best fluid you reocommend oil, transmission etc

Hello

Ok so PRICE IS NOT AN ISSUE HERE I want the best fluid for my chevy caprice 1991 from motor oil, transmission fluid to any other fluid/oil the car takes. recommend me any brand /product thats the best.

Thanks

Hello

Ok so PRICE IS NOT AN ISSUE HERE I want the best fluid for my chevy caprice 1991 from motor oil, transmission fluid to any other fluid/oil the car takes. recommend me any brand /product thats the best.

Thanks

Royal Purple

Hello

Ok so PRICE IS NOT AN ISSUE HERE I want the best fluid for my chevy caprice 1991 from motor oil, transmission fluid to any other fluid/oil the car takes. recommend me any brand /product thats the best.

Thanks

with a new engine and transmission with no mileage I would use synthectic oils/fluids ...they are all very low on wear with excellant properties for heat transfer and life, resistance to getting acidic and seal protection..oil filters need be the wix or purolator plus , also k&N ...

if this is a 1991 engine and tranny just put anything in it ..your wasting your money, the damage is done , too late now ...

with a new engine and transmission with no mileage I would use synthectic oils/fluids
if this is a 1991 engine and tranny just put anything in it ..your wasting your money, the damage is done , too late now ...


Good Advice..:2cents:

with a new engine and transmission with no mileage I would use synthectic oils/fluids ...they are all very low on wear with excellant properties for heat transfer and life, resistance to getting acidic and seal protection..oil filters need be the wix or purolator plus , also k&N ...

if this is a 1991 engine and tranny just put anything in it ..your wasting your money, the damage is done , too late now ...

thanks but why cant i use the synthetic ones with the 1991 engine? the car is running good right now, wouldn't it help kinda get rid of the bad stuff or get it running smoother and be easy on the engine?
what about the engine restore product etc. I just want to put some life back in to the engine with any means possible but excluding replacing tranny/engine.

thanks

thanks but why cant i use the synthetic ones with the 1991 engine? the car is running good right now, wouldn't it help kinda get rid of the bad stuff or get it running smoother and be easy on the engine?
what about the engine restore product etc. I just want to put some life back in to the engine with any means possible but excluding replacing tranny/engine.

thanks

no one said you could not ///it was recommended not to because your not gaining ,but wasting you money doing this ..

synthetics are almost identical in chemistry TO EACH OTHER ....very good stuff...
It does not make your vehicle run better , if it is not running good now..this synthetic oils/fluids reduce wear of the componets to a very low amount...thats it....

with dino oil and those filters I mentioned I got with no problems or engine work 380,ooomi on a 1983 gm V8..so if you do the proper oil changes every 3-4,000mi and use the dino oil with the recommended filters you should have not a problem of any greater damage..

the newer engines require the synthetics ...it would be foolish to buy a new vehicle and use dino oil TODAY ....IF YOU GET A BRAND NEW ENGINE USE THE SYNTHETIC OIL ..


with your vehicle change the oil every 3,ooomi . tranny and filter every 30,ooomi , change the coolant every 2 yrs and drain the entire coolant system / engine and heater core . use 65% coolant 35 % distilled water and replace the thermostat ...installing a larger radiator is best also ..

this will reduce any wear issues ..

you may have vacuum leaks ..this will reduce power and cause idling issues...

no one said you could not ///it was recommended not to because your not gaining ,but wasting you money doing this ..

synthetics are almost identical in chemistry TO EACH OTHER ....very good stuff...
It does not make your vehicle run better , if it is not running good now..this synthetic oils/fluids reduce wear of the componets to a very low amount...thats it....

with dino oil and those filters I mentioned I got with no problems or engine work 380,ooomi on a 1983 gm V8..so if you do the proper oil changes every 3-4,000mi and use the dino oil with the recommended filters you should have not a problem of any greater damage..

the newer engines require the synthetics ...it would be foolish to buy a new vehicle and use dino oil TODAY ....IF YOU GET A BRAND NEW ENGINE USE THE SYNTHETIC OIL ..


with your vehicle change the oil every 3,ooomi . tranny and filter every 30,ooomi , change the coolant every 2 yrs and drain the entire coolant system / engine and heater core . use 65% coolant 35 % distilled water and replace the thermostat ...installing a larger radiator is best also ..

this will reduce any wear issues ..

you may have vacuum leaks ..this will reduce power and cause idling issues...

Wow you are great when it comes to informative advice.
My car is sitting at 260k miles right now. I want it to run atleast another 100k, and that is why I asked what steps should I take to make it run with less wear/tear.
Thanks

Good advice above HOWEVER do NOT use synthetic oil on a BRAND NEW engine or FRESH REBUILT engine that's not broken in - if you do, it will not break in properly and oil consumption will remain high.

what year radiator do you recommend for my chevy caprice 1991 sedan 305 v8? I want a larger one as you recommended!!!

what year radiator do you recommend for my chevy caprice 1991 sedan 305 v8? I want a larger one as you recommended!!!

I would get a new 3 core H.D. radiator ..use the 14.5/or 15psi pressure cap ///never use the 16psi cap as the side tanks cannot take the pressure..then if you are going to do this install a transmission cooler in front of the ac compressor condensor..this all will reduce the engine/tranny heat to keep the wear low...

always use the proper thermostat...many try to get around the heat build up by using a lower temp thermostat this is stupid because the system in most stock vehicles of your age cannot maintain the lower temps when its 90 deg plus out in traffic with the ac on max...

Full synthetic. I like Mobil 1 synthetic for engine and trans. Castrol Syntec/Edge is good also for engine.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/post-a197279-

Full synthtic. I like Mobil 1 synthetic for engine and trans. Castrol Syntec is good too for engine.
X2 wix or napa filters give very good filtration for the money.

I would get a new 3 core H.D. radiator ..use the 14.5/or 15psi pressure cap ///never use the 16psi cap as the side tanks cannot take the pressure..then if you are going to do this install a transmission cooler in front of the ac compressor condensor..this all will reduce the engine/tranny heat to keep the wear low...

always use the proper thermostat...many try to get around the heat build up by using a lower temp thermostat this is stupid because the system in most stock vehicles of your age cannot maintain the lower temps when its 90 deg plus out in traffic with the ac on max...

Ok so to get it right
I should update to following:
- 3 core h.d. radiator
- 14.5 or 15 psi pressure cap
- Transmission cooler
- Thermostat

Ok so for thermostat I am confused can you tell me which one is good from the url here http://www.drivewire.com/search/?N=0&sv=0&VN=4294967235+4294966993+4294966315+4294966181+429 4966504&Ntt=thermostat&Nr=AND%28universal:0%29

Ok so for thermostat I am confused can you tell me which one is good from the url here http://www.drivewire.com/search/?N=0&sv=0&VN=4294967235+4294966993+4294966315+4294966181+429 4966504&Ntt=thermostat&Nr=AND%28universal:0%29

Don't rely on the picture, it's not the real part, just an example.

Use the 1st or 2nd one, but the jet chips (2nd) is better. You need also a housing gasket.

Don't use the copper thermostat.

Don't rely on the picture, it's not the real part, just an example.

Use the 1st or 2nd one, but the jet chips (2nd) is better. You need also a housing gasket.

Don't use the copper thermostat.
thanks and for the housing gasket? which one

thanks and for the housing gasket? which one

The 6th pic. Which is the blue one.

The 6th pic. Which is the blue one.

thanks alot my friend, really appreciate your kind help:biggrin:
one more thing, can I install it myself? I mean is it easy do it yourself? or do I need someone pro install it?

Show me a picture under hood at the location of the thermostat (driver side). I'm not sure if there's enough place under the air filter to work easily on it.

Does a single one of you have any MEASURED DATA showing that your recommendations are valid???


Guessing not, you are all relying on commercials and magazine ads.

Does a single one of you have any MEASURED DATA showing that your recommendations are valid???


Guessing not, you are all relying on commercials and magazine ads.

Yes. I already seen an automotive show on TV that compared 2 oils : Castrol GTX vs Castrol Syntec.

2 identicals cars (new crown victoria) was tested on conveyor belt on secong gear at full rpm. The one with castrol GTX burns after 20 minutes or so. Engine was done.
The one with Syntec start making fume after 30 minutes and still didn't burn.

So yes, it makes a difference.
And a lot of scientific facts explain that synthetic oil lasts longer and are better than mineral oil. It reduces wear and break in. What is cool with synthetic oil is that it sticks on metal part more than regular oil. So engine is uniformly lubricated.

I forget to said also that there's now Castrol Syntec Edge which is even better than Syntec.

Yes. I already seen an automotive show on TV that compared 2 oils : Castrol GTX vs Castrol Syntec.

2 identicals cars (new crown victoria) was tested on conveyor belt on secong gear at full rpm. The one with castrol GTX burns after 20 minutes or so. Engine was done.
The one with Syntec start making fume after 30 minutes and still didn't burn.

So yes, it makes a difference.
And a lot of scientific facts explain that synthetic oil lasts longer and are better than mineral oil. It reduces wear and break in. What is cool with synthetic oil is that it sticks on metal part more than regular oil. So engine is uniformly lubricated.

I forget to said also that there's now Castrol Syntec Edge which is even better than Syntec.

I hope you sited a TV show as a JOKE, such things are ADVERTISING NOT actual valid testing.

Any of you ever even heard of Used Oil Analysis?? You can have your oil tested for condition and wear metal content after use and that will tell you how good an oil is in your actual application. For example M1 is a quality product BUT in an LT1 it shows elevated iron wear, put the same oil in a VW 1.8Turbo and the results are excellent. Different engines like different things based on actual measurement, reading about how a base stock is better is meaningless when in most cases it is the additive package that wears out first.


You wont find a single reputable 4L60E builder that wants M1 ATF in their 4L60Es either, it just doesn't work well in this tranny, at least not for performance use.

Most of the Castrol Syntecs are group3 and not true synthetics which are group 4 and group 5, BUT Castrol Syntec 0w-30 specifically labeled "made in Germany" consistently shows wonderful UOA results in smallblock Chevys from the gen 1 right on up through the new stuff.

Group 3 oils are only marketed as "synthetic here, elsewhere in the world they are not allowed to call group 3 base stock synthetic.

About the ad, it seemed true. Maybe ad, not completely sure.
Is quaker group 3 or 5?

http://image.hotrod.com/f/9172987+w750+st0/HRDP_0606_07_z+flat_tappet_cam_tech+quaker_state_o il.jpg

Another detail often overlooked is 3-5K miles of street driving is a VERY different demand on an oil than 500 miles of roundy round in one afternoon and the race oil may NOT handle the street use.

having used synthetic in my vehicles for now over a decade I find your comment weird...

the 1996 LT1 engine with synthetic has shown no wear or any negative operation...a very clean non leaking no sludge engine..

the tranny 4l60 with the mobil synthetic fluid no particles in pan filter very clean every 30,ooomi fluid servicing with no shift delays when cold..

with the 2000 silverado this was also observed ...


my testing is when the temps drop to below zero F. that performace is what most impressed me ...like a summer day ..


I would never go back to any non synthetic fluids in these vehicles.

fluid testing for wear is a good thing to do ...especially if you have expensive construction earth moving equiptment , or perhaps racing engines but not the normal driving that is done on street legal vehicles on the road..

I have read over the spec's of these other synthetic manufactures fluids and they are very close ...

having used synthetic in my vehicles for now over a decade I find your comment weird...

the 1996 LT1 engine with synthetic has shown no wear or any negative operation...a very clean non leaking no sludge engine..

No he saids that Castrol Syntec is not high brand synthetic. It's intermediate.
And racing oil is not good.
Nobody said that synthtic is not good.

There is also a big difference between a quality product and an APPLICABLE product as I tried to say with the M1 engine oil comment. It never showed great results in an LT1 despite it's marketing born reputation, but in the VW 1.8l Turbo I have seen UOAs at over 10K miles that the oil was still doing great. Good quality product BUT not that good for the LT1 application.

Far as I run stuff a long tiome and blindly trust it is great. That argument is invalid. Last weekend we put the 198K mile motor out of a friend's 9C1 into his wife's car. We cammed that motor at 160K miles a few years ago. It was a cop car and then a daily driver, no idea what it got in service(synthetic seems unlikely) but after it got Mobil Drive Clean, the basic dino stuff in 5w-30, motor is doing great, far as we know the heads were never off till last weekend when we swapped them for a pair with screwin studs, new springs and a fresh valvejob. Bottomend was just resealed and dropped in.

Far as tranny fluid and gear lube for that matter, sythetics CAN be too slippery, in a tranny or Auburn and some Eaton posis there are clutches, something that NEEDS friction. If you never put any power through those clutches you may never have a problem with the reduced holding power of synthetics but that does not mean it is not there and not still causing some minor extra slippage at the shifts.

The new Dexron VI still meant for 100K fills and GM having longer warranties than ever is only a semi-synthetic not a full.

nice debate here but I am still in confusion, so with a car that has 260k miles on it and is almost a daily driven normal car, which oil should I use what actual brand/product both for engine oil, tranny and whatever else my car takes?

No he saids that Castrol Syntec is not high brand synthetic. It's intermediate.
And racing oil is not good.
Nobody said that synthtic is not good.

read the post . he states transmission rebuilders do not recommend M1 mobil 1 synthetic fluid ..
" You wont find a single reputable 4L60E builder that wants M1 ATF in their 4L60Es either, it just doesn't work well in this tranny, at least not for performance use. "

racing oil is not for the long life ...racing engines are replaced daily...pure performance...

castrol syntec is also a good oil, they are all very close...in the spec's.

ok. what about Castrol Edge? Or quaker state (no racing) for engine and trans? Or pennzoil, valvoline?

ok. what about Castrol Edge? Or quaker state (no racing) for engine and trans? Or pennzoil, valvoline?

over 10yrs ago I went to the mobil synthetic products as it was recommended by my fellow workers , who used this for many yrs...with long mileage interval fluid changes ...so I just stayed with the proven product and I am very happy with this manufacturer of oils..

since I keep my vehicles at least 10yrs I would not change to other products ....reading the spec's of the many available, cost , access to product , warrantee , all should be used to decide what you choose.

mobil products in my area are available at a good price so I just stay with them..

nice debate here but I am still in confusion, so with a car that has 260k miles on it and is almost a daily driven normal car, which oil should I use what actual brand/product both for engine oil, tranny and whatever else my car takes?

use the castrol dino oil 5-30wt with the wix/purolator plus oil filters..

in the tranny use the dexronVI or the mobil fully synthetic tranny fluid ..with a filter replacement also ....

replace the fluid 2-3x if it has a bad color / odor to it ...

The reason you can't get GOOD technical information around here is because of "manual mechanics" like jcat. He opened a chilton once about 1980 and thinks he is an expert.

The 11.5 car in my signature gets street driven a LOT and my favorite track to go to is 150miles EACH way so on many days I race I put more than 300 miles on it. It is not a racecar, it is a quite fast street car. If you run the math on the quarter mile data and the weight you will see it makes nearly DOUBLE stock HP. Street driving something like this makes you actually figure out what works as opposed to blindly trusting the ads on Spike saturday morning.

Transmission is over 6 years old and nothing fancy inside just well assembled. Been fed mostly Walmart store brand fluid. Tranny I had before this one got M1 and lasted barely over a year behind less power.