95 Caprice SW change distributor help (pulley removal)

I need help with a 1995 Chevy Caprice Classic Station Wagon
5.7 L eng A/C with 130,000 miles

I'm in the process of replacing a bad water pump.
Since I have it off and now partial access to the distributor
(OptiSpark?) I figure I should perform service on the
distributor. The cap and rotor have never been changed.
Some type of small torx bolts hold the distributor
to the engine.


Problem for me. Just not understanding how to proceed.

Two belts; two pulleys on the crankshaft hub.
First (front) pulley drives only the cooling fan and extends
out about 3" from the second pulley. The face is recessed
that 3" and has six bolts thru the face. Three smaller bolts
attach to a flange to hold this pulley on the crankshaft hub.

Second pulley is the harmonic balancer and it drives the
the second belt - a serpentine belt for the accessories.
The three larger bolts attach thru the face (actually cutouts)
to another flange on the hub. [The cutouts allow the
three larger bolt heads thru the face.]

All six bolts are removed. Can't remove the first
pulley but can slide harmonic balancer alitle just
not enough to access the distributor bolts.

The first pulley needs to be pulled off. Then the
harmonic balancer can be easily removed. The Haynes
Manual depicts the 1993 two pulleys removals method.
That's not this setup. My first pulley won't
just come off with the bolts out like in 1993 or
earlier. It is also pressed on the hub (or shaft).

So this pulley needs to come off.
With a harmonic balancer puller?
The crankshaft bolt is still in place.
does that need to come off first?

The hub stays on? Correct?

I can't seem to wrap my head around this as to
which of the holes to use and just how to proceed.
I've only done one H.B. removal on a Chevy Lumina
and that was easy.

Then I'm worried about finding TDC before I remove
too much.

This section of the Haynes Manual mentions it's
importance in 1993 or earlier. Doesn't talk about
it in 1994 or later.

If I'm just removing the cap and rotor how important
is TDC?

I'm just transferring my old rotor position to the
new rotor? [It's been a while since I've done
this. Back when distribs. sat on top of engines]

But if I need to replace the distributor then
it is!

How hard is it to remove the distributor cap?
I see the two recessed bolts in the cap.

Is the edge of the cap sealed with anything?


Oh, what about quality of aftermarket parts.
Any big difference? This isn't something
one wants to do any time soon. But the
cost of OEM !!!

If you look this up on the internet search you will find many pictures and details on removing this water pump and replacing the cap/rotor, and if necessary the distributor..

the small screws are inverted torx screws..some have used a screw out of the throttle body in a pair of vice grips then using the head to remove these odd screws on cap ..yes there is a gasket and this is important because it must seal tightly to keep mositure and dirt out..

since you have the heavy duty cooling system with belt driven fans I am not sure how to proceed on the removal ...for distributor access..rotate the engine so that the crank has the arrow point up ..clean and lube the crankshaft end to help pull off the pulley/harmonic balancer and mark first so it is put back as it was..timing is not an issue ...timing is all controlled by the electronics...the opti contols the timing to a very close amount for max performance...it is optical very fast reacting , accurate ..

cap/rotor kits are about 180.00 or so...sealing the replacement is most important ...

Thanks for your reply.

I have been researching it and the 4 yr old post entitled
"1994 LT1 caprice problems" offered some great links and info.

I may have a solution to the pulley problem. I was a parts
store whining about pullers to the counter help when a young
kid overheard me. He asked if it was the Caprice/optispark/LT1/
2 belts, etc.

I showed him some pulley photos I took w/ a cell phone.

He said that they had worked on them and a lot PB Blaster
and some banging of the front pulley should do the trick.

I'll see.
***


Some stores have aftermarket Opti caps+rotor kits. It helps to see the parts up close. Some stores also seem to make a distinction about
their kits for use without external oil coolers. What? Why would that
matter? I have an external oli cooler.

later........

Thanks for your reply.


***


Some stores have aftermarket Opti caps+rotor kits. It helps to see the parts up close. Some stores also seem to make a distinction about
their kits for use without external oil coolers. What? Why would that
matter? I have an external oli cooler.

later........

the 96 impala I own has oil cooler ..I have no idea why you have found this to be a factor because the LT1 engine uses the same cap unless it was a 1994 version with out the cap venting..the cap venting would be an issue as you would need to modify your non vented to a vented ..this will make it last longer ..so since you have a 1995 I would say you have a vented ...

what manufacturer makes this distinction ? I want to check this out ..

At PEP Boys the guy brought up the pc screen. It showed their house? brand knockoff for $119. It was the only one in stock. Looked like all the other C+R kits. He didn't know why it specified "w/o external oil cooler".

The other kit (not in stock) was for more $$. No such distinction on it's description.

I looked at the first kit. Looked like the same Auto Zone $119 kit.

I believe Advanced Auto Parts was the other store that had the same oil cooler info. But at this point I don't remember. I've been to a few places and it's starting to become a blur for me.

I think the guy at NAPA said it didn't matter or couldn't for the life of him speculate why. But he may have had a guess.

Anyway --
I had thought I settled on the NAPA Mileage Plus. I compared the two NAPA kits side by side. Their economy for $164 with their premium Echlin $229. I would say both the same with the economy
having more surface imperfections, blemishes; the rotor having
the 2 plastic hold down pins smuched or smeared somewhat; while the Echlin ones were melted nearly perfect.

But then I located an AC/Delco for $180. The cap has a translucent quality to it that shows the circuit traces from pins to spark plug sockets. But even AC/D has some imperfections on the cover near
the gasket. It looks like a RETURN with some old engine grease.

Oh, boy. Maybe someone swapped out parts.

All these brands look like they were manu by the same outfit. Instructions sheets are/look the same. They all claim you need a T8
torx bit for the rotor screws. BUT THE ORIGINAL ROTORS ALL USE T9 SCREW HEADS. Same mistake, unless they are in fact enclosing rotor screws that have T8s heads.

I overthunk the pulley removals.
Lots of "Break Away" spray overnight.Then a slight tapping with a short piece of wood and hammer on the first pulley from underneath and behind, had it falling off almost into my gut.

The harmonic balancer was harder. Almost bought a H.B. puller.
More spray and ScotchBrite on the axle. But the solution was standing topside in front to grab the H.B. and rotate and wiggle it forward as far as it would go.

That gave me some room from underneath and behind to gently
tap it near the axle using a small brass mallet on the legs and then hitting that mallet with a steel hammer. I couldn't alternate left side right side.Not enough room, so I rotated the balancer and was able to hit each leg to keep it straight on the axle as it moved forward; finally poping off. Eureka. Boy did I feel good.

So onto the distributor. I still felt nervous about screwing that up.
many years ago I did that to a 85 Mercury by putting a distr. in 180
degrees off. Of course that was an easy fix.

i got an E4 torx bit socket from AutoZone. It's by Great Neck and cost only $2.99. but I had to grind it down somewhat on its shoulder to fit the two recessed screws in the cap.

Lots of liquid crap inside. Maybe oil or my spray from cleaning near the water pump outlets. Cleaned up nice.

I thought I found TDC using a straw in Cyl.#1. Marked the
rotor to the distributor body and timing cover. Pulled the distributor out. O-rings disintegrated.

On the back of the distributor:
My keyed slot is almost on the #6 mark (almost ) not the #1 mark.
Just read it doesn't matter which number. I really thought I had found #1 TDC.
Anyway I did reference the rotor to my own mark. So it should all work out when I put the new rotor to same mark??

You know as I rotated the crank and held the straw I could see and feel the straw travel down then up. But it was up on all twelve o'clock positions not every other 12 o'clock. Why?

Anyway dare I rotate to be exactly on the 6 mark line or even #1?
(These are the marklines on the distributor's back that that slot references tdc#1 or #6).

Now I'm finding recommendations I should also replace the wp seal and the distributor seal BOTH on the timing cover. Another learning curve.

very good detailed info ...

thanks for the part store search on this item..

the only problem I see is what was that liquid in the distributor ? was it oil from the cam seal..? possible that the penitrating oil used on the pulley/harmonic balancer got in ..

the dist cap seal almost always falls apart ..on removal ..as I stated this is the most important part of the job cap sealing ...next to installing everything as you removed it ...

very good detailed info ...


the only problem I see is what was that liquid in the distributor ? was it oil from the cam seal..? possible that the penitrating oil used on the pulley/harmonic balancer got in .. ..

Or maybe gasket remover spray and brake cleaner/acetone spray both
used liberally to clean around the water pump inlet areas.
This was all done before I knew about the distributor leaking issues.

Anyway I got it all back together and new wp and distributor seals in the timing cover(FelPro makes a timing cover kit which includes wp gaskets, wp seal, wp(or opti) o-rings, distributor seal and TC gasket which is cheaper than buying just the distrib. seal). Put in new plugs and wires. New air and fuel filters. Oil change and pvc valve. Runs great!

I was only a month without wheels. What a learning experience.

You know once you do the opti it becomes apparent how the timing
isn't such an issue. Reading and Doing can be so totally different in
comprehending it.

Thanks for the input!

Or maybe gasket remover spray and brake cleaner/acetone spray both
used liberally to clean around the water pump inlet areas.
This was all done before I knew about the distributor leaking issues.

Anyway I got it all back together and new wp and distributor seals in the timing cover(FelPro makes a timing cover kit which includes wp gaskets, wp seal, wp(or opti) o-rings, distributor seal and TC gasket which is cheaper than buying just the distrib. seal). Put in new plugs and wires. New air and fuel filters. Oil change and pvc valve. Runs great!

I was only a month without wheels. What a learning experience.

You know once you do the opti it becomes apparent how the timing
isn't such an issue. Reading and Doing can be so totally different in
comprehending it.

Thanks for the input!

thanks your report on this repair .

so what distributor cap did you use ?

thanks your report on this repair .

so what distributor cap did you use ?


AC/DELCO for $180

I also have the classic wagon, and am having to R&R the water pump. Have removed the water pump, and also thought I might as well replace the distributor while I was at it, so am glad to get all the info. I'm under the impression that the "distributor" is all one piece. I also have the Chevy shop manual, which does have helpful info in addition to the Haynes, which is pretty brief...but any additional info, or links to pictures, would be appreciated...
Veronica.

[quote=j cAT;6479987]If you look this up on the internet search you will find many pictures and details on removing this water pump and replacing the cap/rotor, and if necessary the distributor..

can you give links to these pictures and details?
Veronica mangan

VM,

Your search of the board archives for information is admirable, and always advisable. However, since this thread does not answer your question completely, your inquiry is worthy of an entirely new thread. I have copied your posts to that thread, which can be found here:

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=1061245