1995 S10 4.3 ZR2 runs terrible

I have a really crappy idle and a constant miss it seems. Had it at the shop he said #1 cylinder had a bad plug and that the dist cap was corroded, he replaced them. It still runs like crap. I checked fuel pressure and here the wierd part. When i turn the key on the gauge runs up to 60psi and then the relay shuts down like 2 seconds after i turn the key on and it reaches 60 psi, i can here the relay click off when it does that. Then it loses all the pressure immediatley and goes down to like 20psi and slowly creeps down to 0psi. But when its running the pressure stays at about 50 to 52 psi but fluctuates when i give it the gas. I also hear junk rattleing in my exaust (maybe bad cat dunno) I checked for vacuum leaks and didnt notice any. Also can a bad brake booster leak brake fluid into my manifold if its bad? If my injection system is bad how much does it usually cost to fix it? My SES light is not on either, it may be burned out because i dont even see it lit up when i just turn the key on.

Help please, im stuck.

Many times the distributor cap is replaced needlessly due to incorrect diagnosis. The white, crystalized material on the terminals inside the cap is not corrosion. Silicone dielectric grease is added to each terminal inside, and out, of the cap when it's installed. It crystalizes when electric current passes through it. It's supposed to be there, if it's not, there's a problem.

The fuel pump comes on for 2 seconds to prime the system. If the ECM does not receive a signal for ignition, the fuel pump shuts off. What you're seeing is normal.

The fuel delivery system has a problem. Key on, engine off and cold, fuel pump running, pressure must be 58psi to 64psi. Pressure must remain above 53psi for 3 to 5 minutes after the fuel pump shuts off. The cause of your excessive leakdown can be either in the fuel tank, or in the plenum. The only way to determine where it is, without taking it apart, is to install a shut off valve in the fuel pressure line so you can isolate the pump immediately after it pressurizes the system, and watch the fuel pressure. If it drops, the leak is in the plenum. If not, the leak is in the tank.

Thanks for the quick reply,

Ok, but if its not in the tank but in the plenum then wouldnt I smell gas or see gas in my oil? I took the cover on the top of the off and all i seen was a 3 inch or so round think bolted in there, whats that piece do?

Update:

I just checked the engine oil for gas smell and yes thiere is gas smell in my engine oil. Whats that mean exactly?

Thanks for the quick reply,

Ok, but if its not in the tank but in the plenum then wouldnt I smell gas or see gas in my oil? I took the cover on the top of the off and all i seen was a 3 inch or so round think bolted in there, whats that piece do?

The round can thing will be the fuel pressure regulator.
If you still have the cover off prime up fuel pump and watch it for leaks in there.

If it is the one with fuel line hoses into the rear of intake also watch and check the plastic lines in there.
Called the Nut kit

Let us know what you find there.

There is excessive leakdown in your fuel delivery system. If the leak is in the plenum, the fuel will drain into the crankcase and dilute the oil, which will cause damage to the bearings in the engine. Check the PM I sent you.

Ok, Thanks. I will have to take the plenum off i guess and check all the parts. Can i take the plenum off and then turn the key on to activate fuel pump and see if the leaks are there?

Remove the plenum and turn the key to RUN, don't start the engine. While the fuel pump is running, check for leaks.

Ok, I took of the plenum off and turned the key on and sure enough one of the hoses is spewing fuel badly. Should i just replace the whole assy while I have it all off or just the hose? Is it easier to do the hoses or the whole assembly? Anything else I should do while i have it all apart?

Thanks

If only the line is leaking http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_Fuel-Hose-Dorman_17191011-P_2277_R%7CGRPFUELAMS_535982334___ it's very easy to replace and a bunch cheaper! Dorman part #55163 and most auto parts stores have them in stock, or can get them.

Ok, well the pictured in the link you gave shows a hose with something that looks like an injector, does it come with an injector as shown or am i seeing something else? Do you have a part # for the whole assy just in case i decide to swap out the whole assy?

Thanks

The upper one in the picture is the pressure line and has the service port in it


http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss58/cwhook/Dorman-55163-rw-50386-60414.jpg


In this picture the components are labeled:

http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss58/cwhook/LowerIntakeManifold.jpg

Do I have to take the whole unit out to replace a hose? Im sorry i just dont see how the hoses connect to the injector assy? Would it be wise to replace the inctor while im in it?

Thanks

Both lines come with the kit from Dorman, replace both of them. Disconnect both fuel lines at the rear of the intake manifold, (outside of the plenum). Then disconnect them from the injector. Replace all O rings with "fuel rated" O rings, do not reuse the old ones. Be careful not to disturb the "spider" lines as they are brittle and will they break. If they break, you'll need to replace the injector assembly.

Well, I replaced the injection unit and the 2 supply lines with brand new stuff seems to work TONS better now. Still has a small miss, but i imagine its fouled a plug or 2 I'll check that next.

Thanks for the help guys

A set of AC Delco CR43TS plugs with a gap of .045" is a good idea after a leak as bad as yours was. Change the oil and filter too. With that much fuel leakage, the oil is probably contaminated with fuel which will cause engine bearings to wear rapidly. $20 for an oil change and filter is not worth the gamble.

Yeah I changed the oil and filter before i evejn restarted it after changing out all the injection system.