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Need help... Car starts for 10 seconds then dies


$STEALTH$
05-06-2010, 02:20 PM
My 93 dodge stealth R/T DOHC non turbo wont stay running. I have a toggle switch for the fuel pump ran inside the car. I can flip the switch on for a minute and let it build pressure. Then it starts right away. But then it dies. As if the fuel just gets cut off or something. The car has this weird security system in it. VPS or Vehicle Protection Systems. It is hooked up to some wires below the dash over by the fuse box. Then it has a wire run to this input thing under the dash. (You can see it while sitting in the car, its not hidden) It has a little thing that you stick into it. The part it self flashes red. Until i stick the key into it. The car wont start without it in there. its all connected to this VPS thing. And when it does start. It will idle for about 5 to 10 seconds and then the car will completely die on me. I put in a used fuel pump and sending unit that works. I tested it before i put it in. I also took off the fuel line where it plugs into the fuel rail. The fuel is getting to it great. Some people are saying that i need an upgraded fuel pump. Or my fuel pressure regulator is shot.

Im not sure if this has something to do with the cars computer. Which i think something is going out. I used to be able to flip up my lights when the car was completly off. The door used to ding. Dome lights used to come on. Cant get my CDs out of the CD changer in the back. The stereo has no memory when i turn the car off for 10 seconds then turn it back on. Its reset again...:banghead: I dont know what to do??....

$STEALTH$
05-08-2010, 04:44 PM
Today i started the car. It ran for about 5 seconds. Then i heard a click. and the engine killed. What is that? It ran awesome for those few seconds though. everything in the car stays on. But the engine kills. i think its coming from the computer. Now im just starting to assume its the VPS (Vehicle Protection Systems) as i said i hear a click. And the engine completely just stops. shuts off. Its not a fuel problem i know that now.

Could you please help out or give an opinion if you read this post. Thank you

$STEALTH$
05-08-2010, 06:18 PM
CAR STARTED AGAIN! But then died. But.... I found out where the clicking is coming from. My computer or one of the relays down there on the floor by the computer. I think the security system is connected to the computer somehow.

$STEALTH$
05-09-2010, 12:27 PM
Okay so i found out for sure where the clicking is coming from. Its this golden box on the passenger side by the computer. I think my security system has to be hooked up to that somehow. There is two relays on the left side that are not even working or getting power to them. :banghead:

$STEALTH$
05-10-2010, 11:26 PM
It is the Main Control Relay that is making the ticking noise. I tried to unplug it and start the car. Nothing happend. Car only starts when i have that plugged in. I read somewhere on the internet some guy took his apart and pinned the shut off relay inside it and his car ran fine. This car is just pissing me off. Im trying to get it ready for the 3SI meet. Somebody please help

AutostradaVR4
05-16-2010, 01:18 PM
maybe try replacing the relay?

first try unplugging the mass and starting it. If it stays running, but has a crappy idle, you may need a MAS.

91STT
05-17-2010, 11:50 AM
have you replaced the caps in the ecu yet?
if not, pull the ecu to check the caps.
the wiki for this on 3si can be found here (http://www.3si.org/wiki/index.php/How_to_Replace_the_Capacitors_in_a_1G_ECU%3F)
as autostrada suggested, disconnect the MAF sensor and start the engine to see if it stays running.
if it does, you either have a vacuum leak somewhere or the MAF sensor is toast.
checking the fuel pressure would not hurt either, just to make sure the pressure regulator is working properly.
at the mfi relay that you found on the right side of the console test the black/yellow wire for about 12v while cranking and once started the white/red wire should for ground.
the black/yellow wire engages the relay for your fuel pump while crank and the white/red keeps it going once it starts.
if you do not get ground on the white/red after it starts, i would suspect the ecu.
if this is the case, it is highly likely that your caps made need to be replaced if it hasn't damaged the board yet.

$STEALTH$
05-17-2010, 07:36 PM
I have not replaced or checked the ECU caps yet. I just tryed starting the car with the MAF off and it would not stay running. Car killed instantly. The main control relay still clicks the car off

$STEALTH$
05-17-2010, 07:36 PM
I have not replaced or checked the ECU caps yet. I just tryed starting the car with the MAF off and it would not stay running. Car killed instantly. The main control relay still clicks the car off

$STEALTH$
05-17-2010, 07:39 PM
Yesterday i let the car roll to the bottom of the driveway. Its about a 30 foot driveway. And i started it up and moved it to the top of the driveway then it shut off. If that helps at all??

$STEALTH$
05-17-2010, 10:38 PM
the car is completely stock. besides a cold air intake on it. It is spitting oil out of the exhaust now? the car does not run bad? It idles awesome though. I will check my ECU tomorrow after work and write back on here what my diagnosis is. Thank you guys for helping. Please continue to help some more. I really would like my car working

91STT
05-17-2010, 10:39 PM
the car should not run with the relay disconnected, so that is normal.

$STEALTH$
05-18-2010, 10:00 PM
Well i took apart my computer. Nothing has leaked onto the board. So it must not be my computer. It looks fine. The caps are all in good condition.

91STT
05-21-2010, 11:59 AM
The manual suggest that the following components be check in order, if the engine fires and than dies:

Fuel Pump
Injectors
Engine coolant temp sensor
Ignition switch
Idle air control motor
Fuel pressure
Camshaft position sensor
Crankshaft position sensor

For your electrical problems, check all of the fuses in both fuse boxes. Even if you find one bad, check the rest to make sure you don't have any others.

$STEALTH$
05-22-2010, 04:14 PM
Is there a way to check all of those??? Well my fuel pump works because i have a hot wire hooked up to it. But if i dont have that hooked up it wont work. My injectors are working i think. Because the car will stay running. Its getting all the fuel it needs. Engine coolant temp sensor i have no clue how to check. or the rest on down

and where would all of those be? I just found what looks to be a computer box on the passenger side. By the door. What is that too? What is it called?

geechiedan
05-24-2010, 12:40 PM
No one has said anything about the possibility of it being the fuel filter. By the way where is it located.

91STT
05-24-2010, 01:59 PM
No one has said anything about the possibility of it being the fuel filter. By the way where is it located.

Typically, checking the fuel pressure is a start to determine if the fuel filter is a possible culprit. There is a fuel strainer in the tank and a fuel filter on the firewall next to the battery.

$STEALTH$
05-24-2010, 09:55 PM
No one has said anything about the possibility of it being the fuel filter. By the way where is it located.


No not one person has said anything about the possibility of the fuel pump. Im sure thats good. Car is getting fuel pretty good now. Its something electrical i think. Because my fuel pump is hooked up right but there is no power going to the fuel pump on the wire. Its like cut off of power

$STEALTH$
05-24-2010, 09:58 PM
Typically, checking the fuel pressure is a start to determine if the fuel filter is a possible culprit. There is a fuel strainer in the tank and a fuel filter on the firewall next to the battery.


I know where both of those are. Have not checked them yet. I know the strainer is good. Its a new fuel pump in there. Never checked the fuel filter. But what would that have to do with no power in my fuel pump line on the sending unit? Should have voltage. I tested it. No power. So therefor thats why i did the hot wire for the fuel pump. The car has the check engine light on. Im having it towed to a shop this week one of these days after work and getting it looked at. Doing a diagnosis test

91STT
05-24-2010, 11:50 PM
I know where both of those are. Have not checked them yet. I know the strainer is good. Its a new fuel pump in there. Never checked the fuel filter. But what would that have to do with no power in my fuel pump line on the sending unit? Should have voltage. I tested it. No power. So therefor thats why i did the hot wire for the fuel pump. The car has the check engine light on. Im having it towed to a shop this week one of these days after work and getting it looked at. Doing a diagnosis test

My response was to geechiedan.

You do not get power to the black/blue wire unless you are cranking the engine or when it running. You will not get power with the key on while the engine is off.
Did you check the black/yellow and white/red wires at the MFI relay as I suggested in a previous post?
There is a fuel pump check plug located near the firewall behind the battery. The wire is black/blue and is the same gauge as the stock fuel pump wire.
Try powering up this wire while you have someone crank the engine, if it starts and remains running like normal while this wire is powered, you can more or less disregard the pump, the filters or the injectors as the problem but it is not definitive.
If it does not remain running, you have to check the components mentioned previously. There are no shortcuts.
There are members of 3SI in Wisconsin, try reaching out to them, there may be someone local to you that may be able to help you troubleshoot.

$STEALTH$
05-25-2010, 01:27 PM
I found the black and blue wire. It has a connector on the end of that. Nothing needs to be hooked up to that? well... Do i just take a hotwire to that while the person is cranking it over.

91STT
05-25-2010, 04:06 PM
I found the black and blue wire. It has a connector on the end of that. Nothing needs to be hooked up to that? well... Do i just take a hotwire to that while the person is cranking it over.

yep, just attach a pigtail and touch the positive post of the battery.

$STEALTH$
05-29-2010, 05:51 PM
specify what a pigtail is please

pr0ject01
05-29-2010, 06:11 PM
im pretty sure a pigtail is a bare wire that you stick into the backside of the connector/plug so you can just touch it with the terminals to see if it has power.

91STT
05-30-2010, 09:59 AM
im pretty sure a pigtail is a bare wire that you stick into the backside of the connector/plug so you can just touch it with the terminals to see if it has power.

Pretty much it
Better to put a blade type quick disconnect so the connection is solid

$STEALTH$
05-30-2010, 02:22 PM
Alrighty ill give it a shot. But now i have run into another problem. The alarm system wont let the car start now. Ever since i disconnected some stuff. Like the main control relay. It wont start now. I took the ECU out but didnt disconnect the wires. Looked like something was kinda fried. I couldnt tell. It was kinda blackened in that area. I didnt see nothing leaking on the board. I dont know how many caps i "should" have in there.

$STEALTH$
06-06-2010, 12:22 PM
The car is in a shop now. Ill let everyone know how the diagnostics test turns out. Ill have a call from them by wednesday. They are talking about the aftermarket security system. Which most likely has a solenoid to it. THANK GOD!!!:runaround: They think thats why the car is not running. Lets hope thats the only reason. My biggest fear is wires fried or something. Or the computer itself

$STEALTH$
06-08-2010, 07:25 PM
So here it is..... I got the results and.... Not too good. Shop says i need a new ignition switch and a new engine computer. cylinders 1 2 3 5 dont work at all. 4 and 6 work but they are staying open. The cylinders are flooded according to him. I had them take out the alarm system. Atleast that problem is off my hands. I guess that wasn't it then...Thats what i thought it would have been.

Well does anyone have any suggestions on what i should do?

$STEALTH$
06-12-2010, 01:56 PM
Okay so i bought my new computer for the car. Its a used one. Now the part numbers and everything match. But it is out of a AUTOMATIC CAR! He says it will still work with my car. All the numbers match on it.


AND I ALSO JUST BOUGHT SOME BRAND NEW 18' RIMS WITH LOW PROFILES 2000$ FOR ALL OF IT

dominoski
06-27-2010, 07:12 PM
have you checked you IAC?
this is a quick fix that should always be checked as the 300o seems to always have a problem with it. if you have then I would also suggest that you check the clip on your air box the clips get worn and have trouble staying on fully

$STEALTH$
07-01-2010, 07:57 PM
The computer fixed my whole problem.

papasmithnc
08-21-2010, 12:26 AM
The computer fixed my whole problem.

Thanks for keeping us up to date on the process and eventual solution. I wish everyone would do that so as to help others with similar problems.

Dave in NC

$STEALTH$
08-25-2010, 09:00 PM
Thanks for keeping us up to date on the process and eventual solution. I wish everyone would do that so as to help others with similar problems.

Dave in NC


Your very welcome

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