95 taurus wagon gl 3.8 stalling
binkydaclown
05-30-2010, 01:19 AM
Hi everyone!
I was reading through some of the posts hoping to find an answer to my question(s). I think that I may have narrowed the cause of my problem down thanks to those before me.
It has been awhile since I've messed with my car but I will try to remember everything i can about the problems and post them here.
Things I've noticed happening:
1. Since I've owned the car (4+ years) the speedometer needle has always bounced wildly.
2. The car would stall randomly, usually while at a stop light in gear. Occasionally it would happen under 5mph, but never above that.
3. Sometimes after stalling it would start right back up...other times it may have to sit for hours before starting.
4. Sometimes the cruise control would kick off on the highway when I switched lanes or went around a slight curve. Never when driving in a straight line....very weird I thought.
5. In it's last months, it was sluggish on take off and when passing other's on 2 lane roads.
The check engine light did come on occasionally. Sometimes it would stay on for an hour, other times just for a few seconds. The car does not have nearly the power it did when I first got it.
I have not taken it to get the code read as advance tells me they can only do it on 96 and up. I did borrow a reader from my dad's work but he said the check engine light needed to be on to get a reading and I never could get it to come on when I needed it to.
My cousin had an old cavalier that had troubles with stalling in the same manner my wagon does. He changed the TCC solenoid and it fixed his problem. From what I've seen in other posts about the intermittent cruise control it looks like the VSS, which I would also assume could cause the speedometer to bounce wildly.
What I've tried:
1. Fuel filter
2. Plugs, wires, cap, button, coil
3. Checked for vacuum leak (didn't find one, not to say it's not there)
So guys, what do you think the problem could be? I don't want to invest a lot of money into it as it was given to me and I've already dropped a few hundred $$$ for the things mentioned above along with a radiator, heater core, hoses and the likes. I don't care to put some time into it, just not gonna spend a lot of cash.
Any help would be greatly appreciated cause the wife wants it fixed or gone, and I mean yesterday lol.
Thanks in advance!
I was reading through some of the posts hoping to find an answer to my question(s). I think that I may have narrowed the cause of my problem down thanks to those before me.
It has been awhile since I've messed with my car but I will try to remember everything i can about the problems and post them here.
Things I've noticed happening:
1. Since I've owned the car (4+ years) the speedometer needle has always bounced wildly.
2. The car would stall randomly, usually while at a stop light in gear. Occasionally it would happen under 5mph, but never above that.
3. Sometimes after stalling it would start right back up...other times it may have to sit for hours before starting.
4. Sometimes the cruise control would kick off on the highway when I switched lanes or went around a slight curve. Never when driving in a straight line....very weird I thought.
5. In it's last months, it was sluggish on take off and when passing other's on 2 lane roads.
The check engine light did come on occasionally. Sometimes it would stay on for an hour, other times just for a few seconds. The car does not have nearly the power it did when I first got it.
I have not taken it to get the code read as advance tells me they can only do it on 96 and up. I did borrow a reader from my dad's work but he said the check engine light needed to be on to get a reading and I never could get it to come on when I needed it to.
My cousin had an old cavalier that had troubles with stalling in the same manner my wagon does. He changed the TCC solenoid and it fixed his problem. From what I've seen in other posts about the intermittent cruise control it looks like the VSS, which I would also assume could cause the speedometer to bounce wildly.
What I've tried:
1. Fuel filter
2. Plugs, wires, cap, button, coil
3. Checked for vacuum leak (didn't find one, not to say it's not there)
So guys, what do you think the problem could be? I don't want to invest a lot of money into it as it was given to me and I've already dropped a few hundred $$$ for the things mentioned above along with a radiator, heater core, hoses and the likes. I don't care to put some time into it, just not gonna spend a lot of cash.
Any help would be greatly appreciated cause the wife wants it fixed or gone, and I mean yesterday lol.
Thanks in advance!
shorod
05-30-2010, 09:28 PM
You could start with the VSS, but first you might pull the codes with a piece of wire or multimeter. I don't have the steps in front of me but you can view the steps from About.com.
-Rod
-Rod
binkydaclown
06-01-2010, 05:18 AM
Thanks for the response Rod. After some searching I found instructions on how to check the OBD1 codes like you mentioned. I will get to that this coming weekend and see what I can find out. Thanks again!
If anybody else needs these instructions I will post them below. These instructions include GM, Ford, and Chrysler.
"For vehicles made after 1996, retrieving the codes of the check engine light in your dash panel is simple. All you need to do is find your diagnostic connector located under the dash by the driver side. You can then hook up a scanner and the codes will be displayed for you. If you don't have any scanner like most drivers, you can bring your vehicle to any local automotive parts store and they will usually scan the codes FREE for you. However, for vehicles made on or before 1995, there is only one cheap way to get it: You do it yourself!On board diagnostic (OBD) was designed on vehicles equipped with electronic fuel injection so you can generally retrieve the codes yourself. No need buying a scanner or running to any parts stores to check the engine light. This system is called obd1 and applies to most vehicles made before 1995 for domestics and 1993 on imports. In this article, I will discuss the methods used by domestic vehicle manufacturers on how to check the engine lights in their cars and trucks.
For GM domestic vehicles made before 1995, the diagnostic connector is located under the dash panel by the driver side. To get the check engine codes to flash in your dash panel, use a jumper wire or a paper clip and connect terminals A and B of the diagnostic connector. Turn your ignition key on with engine off and the codes should start to blink. All codes should start with code 12 which is one long flash followed by 2 short flashes. This code 12 means the diagnostic system is normal and will repeat itself continuously if there are no trouble codes. Otherwise, code 12 will flash 3 times before flashing the fault codes.
Ford owners can check their check engine light using the diagnostic connector located at the engine compartment by the fender near the battery. Getting the obd1 codes need a couple of tools: a 4 inch long gage 16 jumper wire and a 12 volt test light.
Both tools are hooked up to the diagnostic connector and when the ignition key is turned on (without starting engine) the codes will begin to flash in the test light, not in the dash panel. If there is no code, you will normally get code 11 or 111. On Fords, there are 2 test modes, the KOEO (key on engine off) and the KOER (key on engine running). Both test modes should be used to get the accurate evaluation of the stored fault codes.
Of all the 3 domestic vehicles, the easiest method to check the engine light is Chrysler products. Why? Because all you need is to turn the ignition key on and off a within 5 seconds and the codes will start to flash in the dash panel.
Counting the codes being flashed is almost the same for these 3 domestic vehicles and most of the codes can be erased or cleared by disconnecting the battery negative terminal for 1 minute and reconnect. Just make sure to check your service manual in case you have electronic equipment such as radio or clock that needs reprogramming in which battery disconnection is not recommended. Finally after performing repairs on the culprit code, always go for a road test to confirm if the problem is fixed."
Original source is ezinearticles.com - OBD1 Codes Secrets for Domestic Vehicles.
Binky
If anybody else needs these instructions I will post them below. These instructions include GM, Ford, and Chrysler.
"For vehicles made after 1996, retrieving the codes of the check engine light in your dash panel is simple. All you need to do is find your diagnostic connector located under the dash by the driver side. You can then hook up a scanner and the codes will be displayed for you. If you don't have any scanner like most drivers, you can bring your vehicle to any local automotive parts store and they will usually scan the codes FREE for you. However, for vehicles made on or before 1995, there is only one cheap way to get it: You do it yourself!On board diagnostic (OBD) was designed on vehicles equipped with electronic fuel injection so you can generally retrieve the codes yourself. No need buying a scanner or running to any parts stores to check the engine light. This system is called obd1 and applies to most vehicles made before 1995 for domestics and 1993 on imports. In this article, I will discuss the methods used by domestic vehicle manufacturers on how to check the engine lights in their cars and trucks.
For GM domestic vehicles made before 1995, the diagnostic connector is located under the dash panel by the driver side. To get the check engine codes to flash in your dash panel, use a jumper wire or a paper clip and connect terminals A and B of the diagnostic connector. Turn your ignition key on with engine off and the codes should start to blink. All codes should start with code 12 which is one long flash followed by 2 short flashes. This code 12 means the diagnostic system is normal and will repeat itself continuously if there are no trouble codes. Otherwise, code 12 will flash 3 times before flashing the fault codes.
Ford owners can check their check engine light using the diagnostic connector located at the engine compartment by the fender near the battery. Getting the obd1 codes need a couple of tools: a 4 inch long gage 16 jumper wire and a 12 volt test light.
Both tools are hooked up to the diagnostic connector and when the ignition key is turned on (without starting engine) the codes will begin to flash in the test light, not in the dash panel. If there is no code, you will normally get code 11 or 111. On Fords, there are 2 test modes, the KOEO (key on engine off) and the KOER (key on engine running). Both test modes should be used to get the accurate evaluation of the stored fault codes.
Of all the 3 domestic vehicles, the easiest method to check the engine light is Chrysler products. Why? Because all you need is to turn the ignition key on and off a within 5 seconds and the codes will start to flash in the dash panel.
Counting the codes being flashed is almost the same for these 3 domestic vehicles and most of the codes can be erased or cleared by disconnecting the battery negative terminal for 1 minute and reconnect. Just make sure to check your service manual in case you have electronic equipment such as radio or clock that needs reprogramming in which battery disconnection is not recommended. Finally after performing repairs on the culprit code, always go for a road test to confirm if the problem is fixed."
Original source is ezinearticles.com - OBD1 Codes Secrets for Domestic Vehicles.
Binky
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