Starting Problems

I have a 2002 GT with a 3.8 and 79k on it. Lately it does not want to start. Sometimes it starts fine then the next time it is totally dead. Then all of a sudden it starts. Could I have a bad starter? Sometimes it also starts up and dies then you start it again and it runs fine. If anybody has any ideas it would be great.

So when you say it doesn't start is that the starter not engaging including no clicking or the starter engaging and the engine not firing up?

Today there was no clicking at all. Then after about ten minutes it started clicking and then started. A lot of times is clicks a few times before it starts. Sometimes it starts right up then dies immediately. Then it starts right up and runs fine after it just died.

I would get the battery load tested first of all.

Also, check the battery positive and negative cables and the terminals at the the battery. Clean, tight, serviceable, no corrosion.

If above checks out then check for 12 volts with ignition to START at the starter solenoid "S" terminal (purple wire).

Battery and starter checked out fine. I went out to start it today and it was dead. I kept on trying to start it and on the fifth try it started. When I would crank it over there was no clicking or anything and then all of a sudden it starts. Could it be the ignition or some sensor that it bad?

Possibly ignition switch or the crank relay located in the main engine compartment fuse box or starter/solenoid. If you check the starter solenoid "S" terminal located at the starter and there is 0 volts with ignition to START then you back track to the items mentioned above. Also, check the red terminal connection at the top of the main engine compartment fuse box and make sure it is tight.

Without turning ignition switch to run or start do you get the Instrument Panel lights when headlamp switch is turned on?

Try starting it in neutral next time it wont start. If it starts a trans range (PRNDL) switch could be your issue.

I will check the starter solenoid and see about the volts. I checked the red terminal today and it was tight. I do not get instrument panel lights when I turn it to on. They come on when I reach the run position.

When it wont start, do you hear anything from your starter at all? A click or anything? How is your coolant level.....?

When it won't start there is no noise from starter at all. No clicking or anything. The coolant level is ok.

Do your lights dim out a lot when you try to start it and there is nothing? You may want to try a voltage drop test across the battery cables as an assisstant cranks the starter. Anything more than about about a half volt drop and something is up.

I know it has been awhile but my car was starting for me. Today it will not start again and I am getting a 12 volt drop between the battery terminal and the purple wire on the starter. Does that mean my starter is bad or could it be something else.

:confused:

Are you getting 12 volts at the starter solenoid "S" terminal and purple wire or the 12 volt drop which means around ZERO volts.

The purple wire at the starter should show 0 Volts unless the motor is being cranked over. If so, the ignition switch and PRNDL switch are doing ther job.

Connect the positive lead of your multimeter to the positive of your battery. Then connect the negative lead of your multimeter to the past on the starter where the large cable goes to. Have an assistant crank the starter. If the multimeter shows anything more than 0.5V while cranking, you have excessive resistance somewhere, like maybe a corroded battery terminal, or a bad battery cable. Repeat the same process for the negative side by going from the negative battery post to the housing of the starter.

If everything looks good, I'd bring the battery back in for testing. Sometimes those wimpy little testers parts places like O'reilleys have can't load a battery down enough to run an accurate test.

Will your car start if it is jump started?

I was having the engine cranked when I got the 12 volts at the purple wire. So that must be working ok. I was trying to test from the battery to post like you said ,but now it is starting everytime I crank it over. Someone thought that there could be bad part inside the starter. Does that sound like it could be the problem.

Usually if there is a bad spot on the starter, When you turn the key to the crank position, you will hear a click as the solonoid enguages, but the starter wont turn.

Just for sake of arguement, next time it doesn't start, have an assistant turn the key to the crank position and hold it there as you take a light hammer and lightly rap on the starter body to see if you can get it to go.

I tried tapping on the starter when it would not start yesterday and that did not work. I am not getting any clicking at all when it will not start.

I'll throw this in because it recently happened to me. I had the same no start condition on my Bonneville recently bought. Sometimes start, sometimes not. Dash lights on in "on" position. Turn to crank, no crank.

It turned out to be a simple adjustment to the ignition switch. The actuator rod in the column was not pushing on the switch enough to reach the crank position.

I lowered the column and loosened the switch. I moved it closer to the steering wheel. (the switch mounting holes are slotted) Tightened it all back up and it's been fine since.

One note about doing that. Your dimmer switch mounts there also. When done with the ignition switch, adjust your dimmer switch so there's not too much play in it.

Best thing, $0.

I'll add this. Take a look at a new switch on Auto Zone's website. You'll see the slots for the mounting bolts. You will need to move the dimmer switch to access the ignition switch bolts. When I adjusted my switch, I went as close toward the steering wheel as I could with it. Good luck.

Will the replacing ignition instructions in the tips and maintenance section help me adjust the switch to see if that is my problem or do I need different instructions.

Will the replacing ignition instructions in the tips and maintenance section help me adjust the switch to see if that is my problem or do I need different instructions.

cruiser, I'm wrong. I thought the ignition switch was a similar set up to mine. Sorry. But based on your decription, I still think it may be the switch.

Did you do BNaylor's test on post #7 of this thread? I'm going to look at the wiring diagram of the switch and find which wire in the switch harness goes to the starter.

Edit:

The yellow wire coming out of the ignition switch is the output wire to the starter. Test it for voltage in crank and on positions. If you have no voltage out in the crank position, the switch is bad.

The write up on how to change the switch is very good. Here's another with pictures.

http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_ycqwcbb6wEo/Srq3O41J-zI/AAAAAAAADY8/QlLmAywPEHE/s320/DSC02484.JPG&imgrefurl=http://www.sparkys-answers.com/2009/09/2002-pontiac-grand-prix-changing.html&usg=__RbENAfetxyfr7Q3GD6UNLEVC4Gc=&h=240&w=320&sz=13&hl=en&start=6&um=1&itbs=1&tbnid=1DZ_E-W60yycsM:&tbnh=89&tbnw=118&prev=/images%3Fq%3D2002%2Bgrand%2Bprix%2Bignition%2Bswit ch%2Bwiring%2Bdiagram%26um%3D1%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DG% 26rlz%3D1T4DMUS_enUS310US310%26tbs%3Disch:1

I did not test the igintion switch yet. I will test it the next time my car will not start. Right now it is starting up for me. Thanks for the instructions to replace igntion switch.

I have pulled the starter and it tested fine. The yellow wire from the igintion switch is only reading .02 volts. Should I assume that the ignition switch is bad and replace it?

The yellow wire from the ignition switch to the starter solonoid will show battery voltage (12.6v) with the key in the crank position.

When I was cranking the ignition I was not getting any volts on the yellow wire. Does that mean the ignition it probably bad.

You mean the yellow wire from the output of the ignition switch to the input of the transmission range switch aka park/neutral switch? The wire at the starter "S" solenoid connection is supposed to be purple from the transmission range switch.

The input to the ignition switch is from IGN MAIN 1 fused with a 40 amp fuse. If that is good then remove the connector to the trasmission range switch and then measure to see if you still have low .02 volts on the yellow wire with ignition in the START position. If still low then the ignition switch is bad.

I replaced the ignition switch today and the car started right up. Hopefully that solves my problem. I guess time will tell. I want to thank everyone for the help.