97 350 vortech distributor issues/timing

Just replaced Lower intake gaskets, and I am pretty sure I have the distributor off a tooth on the cam. I marked everything but when I went to put it back together, my markes got wiped off. :runaround:

So I got the distibutor where I thought it should go and when I initially started the truck it ran perfect (to my suprize) just that the SES light came on. Code reader said P1345 (i think). Whatever it was I looked it up and found out it was cam and crank sensors out of sync or something to that effect.

So I adjusted my distributor one direction a little and the light went away. So now the truck starts great, idles awasome (after the new mpfi upgrade), has power, but it has a slight hesitation accellerating from a stop sign.

I'm thinking since the cam sensor controlls injector pulse timing that the pulses may be happening too early or late due to the distributor possibly being off one tooth and causing the hesitation/miss on initial accelleration. Sound about right?

So, In the midst of LIM gaskets, and adjusting my distributor back and forth, I stripped off one of my dist cap bolt holes. :headshake Why would they make the bottom half of the distributor plastic? I was thinking about giving one of these a shot.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BILLET-vortec-V8-5-7-350-5-0-305-7-4-454-distributor-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem335b737202QQitemZ22057 7624578QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccesso ries

Anyone ever tried it? Its billit so the bolt holes in theory should never strip out again. Plus its 60 bucks after shipping and all the ones I price out at local auto parts places run about 150.00 plus a 50.00 core charge. All of which I found are rebuilds and have blastic bases where the bolts thread into. Only question I have is, is the bas plastic for a reason? If I change it to billit alluminum, will the sparc arc to the base rather than firing the cylinder?

Another question, me thinking out loud here, but if I unplugged the cam position sensor on the truck, shouldn't that make the PCM go into a default timing setting since it lost the CKPS signal, thus allowing my to hook up a timing light and set timing to 0 degrees btdc like the older 350's? Or will the motor not even run with the cam sensor unplugged?

There really should be a way for an average joe mechanic to time their truck without having to pay the darn stealership an hour of labor to do it.

Any input?

Thanks!!!

The timing is preset and not adjustable.
You can turn the dist all day and not change timing.

The camshaft retard is the direction of the dist rotor to the plug wire terminal.
It needs to be set at or as close to 0 degrees - or + as you can get it.
Paying the repair shop 50$ is cheap compared to buying a engine capable scanner that you need to set it.

The dist you posted a link to is a good deal or some your parts places have them or the metal housings to.
The metal dist housing solves the busted dist ear problems.

When you install it do it like this.
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=51302
Then pay the 50$
Or buy or rent or borrow a engine capable scanner and check and set the camshaft retard setting.

If you still have a engine running problem check fuel pressure and secondary ign.
Post back how it goes.

Sounds good, Thank You!

I ordered that distributor because I called around to all my auto parts places and when I mentioned an upgraded metal distributor base, some guy's didn't even bother to go look at their stock before saying no. Its ok though because $60.00 vs $150.00+ is a no brainer even if I have to wait for one to ship.

Once I get it in, I'll report back on the hesitation issue. Thanks!