Dart with TPI 305?

I am a Ford guy, but I have recieved a 305ci longblock. There is also a Dart(unsure of year) for sale around my town. It is in pretty good shape, and I was wondering if I bought the Dart, bought TPI from a junkyard, and installed it on the 305, then put the 305 in the Dart, if that Dart would really squeal, or if it would be kinda doggy? Any help, comments facts, anything would be appreciated.
Thanks

Huh? 305 is chevy, Dodge makes the Dart.

Yes, I know that Chevy makes the 305, but I was just wondering if I got it to fit, if it would really scream.

Originally posted by 68 Stang
Yes, I know that Chevy makes the 305, but I was just wondering if I got it to fit, if it would really scream.

Well, I still don't know why you would want to do that. But anyway, it would really suck. Those 305's only have like 200 HP, if that. It would move OK but it will not be fast by any stretch of imagination. If you want speed get a 340, or even a 360 is good. And it is possible to put a SBC in a Mopar, but the 305 would just be not worth it.

I am sure you can put the egine in there, but I can't say it will be fast. It is not a great engine for going fast in really any car. I would suggest the 340ci for the Dart. That is one potent little engine.

Thanks, glad I didn't waste my time with it.:)

My friend and neighbor bought a '71 Chevelle with a 305. At first, he was trying to tune it and bore it out, but he couldn't squeeze to many horses out of it. He unfortunately did waste some time and money with it. He ditched it and got a 350 after not too long. I know your decision is made, just thought I would add that little bit of info.

Your decision has already been made (and quite wisely I might add) but even if you dropped a good 318 in that Dart, it would really move! Darts are light cars, so it won't take much to power them. Don't underestimate a well built 318. They're common to find (unlike the 340). The key is to have some good heads on the 318, along with a good 4 barrel intake, cam, and headers....
I personally have built a few 318 engines that would blow away bigger motors. Start with the basic rebuild, have the crank turned down with new bearings (specify to the crank machinist that you want "racing" tolerances) Hi-volume oil pump, good timing set, Purple Shaft cam in the 270-280 range, and most importantly.....360 "J" casting heads! These stock heads outflow the 318 stock heads by far, and bolt right on. (do a little porting if you'd like and then whoohoo!) Have your machinist take a SLIGHT cut on the heads to bring the combustion chamber to 318 specs. These such motors I built had 7200 rpm capabilities with approximately 375-400 hp! And they took years and years of beating with no breakdowns.

Keep your Mopar all Mopar, Gm all Gm, Ford all Ford, etc. and everyone including yourself will be happiest in the long run!

yeah those tpi engines never had much go in em and ya gm in a gm

Originally posted by RaspinAspen
These such motors I built had 7200 rpm capabilities with approximately 375-400 hp! And they took years and years of beating with no breakdowns.


With stock 318 rods? They are pretty weak, I've heard they only handle like 300 HP.:confused:

And the stock CAST crank turning 7200?

ya at 7000 those rods would have probably poked there way out of the block :iceslolan

Originally posted by badassgremlin
ya at 7000 those rods would have probably poked there way out of the block :iceslolan

Thats what I thought:bloated:

I got lucky and started with a steel crank from an old truck motor. The rods held out fine.....I might have overestimated the hp figure a bit though, but about 350 seems right.
7200 rpm? Yep. I built this motor about 7 years ago. After a proper break-in period, it would do it. I ran it hard for a few years, then sold the car. The motor changed hands about 3 more times, with each new owner beating the crap out of it! And, suffice to say, the latest owner still has it, still beats the hell out of it, and won't get rid of it. It IS getting a bit tired now, though, and he wants to have it rebuilt anyway. Guess who he called to do it.........:wink:

lol coo

Originally posted by RaspinAspen
I got lucky and started with a steel crank from an old truck motor. The rods held out fine.....I might have overestimated the hp figure a bit though, but about 350 seems right.
7200 rpm? Yep. I built this motor about 7 years ago. After a proper break-in period, it would do it. I ran it hard for a few years, then sold the car. The motor changed hands about 3 more times, with each new owner beating the crap out of it! And, suffice to say, the latest owner still has it, still beats the hell out of it, and won't get rid of it. It IS getting a bit tired now, though, and he wants to have it rebuilt anyway. Guess who he called to do it.........:wink:

The steel crank is what held that together. What year block and rods where these? And did you use hydraulic lifter cam?

Gawd, its been so long ago........I think I remember the entire short block was a '71 or '72. Standard issue hardware inside except the special mains studs for the windage tray, reconditioned and shot peened rods, forged crank turned down with the clearances on the loose end, TriMetal bearings, etc. Stock replacement pistons .030 over advertised as 9:1 comp, flycut for the extra valve clearance. Didn't need it, but I wanted it to be safe)I used an Edelbrock Torker intake ported slightly and polished on the inside. 2 inch spacer that adapted the squarebore intake to the spreadbore Carter Thermoquad that I had plucked off my 440 project motor :spit: . (had to cut a hole and fabricate a hoodscoop by now)The 'J' heads I ported a bit, not too radical there. The cam was Purple Shaft 296/.557 solid lifter cam installed "straight up". The mechanical rockers I scabbed off an old 273. Headers were bought used at a swap meet, and had no name on them I could see (the seller didn't know what brand they were either! the price was right though and they fit perfectly) Valve springs I got from a racer buddy, don't recall the specs on those. Melling Hi-Volume oil pump and Mopar Performance windage tray. I painted the block Hemi Orange (good for an extra 20 hp I hear....jk :wink:) My total costs? Less than $1000. It pays to have friends who are racers, machinists, salvage yard owners, etc.

In retrospect, the motor did NOT need to be revved that high, and it WAS pretty stupid to try. Nor am I recommending it. It seemed to peak power about 5500 or so. But I did it more than twice just because it would! After that I kept it more sane and only beat on it to 6,000. I can't say the next owners' were sane about it though. :wink:

Ahh yes, I happen to have a '65 273 solid cam in my truck! Just got it running last week in fact! Yup it has steel crank and rods from the factory, but I had to replace the old rockers. I used aluminum roller rockers. I wanted something different to put in my truck(77 Dodge Power Wagon) everybody puts in a 360 or 318. I wanted a 392 HEMI (not in the budget:rolleyes: ) so I found a 273 at the Chrysler show in Carlisle, PA. It has about 325 HP, and 340 Ft/lbs of torque. Not bad for 280 CID(.040 overbore).
I'll include a pic that I took yesterday!

Very nice! Btw, the 318 I was talking about was in a '78 Plymouth Volare Roadrunner. That lousey 7 1/4 axle didn't have a prayer.....I went with a 8 3/4 with 3.91 gears.

How do I go about posting a pic of my current ride?

pw man i know a palce where u can get a blown 392 for just over 8 grand :iceslolan

Originally posted by RaspinAspen

How do I go about posting a pic of my current ride?

on reply see that little box that says attch file? click browse and find the pick and load it:smile:

Originally posted by badassgremlin
pw man i know a palce where u can get a blown 392 for just over 8 grand :iceslolan
Yeah thats a little over budget. LOL.
Plus the reinforcement I would have to do to my drivetrain would be insane. It's just a half ton truck, but it is beefy for a half ton.
I am changing to 3.91 gears soon, I have 3.21's in now. I can do 65 in first gear:bigthumb:

Originally posted by badassgremlin


on reply see that little box that says attch file? click browse and find the pick and load it:smile:

Ok I just have to resize the pic down to fit in with the size limitations....

Here 'tis........

OMG thats a big pic! I guess I need to make a thumbnail size pic...:comprage1 How about I email the pic to someone who knows what they're doing on a pc, and they can repost it for me.....

It's not that big, looks sweet! What engine?

Slant 6 car .....that will get changed to either a 360 or right to a big block. :biggrin: I'll be stripping the car down this winter for some minor bodywork and new paint. Its going on a rotiserrie for all the work. Also its getting the 9 1/4 rear with 3.55/Sure Grip that I already have for it. Subframe connectors that I'll fabricate, Challenger T/A hood scoop, little here and little there, etc. I replaced the bench seat with the buckets from my wrecked Dart Swinger, just picked up a floorshift version steering column to get rid of the granny shifter a few days ago. I had the louvers and spoiler already. Tires and rims came from the Swinger also. I painted the stripes about 4 weeks ago, using a 1/18 scale die cast model of a Challenger T/A as a guide.

I'm making this into a "one-of-none" car, loosely based on the Challenger T/A. So that's why I'm listing it as a '79 Dodge Aspen T/A. Sort of an Aspen R/T clone with a few twists! :boink: Still, it runs great and still hauls butt even with the Leaning Tower of Power under the hood. Hey, I paid $300 for this car about 2 months ago! :spit: I live in Wisconsin, so I never see another daily driver F body that isn't a total rust bucket...this one is 99% rust-free, so its worth the time and effort to fix 'er up more! Thanx for your interest!

Sounds like it's gonna be pretty sweet.
Why the 9.25 rear? If you are replacing it why not go with the 8 3/4?

Originally posted by PWMAN
Sounds like it's gonna be pretty sweet.
Why the 9.25 rear? If you are replacing it why not go with the 8 3/4?

Call it "cost-effectiveness".........I happen to already have a complete 9 1/4 rear with the gears I want AND the Sure-Grip, so I'm much farther ahead to use that, instead of forking over all the green for the complete 8 3/4. What did I spend for this particular complete and wear-free ready-to-bolt-in-an-F body axle? $50 !!!! (Racer friends again) :biggrin:

Don't overlook the 9 1/4 axles, they're found everywhere, cheap to buy, are still being produced, and are plenty strong for any car not using slicks. (then you'd need aftermarket axles with the C-clip Eliminator option....still cheaper than the 8 3/4 setup) 8 3/4 rear axles are becoming scarce, the parts are all worn out already from 30+ years of use/abuse forcing you to buy NEW parts, which btw will dent your wallet pretty darn hard. I went this route with the '78 RR I had.......never again. $1300 total costs for a rear axle was tough to swallow, and since the day after I got it put in the RR, I could not justify the costs in anyway.

I didn't know they made c-clip eliminators for the 9.25, where do you get them?
I have a 9.25 in my truck, and the car I used to drive too-77 Chrysler Newport with a 440.
But I am about to rebuild the rear in my truck and I would be interested in a C-clip eliminator but I didn't know who made them.:confused:

Well, I don't have C-clip Eliminators for my 9.25 and feel that I really won't need them. But I believe Moser Engineering(?) has something about that. Something about using 8.75 bearings, axle retainers, etc. Don't quote me for sure on that, though if you're a racer, it would be worth checking into. Do a search on rear axle specialists, like Currie, Moser,etc. I saw it somewhere but I'm just can't remember where!

Originally posted by RaspinAspen

Keep your Mopar all Mopar, Gm all Gm, Ford all Ford!

I'd have to agree.

Keep the engine and the body from the same manufacturer. A well built 305 would certainly do beter in a NOVA, than a Dart. A well built 318 or 360 would be the ticket for the dart.:bigthumb:

Frank

Originally posted by RaspinAspen
Well, I don't have C-clip Eliminators for my 9.25 and feel that I really won't need them. But I believe Moser Engineering(?) has something about that. Something about using 8.75 bearings, axle retainers, etc. Don't quote me for sure on that, though if you're a racer, it would be worth checking into. Do a search on rear axle specialists, like Currie, Moser,etc. I saw it somewhere but I'm just can't remember where!

Oh, well I don't want to get into axle changing and all that stuff. That gets expensive like you said. I'll stick with the 3.90 geared 9.25 sure-grip then.
Thanks

Originally posted by frankendart


I'd have to agree.

Keep the engine and the body from the same manufacturer. A well built 305 would certainly do beter in a NOVA, than a Dart. A well built 318 or 360 would be the ticket for the dart.:bigthumb:

Frank

Right. However, I was THIS close to dropping a built 440/727 into an '82 Firebird Trans Am :spit: I had about 5 years ago. But then the resale value would have been nearly worthless. (I would have had fun though! At least until the rear axle exploded and the T-top car would have twisted nearly in half anyway) All the Mopar people would say "...wasted a good 440 on a GM.." and all the GM folks would've said "....ruined a good car...." So, I just built a 350 Chevy for it and sent it on its merry way, and nobody complained.

well, ive got a 305 and with the proper modifications itll out strip most cars out there... ever think of pucnhing it out or slaping in a 400 crank and ditching all stock parts. with those simple modifications you might as well just tell people you have a 350 under the hood.... btw just a little f.y.i., you can get a whoping 500 hp out of a little 305, beleive it or not but youll know when i flash past you........ hehe, k but yeah you can turn a 305 into a 350. but why do all that when you can just get a 350.... well why fix up a 350 when you can get a 383. you can get as much hp out of a 350 as you can with a 383... but 305 last a lot longer then anything out there, proven fact.... some guy has a camero with over 500,000 miles on it with its original 305 in it, everything is original inside the motor, only thing replaced was the starter and water pump just the small things that go out no matter how good you treat your baby.... oh and oh and PWMAN... shut up, if that man manages to put that motor in the Dart.... all he has to do is spend just a little money and he has to know what hes doing and that damn thing will blow the doors off anything with no problem

well, ive got a 305 and with the proper modifications itll out strip most cars out there... ever think of pucnhing it out or slaping in a 400 crank and ditching all stock parts. with those simple modifications you might as well just tell people you have a 350 under the hood.... btw just a little f.y.i., you can get a whoping 500 hp out of a little 305, beleive it or not but youll know when i flash past you........ hehe, k but yeah you can turn a 305 into a 350. but why do all that when you can just get a 350.... well why fix up a 350 when you can get a 383. you can get as much hp out of a 350 as you can with a 383... but 305 last a lot longer then anything out there, proven fact.... some guy has a camero with over 500,000 miles on it with its original 305 in it, everything is original inside the motor, only thing replaced was the starter and water pump just the small things that go out no matter how good you treat your baby.... oh and oh and PWMAN... shut up, if that man manages to put that motor in the Dart.... all he has to do is spend just a little money and he has to know what hes doing and that damn thing will blow the doors off anything with no problem

LOL, you are about as crooked as an IRS agent buddy.
Sticking a 400 crank into a 305 is pretty dumb, with .030 over you get a wopping 334 cubic inches. Here's the problem, a small cubic inch motor's nature is to rev high. So, you have a huge stroke, and an engine you have to rev the piss out of. Can you say bottom end problems? Ventilating the block with a connecting rod? You would have to put so much money into the bottom end, it would be most cost effective to go with a 340 or 360 mopar. Hell, it would be cheaper to stroke a 360, and get 408 CID small block chrysler.
Ahh the other problem is you are limited on heads, I would be surprised if you could fit 1.94/1.60 valves. Where as the engines with 4'' bore can fit 2.08/1.65 valves. Now I know your argument would be to knotch the cylinder heads, OK well add that to the $$$ list that is already insane to begin with.
Not to mention all the money it would cost to fabricate the K member to get a SBC to fit in there. Add that, plus what it would cost to beef up a 305/334 to 500 HP, and you could have a 600 horse 408 CID small block chrysler(not to mention 550 ft/lbs) and money left over too.
It will certainly not ''blow the doors off anything''. Even if you stroked the 305 to the 334 CID, you might get 450 ft/lbs out of it with 500 HP. If you kept it a 305 you might have 400 ft/lbs with 500 HP. ooooooo :loser:

you know, thats kinda odd that a 305 has nothing in it.... did you know they sometimes put the 305 into drag cars..... what and i think some of them top out over 200mph, dont argue with that one, i used to watch my dad build the dang things for then.... oh and why did they put that "doggy" motor in that, well to tell you the truth, its small light and theres a lot you can do to it. not to mention itll take a pretty good beating. and for torque, im gunna be putting that 305 in my chevy 4x4 and 400 ft/lbs is pretty good so im not worried about that.... though when it comes the day my friend with a 92 firechicken opps i mean firebird wants to race me, ill blow him off the road with the same motor... he doesnt beleive it but i guess he will when im a mile down the road and hes sitin in my dust. but i guess it helps that my truck is packing 4/11 gears heavy duty pullin gears i might add though you can get better, he may beat me off the line but i sure as hell am gunna go flashin past shortly after.... oh and for all this b.s. about your stupid dodge and chryler motor:disappoin:loser: ..... dude, they suck, if you got a himi and i mean an old himi not this new crap dodge is putting out then come talkin to me about powerful motor, otherwise move aside and watch me and my 305 go by cause itll have more power then what you speak of. oh and here for a little humor.... heres what ill give for your dodge crap :2cents:......just to see it all melted down and shiped to a pop can factory :lol:

you know, thats kinda odd that a 305 has nothing in it.... did you know they sometimes put the 305 into drag cars..... what and i think some of them top out over 200mph, dont argue with that one, i used to watch my dad build the dang things for then.... oh and why did they put that "doggy" motor in that, well to tell you the truth, its small light and theres a lot you can do to it. not to mention itll take a pretty good beating. and for torque, im gunna be putting that 305 in my chevy 4x4 and 400 ft/lbs is pretty good so im not worried about that.... though when it comes the day my friend with a 92 firechicken opps i mean firebird wants to race me, ill blow him off the road with the same motor... he doesnt beleive it but i guess he will when im a mile down the road and hes sitin in my dust. but i guess it helps that my truck is packing 4/11 gears heavy duty pullin gears i might add though you can get better, he may beat me off the line but i sure as hell am gunna go flashin past shortly after.... oh and for all this b.s. about your stupid dodge and chryler motor:disappoin:loser: ..... dude, they suck, if you got a himi and i mean an old himi not this new crap dodge is putting out then come talkin to me about powerful motor, otherwise move aside and watch me and my 305 go by cause itll have more power then what you speak of. oh and here for a little humor.... heres what ill give for your dodge crap :2cents:......just to see it all melted down and shiped to a pop can factory :lol:

This made for some amusing reading. LOL

So if you are putting this in a truck, what cam are you using? Heads? Valve sizes?

ooooooo so you can beat a stock 305 firebird that has 170 HP. :loser:

Oh yeah it's HEMI not HIMI moron :banghead:

Oh and engines are made cast iron not aluminum like soda cans :icon16:

Look, I never said the 305 was a piece of crap OK. I am saying that a 305 into a MOPAR would be more trouble than what it's worth. It's called cost effectiveness, and since you are only 16 you have no idea the true meaning of that because daddy gives you everything. Do you even have a job? Buying your own vehicles and parts? I don't think so because if you did there would be no way you would spend the money to get 400 HP out of a 305 when for the same price you can get 600 out of a 400 CID. You don't know because you don't have to buy the parts.
You can also get 500 HP out of a 1.8L Honda, but it costs (atleast)twice as much as getting 500 HP out of a 350.

Look, I never said the 305 was a piece of crap OK. I am saying that a 305 into a MOPAR would be more trouble than what it's worth. It's called cost effectiveness, and since you are only 16 you have no idea the true meaning of that because daddy gives you everything. Do you even have a job? Buying your own vehicles and parts? I don't think so because if you did there would be no way you would spend the money to get 400 HP out of a 305 when for the same price you can get 600 out of a 400 CID. You don't know because you don't have to buy the parts.
You can also get 500 HP out of a 1.8L Honda, but it costs (atleast)twice as much as getting 500 HP out of a 350.

well, just a little inside scoop.... i happen to work harder then any one i know with a manual labor job making (though its not a lot but it is for a 16 y/o kid) $10 and no daddy isnt giving me crap, i worked off that motor and im working off the truck. and another thing, with $500 i can have that motor with my 400hp. trust me, daddies a mechanic and his daddy is a mechanic too oh and my uncle frank is a mechanic oh and not to mention a racing vet. (you know, the ones with the lifetime passes to any and every track at any seat) i dunno, i guess your right. a 16 y/o kid born around motors, motors, and more motors all spiffed up by 3 insane men who live off their work wouldn’t know jack crap would he. you know for a 16 y/o kid having built his first motor when i was 13 (ford 302 sitting in my garage with over 500 hp and over 4,500 in parts, not parts out of a parts store either, specially made and ordered from nascar.... oh inside scoop on that, its the 302 they banned cause Chevy and dodge could keep up with it) and dude, why the hell would i want to spend money on a dodge or Honda motor..... im going for Chevy, Dodge and Honda wont fit. and for about 2,500 you can get about 700hp out a 350, but it wouldn’t be a 350, itd be a 355. so all i have to say is that i busted my ass to get my stuff, daddy has yet to give me anything for a car. :loser:

well, just a little inside scoop.... i happen to work harder then any one i know with a manual labor job making (though its not a lot but it is for a 16 y/o kid) $10 and no daddy isnt giving me crap, i worked off that motor and im working off the truck. and another thing, with $500 i can have that motor with my 400hp. trust me, daddies a mechanic and his daddy is a mechanic too oh and my uncle frank is a mechanic oh and not to mention a racing vet. (you know, the ones with the lifetime passes to any and every track at any seat) i dunno, i guess your right. a 16 y/o kid born around motors, motors, and more motors all spiffed up by 3 insane men who live off their work wouldn’t know jack crap would he. you know for a 16 y/o kid having built his first motor when i was 13 (ford 302 sitting in my garage with over 500 hp and over 4,500 in parts, not parts out of a parts store either, specially made and ordered from nascar.... oh inside scoop on that, its the 302 they banned cause Chevy and dodge could keep up with it) and dude, why the hell would i want to spend money on a dodge or Honda motor..... im going for Chevy, Dodge and Honda wont fit. and for about 2,500 you can get about 700hp out a 350, but it wouldn’t be a 350, itd be a 355. so all i have to say is that i busted my ass to get my stuff, daddy has yet to give me anything for a car. :loser:

Well I'm glad to here that, seriously.

The dodge and Honda thing was just an example OK. ''Dodge and Honda won't fit'' - No kidding thats why I suggested to the starter of the thread not to put a chevy in a dodge! Even if he said 383 stroker making 500 HP my opinion would have been the same.
It doesn't have to be a 355. You can keep the bore standard, just rehone it.

and another thing, with $500 i can have that motor with my 400hp.

Again I say sure you can get 400 HP, no problem. But to get that much HP you are going to sacrifice torque(bad for a truck)because you are going to need a good size cam.

oh thought a head on that one, im on the look out. dad says he knows what to do, and hounestly, how musch torque do you really think will come out of that with 400hp i hope decent... :sly:

wait, what is the biggest cam i can get for really good torque? i mean if i get the biggest one made i should be fine right???

oh thought a head on that one, im on the look out. dad says he knows what to do, and hounestly, how musch torque do you really think will come out of that with 400hp i hope decent... :sly:


Maybe 375 ft/lbs.

As for the cam, well are you going to run a hydraulic, solid, or roller cam?

For a hydraulic, the best cam for torque would be made by comp cams, Dual Energy series, the 255DEH(cam grind #)part number 12-207-2 which as a split duration of 203/[email protected]'' and lift of .421/.451". Now a good combo for HP and torque would be the next step up in the dual energy series the 265DEH which has 211/221 [email protected]'' and .442/.462. You will have to have REALLY good heads and good compression(9.5:1) to get 400 HP with good torque out of a hydraulic cam.
The best idea would be to go to a hydraulic roller cam, they have good torque and you can run more duration and get more power but still have torque unlike a regular hydraulic.
Comp cams makes retro-fit roller cams in their Extreme Energy series. A decent one for a good combo of torque and HP would be the XR270HR part number 12-422-8 and it has 218/224 duration and .495/.502 lift.

OK I was plugging stuff in my desktop dyno. All these results are with mild porting(too much takes away low end torque and throttle response), 9.5:1 compression, 1.94/1.60 valves, dual plane intake, 600 CFM carb, and open headers.
Again I'm not sure if a 1.94 valve will fit. You might only be able to fit a 1.88 or 1.84 intake valve. Unless of course you bore knotch.
Now by adding a 400 crank, add 30 ft/lbs to these figures. These figures are just with stock stroke and .030 overbore.

The first cam I mentioned, you would have 350 HP and 375 ft/lbs. Second cam, 365 HP and 370 ft lbs but at higher RPM. A mild higher stall converter would be good like the TCI Sizzler.

roller cam-380 HP and 410 ft/lbs. TCI Sizzler would do good here too, unless you put in 400 crank then stock converter would do.

So you are going to max out at 380 HP, unless you get aluminum heads and run more compression. Or more cam but your torque will definitely suffer if you go any bigger than the ones I mentioned.
Of course you could always bore knotch, run aluminum heads with 2.02/1.60 valves, 10:1 compression and you would have your 400 HP. But thats pretty expensive.

yea it will cost a lot of money but i need/ want my torque pretty badly...i want my truck to be the best at school, one thatll get up and go

wait what about the friction free roller rockers and lifters.... will those do any good cause i know for sure we have those already in the motor and im almost sure that theres a performance cam in it too....ill know on saturday when im really goin to tare into this thing

wait what about the friction free roller rockers and lifters.... will those do any good cause i know for sure we have those already in the motor and im almost sure that theres a performance cam in it too....ill know on saturday when im really goin to tare into this thing


They don't do much, maybe 5 HP at your peak.

Whay year is the motor? What vehicle is it out of?

woah 5? in the catalog and on the box it says 20-40 extra hp.... but if im corect the motor is a 88 and it was out of a camero i think and its fule injected....

WHAAAAAT? LOL I don't think so. What brand are they? Aluminum? Part #?

1.6 ratio?

You have to remember that all HP claims are going to be in the best of conditions, and probably running radical cams and making insane HP. Like for example it's easier to gain 40 HP out of an engine thats making 800, but you will NEVER get that only making 400. So 20 would be your best, and thats if you have the 1.6 ratio rockers so it increases your lift giving more HP. If you only got 1.5 ratio rockers than do not expect any more than 10-if that.

if im corect the motor is a 88 and it was out of a camero i think and its fule injected....

Hmm, those could be vortech heads with 1.94/1.50 valves. Those would be good to keep, but if you really want to make power get the Aluminum Vortech heads from JEG's. They have 2.00/1.55 valves, plus they are aluminum and you can run 10:1 compression with a mild cam. They are complete and assembled, but cost 599.99 each. But you would definitely have your 400 HP and 400 ft/lbs. Those are about the best heads you can get for a 305.

Hey I just thought of something else, an 88 should have a hydraulic roller cam from the factory! You are all set, 400 ft/lbs easy. So get the roller cam I mentioned above.

ok, the roller rockers are Harland Sharp that are on my motor are 1.65 ratio 7/16 stud part number CSP-1006 from summit magazine.... alrighty, well then i am set all set, but how much is the roller cam gunna be for my 305? and what brand....

ok, the roller rockers are Harland Sharp and the that are on my motor are 1.65 ratio 7/16 stud part number CSP-1006 from summit magazine.... alrighty, well then i am set all set, but how much is the roller cam gunna be for my 305? and what brand....

you might get 20 HP over stock from them, and thats pretty good. Just make sure you have clearance and generous valve reliefs, so you don't bend a valve or 2.

Comp Cams Xtreme 4X4 series, Grind number X4270HR and part number 08-413-8
You can get it from Summit, you just have to call them up and tell them you want to order something not in their catalog. But they can get it from Comp no problem. They will ask for part number and grind number probably.
Umm, for price I'm not really sure. Roller cams are expensive, and you can reuse your lifters. I'm guessing 200-300 for the cam, the lifters if you choose to get them will probably be another 200. Depending on how worn out your stock ones are you might not need new ones.

what if i keep my stock rockers in it? should i still sit pretty good? and thats about the price i was expecting but i think my dad can get a deal with that and i went out and saw my motor tonight and my liferters look in great condition so im safe there but i think ill let my dad do the ordering for me

what if i keep my stock rockers in it? should i still sit pretty good? and thats about the price i was expecting but i think my dad can get a deal with that and i went out and saw my motor tonight and my liferters look in great condition so im safe there but i think ill let my dad do the ordering for me

what if i keep my stock rockers in it? should i still sit pretty good? and thats about the price i was expecting but i think my dad can get a deal with that and i went out and saw my motor tonight and my liferters look in great condition so im safe there but i think ill let my dad do the ordering for me

The stock rockers will work fine.
Roller lifters usually last a good while.