2005 ls wont start

after i replaced the spark plugs and a faulty ignition coil car wont start. car fires up but wont stay on. any help please.

Welcome to the forum!

Did the car start and run fine before you changed the plugs and coil? When you say it will fire up, do you mean it will start but stalls quickly? What if you give it some throttle, will it stay running? Is it the V6 or the V8? Have you carefully reviewed everything you had apart to change the coil and plugs to make sure you got all hoses connected and connected to the correct ports? Did you make sure you connected the intake air tubing securely and have the MAF sensor plugged in?

-Rod

hi i'm sorry i didn't introduce myself to the forum... hi everybody. i have a 2005 v6. it was running pretty fine it will just misfire sometimes at a stop light and sometimes while accelerating. then the check engine light came on, then i checked it with my code reader and it gave the codes P0353pd, P0353, and P0305pd. I removed the intake manifold I unhooked the following ( I'm not too sure about the names): two electrical plugs in the front, two electrical plugs at the back, two hoses next to each other on the drivers side of the intake manifold, and a small orange hose form the back, also a hose broke thats connected to a hose coming from the radiator. I left two hoses on top of manifold alone. Then I replaced the ignition coil #3 and replaced all spark plugs. Replaced intake manifold gaskets, then followed sequence and torque specs for the bolts. Reconnected all of the parts I disconnected. Tried to start, the engine starts but never stays on. When I press gas after starting it tries to stay on but eventually dies, it would rev up then go down then back up then down then repeats this several times then dies. " intake air tubing securely and have the MAF sensor plugged in?" not sure what these are I'm really a novice.

now i think of it i did tighten and secured the intake air tubing

It does sound a lot like a MAF or an air leak problem. Unplug the MAF and see if the engine will start and stay running. If it does, then you have an air leak somewhere after the MAF, or the MAF was damaged somehow.

hi joe, ok i disconnect the MAF and it starts and stays on but it revs up and down, then these codes came up: P2106, P0113pd, P0122pd, P0222pd, P0223pd P061Fpd, P2106pd, P2110pd. thanks for any help.

You mention you had a P0305 diagnostic code but you replaced coil #3. Any reason you didn't replace coil #5 which the code indicated? The P0353 doesn't necessarily mean the coil is bad, that code could also be a wiring issue or problem with the coil driver circuit. Likewise, a P0305 doesn't necessarily mean a coil problem, just a misfire on cylinder #5 which could be compression, spark, or air/fuel issues. Fortunately cylinder #5 is an easy one to get to on the V6.

I'd still start by carefully double-checking everything you had apart. Any chance you took photos before removing the upper intake manifold?

-Rod

hey rod, yeah i checked everything had took apart several times but still no results. unfortunately i didn't take pictures, but i'm i put everything back in reverse of how i removed. does the hose i broke has anything to do with it, i doubt it because it has coolant in it.

hi joe, ok i disconnect the MAF and it starts and stays on but it revs up and down, then these codes came up: P2106, P0113pd, P0122pd, P0222pd, P0223pd P061Fpd, P2106pd, P2110pd. thanks for any help.

P0122 - Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch "A" Circuit Low
That's a serious one. I suppose it could be an issue with EMI from a bad coil, but it usually doesn't make it that far. You may need to go to a dealer.

P0222 - Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch "B" Circuit Low
It's getting even worse, go to a good Lincoln dealer.

P0223 - Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch "B" Circuit High
Go to the dealer.

P061F - Internal Control Module Throttle Actuator Controller Performance
Either this is a result of the above codes, or the source of them.

P2110 - Throttle Actuator Control System - Forced Limited RPM
Just a result of the above codes.

P2106 - Throttle Actuator Control System - Forced Limited Power
This is just a natural result of the P0122 and P0222 and P0223 codes.


P0113 - That's because you have the MAF disconnected. No worry there.

I think that either you have some really messed up coils or connections to them, or other serious wiring problems. This may be over your head at this point.

hey joe, was all of this going bad anyway or did i do something to cause this when i removed the manifold. also, do you think this is covered by pwertrain warranty or is this under electrical?

Also, back in December on my way home for Christmas break I hit a huge alligator going 80mph. I had alot of work done on it such as replacing the radiator and transmission lines. Would the impact of this accident cause any of my problems I'm facing now?

I don't think that the accident had anything to do with it.
I do think that it is more than coincidental with the recent work you did.
I doubt that it was going bad, and I doubt that it is more than one problem.
It should be covered under powertrain, but if this is an aftermarket warranty it may not cover anything that would ever fail.

hey joe, also there was burnt oil on the old spark plugs when i removed them, is that cause for concern also?

hey joe, also there was burnt oil on the old spark plugs when i removed them, is that cause for concern also?

I assume that you mean the outside parts of the sparkplug and not the spark gap area.
It means that your valve cover gaskets need to be replaced. Oil in the sparkplug wells can cause coil damage/failure. Letting the oil in the wells drain into the cylinders when you change the plugs can also make it difficult to start the engine at first.

there was oil on the spark side and on the threading

There have been other folks with 2003 and newer LS's that have had codes for the throttle body related to coil/misfire issues. I think you either still have a bad coil (what about coil #5?) or you have a wiring issue from when you took the upper intake and throttle body off. Maybe you pinched a wire, a terminal got damaged, or you don't have a good connection. I doubt that your current issues are just coincidental based on the area you were working on. I also don't believe hitting that 'gator contributed to any of this.

-Rod

thanks for the advice joe, but i want to exhaust all of the options i can i do myself before towing it to the dealer because i'm a student and can't afford it, that's why i tried to replace the ignition coil myself. is the oil on the spark plug gap a cause for concern? hey rod, you think i should check all wiring first, visually or with a volt meter? then replace ignition coil #5 if wiring checks out? thanks for any help, as i said before i'm a student and would like to fix this for as cheap as possible.

Other than your time, checking the wiring/connections is a free exercise. I'd start there. The other item I've been somewhat hesitant to mention is the PCV elbow. You would have disturbed the PCV system in the process of taking off the upper intake manifold and the elbow at the PCV has been known to crack or collapse. Unfortunately it's deep below the upper intake manifold and is often replaced while the manifolds are removed. It would create a vacuum leak if cracked and possibly the symptoms you describe.

If you really do have oil on the electrode portion of the plug, that would indicate that either there was standing oil in the plug well that wicked to the electrode as the plug was removed, or you have a head gasket or severe ring issue allowing oil in to the combustion chamber. Was the entire spark portion of the plug black and wet, or was it a peach color with what appeared to be fresh, unburned oil on it? If the former, it sounds like the plugs been burning oil. If the latter, then it sounds like it probably just wicked it's way there. Do you remember which cylinder that plug came out of?

BTW, congratulations on tackling this job. Taking off the upper intake manifold on the LS V6 is not a trivial task and even some more seasoned DIY'ers would be intimidated by such a task.

-Rod

thanks rod, but i don't think i tackled this just yet.

first, i checked all visible wiring and there seems to be no problems.

second, what does the PCV elbow look like. maybe you can show me in the first two pics.

third, in the third pic, the red/orange tube you see was connected to the rear of the manifold. i believe i installed securely but maybe i could be wrong. i reinstalled it but now i waiting to get my battery back from autozone because it died. would this tube not being completely in the black rubber "elbow" cause any of the problems i'm having?

finally, the spark plugs was black, wet, and had a smell of burnt oil to it. i took a pic them too.

here's the links
http://i39.tinypic.com/2re1cmb.jpg
http://i41.tinypic.com/2vxom8l.jpg
http://i41.tinypic.com/dr2hsg.jpg
http://i41.tinypic.com/9llkk6.jpg

thanks again for your help

The PCV and elbow will be located beneath the black plastic lower intake manifold that also has the blue oval gaskets. You'd need to remove that black plastic manifold and fuel rail to get to the elbow of interest. I cannot state for certain that the 2005 LS V6 has a PCV valve, but I believe it does. The photos look the same as what I ran in to with my wife's 2002 LS V6.

The red vacuum hose probably connected to the DPFE Pressure transducer on the back side of the manifold. You would definitely want to be certain that is properly connected and not cracked or damaged from the handling. Those lines do get brittle. Your car hopefully still has an emission sticker under the hood that should give an indication on where that vacuum line goes.

The photo of the spark plugs is not very clear, but it doesn't appear the plugs are wet with oil or fuel, just coated with carbon. That might be from running rich rather than due to an oil leak. If you want a better guess you'll either need to get a better photo or compare them with one of the websites that shows spark plugs and describes the conditions that could cause the appearance. Many of the plug manufacturer's websites contain such photos and descriptions.

One other thing to keep in mind, these cars are VERY sensitive to having a strong electrical system. Weak batteries, even if they still test fine, can cause strange driveability conditions. When you get the new battery installed and verify the vacuum hose is connected, be sure to start the car and check it out before tearing in to the engine again. Maybe a new battery will fix several of the concerns.

-Rod

hey rod, do you know where's the fuel shut off switch at?

You'd be best off to check your owner's manual, but I think it's on the drivers side of the trunk, behind the liner. There will be a small hole that you would reach through.

If you don't have an owner's manual with the car you can download a PDF of it from this site (https://www.fleet.ford.com/maintenance/owners_manuals/default.asp).

-Rod

You'd be best off to check your owner's manual, but I think it's on the drivers side of the trunk, behind the liner. There will be a small hole that you would reach through.

If you don't have an owner's manual with the car you can download a PDF of it from this side (https://www.fleet.ford.com/maintenance/owners_manuals/default.asp).

-Rod

Driver's kick panel.

hey guys i think the guy at the autozone sold me the wrong intake gaskets. the one he gave me was the intake manifold gaskets and i think it suppose to be the intake plenum gaskets. would this cause my problem?

i think this guy at autozone is out to kill my car. he brought me 2 gallons of 50/50 antifreeze and told me put them in and top it off with water, but the bottle says DO NOT ADD WATER and several people i talked to said the same. can i top it off with water or not? also, would running the engine for a short time without the MAF damage anything?

The 50/50 antifreeze/coolant is already mixed with water, if you top the system off with water you are degrading the performance of the mixture.

You'll have a difficult time driving your car with the MAF disconnected. It will run horribly and may not even stay running. The air/fuel ratio will likely be way off and could cause damage to the catalytic converters.

-Rod

thanks rod and i didn't mean i wanted to drive it, i was just talking about doing what joe said earlier. about testing for a leak.

thanks for all the help guys, i finally fixed the problem and it was the gaskets. now when i run the engine i'm getting another code, P0351, ignition coil at #1. so should i go ahead change all of the ignition coils now? and if i do it now should i buy new gaskets again or can i reuse the ones i just put in? thanks for the help again.

also, would poor quality/cheap gas cause the check engine light to come on or cause misfiring?

P0351 is not a misfire code. It is a code for a bad primary circuit. That's a rare thing. This is on cylinder #1 (passenger side, front of engine). First check very carefully the wiring to the #1 coil. It's usually that you pinched the wire somewhere. If not that, then it could be the coil or the PCM. I'd bet on the wire or the connector.

Poor gas is blamed for a lot of things when someone can't figure out what is really wrong. It's hardly ever the gas.

hey joe i checked the wire and the connector and they seemed to be ok and not being pinched. you think i should go ahead change coil 1? if i should, could i use the same gaskets or buy new ones? i put 21 miles on it so far.

What I would suggest is to swap that coil with another one, in this case one on bank 2 since it's easier to get to, and see if the code follows the coil or stays with cylinder #1. A replacement coil is around $55 at O'Reilly Auto Parts. When I bought coils for my 2004 V8 from O'Reilly they came in BWD boxes but they all had Motorcraft stickers on them with Ford part numbers. In 2002 the intake manifold gaskets were reuseable, the factory service manual says to inspect them and replace if necessary. I would imagine the same holds for 2005.

-Rod

Yeah, I doubt that it is the coil. The advice to swap the #1 coil with the #4 (or 5 or 6) coil is good. I would do that as the next troubleshooting step. If the code moves to #4, then it is the coil after all. If it stays with #1, then it's back to looking at the wiring harness. If if goes away completely, then the connector to the #1 coil would be a good suspect.

thanks for all the help guys. i went ahead and just replaced coil #1 and it seemed to fix the problem. only thing now is that it seems to struggle up hills sometimes, but its not a real problem.

hey guys my problem came back. after i replaced coil #1 and #6 it fixed the problem for about the first 200 miles. then between miles 201 - 1100 (trip to miami from tallahassee and back) it started acting up, it seemed to be misfiring again at idle and while accelerating. mile 1101 error codes came back P0306 and P0351. do you think its the valve cover gasket (i think i remember this from another thread i searched). mileages are rough estimates. hey rod do you think you can send me that pdf repair manual for the 2002. thanks.

Valve cover gaskets on the 2005 are typically not a common problem. They fixed the typical issues somewhere in the 2002 timeframe.

I'd suggest you try moving the coils around as suggest above in post #32 to confirm if it's a coil issue or a wiring issue to the coil.

-Rod

hey rod i put new ones in already and it fixed the problem for about 200 miles, then the problem returned. let me recap everything: 1. P0353: replaced coil #3 (my mistake earlier i said #6) code went away. 2. P0305: replaced coil # 1, code went away. after 200 miles the engine would sometimes rumble at red lights and loss of power during acceleration. then after about 1000 miles both codes returned. thats why i think there's something that's making them go bad. i visually check all the wiring and everything seems fine. any suggestions on what would make the coils go bad?

Which is why I'm suggesting swapping those coils with other cylinders. If the coil is bad, the code should quickly show up on the cylinders you swap the coils with. If the problem is wiring to the coils or a problem with the fuel/compression, the codes will remain on 3 and 5.

Why did you replace coil #1 for the P0305 code?

-Rod

sorry i made a mistake again. the code was P0351 then i replaced coil #1 and code went away. also after the codes reappeared my battery began to die. so i brought a battery and i know the codes disappear when you disconnect the battery so now i waiting on them to show up again. instead me having to go back in and remove the manifold to swap them, can i just put my old coil that i replaced, into cylinder 4 and see if it shows a bad coil in #4?

i'm sorry i made another mistake. P0306 and P0351 showed up a 1000 miles after i replaced coil #3 (P0353) and coil # 1 (P0351). so the P0351 came back and P0306 is a new one.