid, and make sure the bottom of the hose is close to the bottom of the jar, underneath the fluid level of the brake fluid.
Put your wrench (10mm for the front, 5/16 for the rear) on the valve. Put the hose on the nipple. Open the valve about a quarter to a half a turn.
Make sure the jar isn't going to flop over when you get in the car, and make sure the hose is on the nipple good.
Take the cap off of the master cylinder. Make sure there's plenty of fluid.
Get inside, and pump the brake a couple of times, holding it to the floor on the last pump. Get out. Pour more fluid in the reservoir. Pump a few and hold again. Get out, close the valve. You have to leave the wrench on the valve while you are pumping and holding.
The manual says to start with the back right wheel, then go to the front left wheel, then the back left, and then the front right.
You'll need to check the fluid and add some in between each little pumping session. If you ever let the master cylinder run dry, you have to start all over again, you'll just be pumping air.
If someone's helping you, they'll see some bubbles come out of the hose into the jar at some point.
Make sure you close the valves properly, but don't apply too much pressure when you're tightening them.
When you get done, the brake pedal should be rock-hard. No squishy or spongey feeling AT ALL!
Good luck
Flunky
PS-If your hose keeps slipping of the nipple, then you'll need the help of a second person who can follow instructions. If your hose is slipping off the nipple, post again and I'll give you that procedure.
PPS-DON'T DRIVE THAT CAR!!! Not until you have a rock-hard brake pedal, not to the store, not to the shop, not even out of the driveway!

from what i've read its a really bad idea to drop your pedal all the way to the floor... since the pedal never goes that far in normal driving there may be crud build up that can damage your seals and cause internal leaking...

Originally posted by jeef
from what i've read its a really bad idea to drop your pedal all the way to the floor... since the pedal never goes that far in normal driving there may be crud build up that can damage your seals and cause internal leaking...

yes, dont go all the way to the floor. most people i've heard put like a brick or piece of wood underneath the pedal so it doesnt go all the way

You really need 2 people to bleed the brakes. Well, its a LOT easier if you have a friend.

I just swapped a master cylynder in my Girl's integra. I think your problem is definitely related to air in the brake system. If you get air stuck in the system when doing the master cylynder, you pretty much have to go to all 4 calipers and bleed the system.

Bleeding brakes is a fundamental routine, that even a new mechanic should know and understand. If your shop can't handle this job, then I'd say go elsewhere.

The jar method I mentioned above is especially useful, if like me you are out in the middle of nowhere, your car won't move, and have no one to help you.
The jar method also helps keep brake fluid from spraying all over the place.
I agree, every mechanic or Honda enthusiast should be able to bleed his own brakes. 'Cause it's the same on every car I've ever worked on.
Flunky
PS-I hadn't heard that about not taking the brake all the way to the floor. Thanks. Another trick I discovered is that if there is air in the master cylinder, it'll never bleed properly. Once in a great while, you have to bleed the master cylinder first, although I've never had to do this on a Honda. You run a hose from the output back into the reservoir with the cap off. Maybe Honda master cylinders don't have this problem.

Thanks for all you input. I got my car back to day, and they are a little better then the the fist try. but they don't feal any better with the new EX MC form the old DX MC. the brake pedal should be rock-hard. No squishy or spongey feeling AT ALL! they are no even close to being rock hard.
If I have a New Master cylinder,Rotors,Pads,and break lines what could be wrong with my breaks? Does anyone know anything about tightening some thing with you pedel? A bolt or screw or something? Do you thing it is my booster assembley? I did not have good breaks befor I change over to rear disks, I dont know what else I could change.

I'm mystified. It sounds like you've got all the right stuff for this to be working right. Everything I've read says you should have about 15% better braking power than your original system.
When you step on that pedal, can you feel the pedal go down a bit before the brakes actually start to brake?
That's the 'spongey' feeling I was talking about, and it happens when there's air in the brake lines. Brake fluid is very, very dense, so when you stomp on the pedal, it doesn't compress. Air bubbles in the line do compress, so those air bubbles have to compress before the brakes can do their job.
Makes for a slight delay and the 'sponge' feeling.
No, pedal adjustment is not the answer.
Flunky
PS-Glad you're on the road. I'd be gladder if you had that rock-hard brake pedal, though...

When I changed over to my new master cylinder my old one have some green slime in it, So you thing that my lines have thing green stuff all in it? Can you get some thing to clean you lines? Thanks for the help.

Usually when you bleed the brakes it has the side effect of pumping all the old brake fluid out and replacing it with new stuff.
That's as clean as those lines are going to get.
Flunky