Time For A Brake Bleed

I know how to bleed the brakes, but I just don't remember which wheel to start with and which wheel to end with. I seem to remember years back (:biggrin:) in auto-shop that it was best to start with the rear calipers?

I got some Raybestos Advanced Technology law enforcement edition pads and when I retracted the caliper pistons a bunch of fluid leaked out of the resevoir. So I drove it around expecting the level to drop back down so I could top it off and it didn't move! :confused: The braking wasn't near what I was expecting either so I'm suspecting air in the system.

So can anyone tell me the correct order of the calipers to bleed?

Thanks!

I have always started with the right rear which is the farthest from the reservoir then the left rear and the right front and finally the left front. I have never had a problem bleeding the brakes this way. The reason why the reservoir over flowed was when the pads went down, I think you may have topped off the reservoir. When you pressed in the caliper piston on all the calipers this increased the level of the brake fluid in the reservoir.

I have always started with the right rear which is the farthest from the reservoir then the left rear and the right front and finally the left front. I have never had a problem bleeding the brakes this way. The reason why the reservoir over flowed was when the pads went down, I think you may have topped off the reservoir. When you pressed in the caliper piston on all the calipers this increased the level of the brake fluid in the reservoir.

Ok, that's what I thought. I'll probably do this tonight.

You don't think it hurt anything by retracting the pistons and having all the fluid gush out the resevoir do you?

...You don't think it hurt anything by retracting the pistons and having all the fluid gush out the resevoir do you?

If its driving around with no ABS issues, then you probably are ok.

Be carefull on the brake bleeders, I'd be willing to bet I would snap all mine off being in MN with the rust.

You could just siphen some fluid out of the resivore.

If its driving around with no ABS issues, then you probably are ok.

Be carefull on the brake bleeders, I'd be willing to bet I would snap all mine off being in MN with the rust.

You could just siphen some fluid out of the resivore.

No ABS issues and the bleeders are okay, I'm sure. I bled the brakes a couple years ago, but I don't think I did the calipers in the right order. Hopefully I see improved braking after tonight.

Well that didn't go to well. The pass rear caliper screw completely stripped. I used everything I could to try and get that thing off - pb blaster, vice grips, everthing. There's not much of it left so looks like I have a new caliper coming.

How are those to replace - I've never done one. Do you just undo the brake line and then pop the new one on? Are there any other special procedures that need to be done because I have ABS?

Yep, just unbolt the brake line off one, and put it on the new one. You should have new copper seals that come with the new caliper. If not, be carefull to not lose the ones that are on there (one between the caliper and line, other between the line and bolt), and then make sure they are put in in the right direction. It seems to me like one side of them are tapered, and the other side are flat (flat side goes towards the line if I remember right).

Then with the new caliper on there, it may be a good idea to open the bleeders and let it gravity bleed for a few minutes before you step on the brakes or you could cause issues with the ABS system.

Be carefull not to get brake fluid on the paint and if you do use a bucket of cold water and lightly was it off. I have seen guys get brake fluid on fenders while bleeding. A few seconds after they notice it, they wipe the fender off with a rag, and end up wiping paint off. That stuff is brutal on your paint.

No joy here either. Was doing the brakes on the GP. I had to order new caliper brackets for the front and rear. Had the caliper bolts were either broken or seized in the caliper brackets. So got all my parts in and may tackle the brakes may be tomorrow. I will also have to replace the rear adjustable track bar. The cheapest price I have found is $43.32 which is mail order. Advance auto parts is $94.59, O'reilys is $63.99, and autozone did not have the part listed online.

Couple pieces of advice. Use a 6 point socket on the bleeder bolt. This gives the best chance of "cracking" it loose. Then switch to a (likely) 12pt OE wrench for bleeding purposes.

I use a 1-man brake bleeder kit I got from Summit. Sort of a pump-up bottle that gets partially filled w brake fluid. It has an adapter to the master cylinder cap. So simply build up 15psi and crack the bleeder screw with a short bit of hose until it runs clear. I think its a good maintenance item especially where it snows regularly because the brake fluid is hygroscopic (attracts water - even will pull humidity out of the air).

Relative to brake fluid on paint, the newest OEM basecoat clear coat finishes are immune. Reason is brakes are filled "over the fender" in vehicle assembly as opposed to the older system of building an undercarriage complete w filled brakes and then marrying this with the trimmed-out body. However best not to take any chances to be conservative.

I also use flare wrenches which are used for AC repair. That also works good too. As stated above less chance of rounding off the bleeder screw.

Relative to brake fluid on paint, the newest OEM basecoat clear coat finishes are immune.


Really? Newest as in what year?

Try dumping brake fluid all over your hood, let it sit there and see what happens. Any takers? :lol:

Really? Newest as in what year?

Try dumping brake fluid all over your hood, let it sit there and see what happens. Any takers? :lol:

I was just going to ask if crazyhorst or anyone was willing to give this a shot for the sake of arguement. :evillol:

Sure as long it is not any of my cars.:devil:

Well I got the caliper replaced yesterday and bled the rest of the system. For a change of pace, it all seemed to go rather well. The caliper swap wasn't near as bad as I thought it'd be.
I went and did a test-drive afterward and while I did notice improved braking, it seemed like the car pulled to the left when the brake was applied. What usually causes that?

When my car usually did that is when the left tire had lower pressure then the right. Or may be the left tire is out of balance?

pulls to the left after replacing a caliper, first after a drive i would feel the wheel to see if it is hotter than the rest, if so your caliper is hanging up. Then i would re-bleed the entire system and pay attention to the right caliper to make sure all the air is out.

I didn't notice it really on the way to work, so I'll keep my eye on it. I just thought it was weird that after replacing the right rear caliper, it pulls to the left. I dunno.

Yeah because there is air in the right caliper still so it doesn't apply as quickly as the left causing the pull to the opposite side of the car.

Crap. I bled that thing forever!! I went through an entire big bottle of brake fluid!

That is why I like using the vacuum pump to bleed the brakes. Never had a problem bleeding the brakes.

yeah, top off the resivore, open all the brake bleeders and let the system vacuum bleed for 10 minutes. Then close them and start the bleeding process from the farthest from the master cylinder to the closest.