Remote turn-on (ohh lala)

Ok, now for the remote turn on.. how did you guys do this?
For now, I'm using the factory deck, so can I just take the remote turn-on wire from the harness going to the factory amp and splice into it and connect it to my amp for my subs?

Also, one more thing.
When I'm driving, my box seems to move around A LOT.
Is there any way to stop this from happening?

For the remote turn on for the amps, I think you can tap into the remote turn on for the factory system, because its not like you're drawing much power or anything, It's basically there to sense when the car is on. If you want to do it ghetto style, you can ever splice it onto your cigarette lighter wire. About the box moving around, try using rubber feet on the bottom. Like a llittle rubber wedge type dealy.

Anyone know which wire going to the factory amp is the remote turn on?

Cmon guys, this is the last step of my install

do you have a remote antenna? if do, track doen the wire that operates the antenna and use that.

What do you mean "remote antenna"?

What the heck is a remote antenna?
Sorry, just anxious to get this damn thing working..

Would be alot easier to use remote turn-on from factory amp.

i mean, does your car come with a standard ariel that goes up when you turn on the stereo? if it does, then you can find this wire at the back of the headunit and use it as the remote live, afterall, this what a remote live is.

are there 2 seperate wires that go to the antenna or something? I guess I could try it.. where does the wire run and what does it look like?
I don't really want to screw with too much stuff though..

i cant tell you the colour of the wire, but if youre looking at the wires at the base of the antenna, remember them, then go to the back of the stereo, try to find them there. Use a 12 volt tester on the ones you think it is and turn the stereo on and off, the wire will power on and off with the stereo. Thats the one you need.

ur amp should have come with a remote wire. mine was blue

Originally posted by SkylinesKillAll
ur amp should have come with a remote wire. mine was blue
I have a remote wire, but I need to tap into the wire going from the head unit to the factory amp.

Also, P11GT,
where would I buy a 12 volt tester?

y?

Why?
I need it to turn on my aftermarket amp.

you can get the tester from any hardware shop or motor factors. its just a small flat screw driver with a bulb in it and has a wire with a croc clip on the end. you earth the croc clip and test for postives with the screw driver.

Nevermind, bad idea..
When using the damn tester, all the wires make the thing light up!

Also the antenna wires are hard to get too and are all wrapped up in electrical tape

there should only be the one that goes on and off with the stereo, not the key ignition you know, the actual on and off button on the headunit.

if all else fails, and you really want to run it right now, just connect the remote turn on wire to 12 volts, either constant or better, the switch live from the ignition found at the back of the stereo. But this is only temporary!!!!!

Ya, this whole thing is only temporary.
I'm gonna rewire my whole car and put in new fronts and backs and a new amp. Just gonna run it to the front of the car straight to the remote-turn on wire connected to the headunit instead of at the back of the car.

ok, good luck, im off to bed, you got me worn out:D remember, if you do connect the remote to a live, disconnect it before you leave your car. you dont wanna flatten the battery.

Guys. c'mon. The wire should be blue with a white stripe

No, at the trunk there is no blue/white wire.. for some reason the wires connecting to the headunit are totally different colors then the ones connecting to the amp.

Anyways, thx P11GT you really helped alot,
and NIGHTY NIGHT! :):o :o

Just run the wire from the head unit harness back.

That's more of a pain in the ass though and I'm not sure if my wire will reach that far..

Anyways..
I was being stupid and cut some of my speaker wires going to the factory amp.. What would you guys use to reconnect these besides soldering?

buy crimpers. they are like, little metal tubes with a rubber insulator around it. you put one end of the wire in one end, and the other wire in the other end and you just take some pliers and crimp them together

oh, and for the remote turn on, it's easy, you prolly just need to get some more wire, and just use a coat hanger and run it inder your carpet.

Running the wire is the easy part.. I will just run it along the way I ran my power wire. But ya, I bought butt connectors and they work like sh!t and they dont hold the wire.

use the connectors then wrap them with electrical tape. run the write from the amp to the head unit not to anything else. jus look at the wire scmatics and find the two that are the remots and commect em.

Alright,
Now I ran the wire to the front of the car and connected it to the remote turn-on. I know there is current going through the wire because I checked it.
After all this, my amp refuses to even turn on, but I know all the connections are right, and even regrounded it to make sure it wasnt the ground connection. I have a RF bd1000d amp. Anyone know whats up?

maybe when you were doing the wiring, and you connected it, you blew a fuse. Check the fuse in the amp, and check the fuse on the power cable near the battery

Dont have a fuse, have a circuit breaker
And how do I look at the fuse in the amp?

The amp should have a little wedge type fuse on it, just look around it

I looked in the amp and found nothing that resembled a fuse. There is also not one on the outside of it..

It should be near where the power cable connects to the amp.

simple thing to do is, to check whether the amp is working, cross the battery positive terminal with the remote live terminal on the amp, this should now switch the amp on, providing there is power going thru your live feed to the amp. Turn on the head unit and play a track.

Connected the remote-turn on wire to a 9volt battery and it turned on!
Why is the wire not getting enough voltage and what can I do?

sounds to me like you have a problem with the wire. Is the wire fed thru the car properly hidden or is it just lying around? check it for dammage i.e. loss of conductivity.

Also, you could be back to square one, you might have connected it to the wrong wire on the headunit.

It's not connected to the wrong wire.. I have a wiring harness and it's that wire !
And my wire is not just laying around, it is routed through the side of the car like the power wire is.

so have you checked it for any current?? if theres power going thru the remote live wire, and its then connected to the amp, it should turn on no problem.

Well it's turning on my factory amp isn't it?
Anyone know anything about relays and how that would work?

P11GT, how did you connect 2 amps?

theres no relays in the system, unless you count the one in the amp, the remote operates the relay to divert power from the 12 volt battery into the circuitry inside the amp. If the 9 volt battery is working it, then so should the remote live youve fed.

Ya, don't know whats up :(

Thats a creative system you got there tho :)

Wish I had enough experience to do that :rolleyes:

thats what im trying to say............. check all the basics before delving too deep, cos most of the time, its just something real simple, like a lose connection. i posted the picture to illustrate that i do know what im talking about, and im just checking the little things.

I never doubted your expertise. I'm new to this so consider everyone more knowledgable than me :)

Nah, but I saw that before in your other post and was totally impressed (except for the getting hit in the head part heh ;) )

Anyways, I'm gonna check the remote wire and get back to ya ..

k, no probs, just me being big headed i suppose, solly:)

It'd be better if you had a voltmeter to check it with, then you know whats actually happening with that damn wire. Im getting peed off you reading it, god knows what youre going thru!!

Ok, connected it and its not sending AT LEAST 9 volts through.
I hear a popping sound when I touch the wires but it doesnt turn on..
I have a voltometer but have no clue how it works or if it even works at all (its from Radio Shack :) )

i think i might know what it is. Is the popping sound coming from one of the speakers?? if it is, then youve connected the headunit end of the remote wire, to a speaker wire, which in that case, it wont produce the required voltage to power the amp. Check that out.

Well how does this work?
The harness looks like this:
-------
|o .. x|
|o o o|
-------

The 'x' is the wire that is remote-turn on on my wiring harness and is blue/white colored. The corresponding wire on my car harness is red with silver dots. I'm so confused !!

so the blue/white wire goes from headunit into a multi-plug connector then out as a red wire with the silver dots into the cars harness, right?? and youre definately sure that thats the remote live......hhhhmmmmmm it should work no problem.

another option, im sure i mentioned it before, do you know what a switch live is? this becomes positive when you insert your ignition key and turn it to position 2. You can use this for the moment, until you get someone to have a good look at the wiring. It just means that your amps will be on when youre driving even if the stereo isnt. This wire is also at the back of the stereo, as most cases, you need the key in to operate it.

just a thought, to get you thru.

wait, the blue/white amp remote wire coming out of the head unit side SHOULDN'T be connected to any wire on the factory side, right? It should just come out of the head unit side of the harness and connect directly with a wire back to the amp.

Found it, it was the opposite wire I was connecting it to.
It works now but seriously, the whole thing sounds like sh!t..
I don't know if I did something wrong or what but when it hits, it hits like a second too late and also doesn't pound worth sh!t either, although my lights dim (damnit!)

What frequency should I be setting the crossover on the amp to?

P11GT.. two things,

1) What is that rubber stopper thing called thats in front of your box?
2) To carpet my box, I need to go to a Vinyl store right?

Also, I think my system might sound like shit because I might have connected the high-to-low convertor to the amplified sound wires coming FROM the amp and not the speaker wires going TO the amp.

Any thoughts?

1) the stopers in my pciture are just these plastic things called 'trunk eeze' and i bought them from a cheapy shop over here. Theyve got claws ans velcro on the bottom of them so it dont slip, ideal for wedging a sub box, and came i packs 3 for £1.00 not bad at all.

2)the cloth i use is called simple acoustic cloth. It comes in various shades of black/grey/blue. The most important thing is that its backless, meaning that its not woven into a backing material, therefore is very felxable and streches a bit for those akward corners. simply use this cloth with contact adhesive.

youve lost me on the last point:confused:

however, some amps do have a high level input, meaning you can simple extend the speaker wires from the headunit to power the sound, or you can use speaker to RCA (phono) convertors and use a RCA lead as the sound input on the low level part of the amp, only if you dont have RCA outputs on your headunit. Otherwise, its not recommended to cross these two types of connections.

if you need any advice on tuning the system, let me know. Also, this amp you have in, what exactly are you running with it??

Here's the deal.. right now I'm just using the stock speakers and the stock head unit. I am splicing into the speaker wires and connecting them to a high-to-low convertor (or RCA convertor). Then I run that to my amp (which only has low-level inputs) and then the subwoofers connect to that through parallel wiring. The subs are Infinity Perfect 12.1's ..
This system seriously, the way it is now, sounds like crap. I would rather have no bass than listen to the "smacking" sound of the subs.
Yes, they don't pound, they "smack".. It sounds really weird

Anyways, what I was saying was that I think I might have spliced into the wires coming FROM the amp, not going TO the amp. Like, if they are coming FROM the amp, they have current running through them to power the speakers, therefor amplifying the signal, and then again amplifying it when it reaches the amp for my subs.

maybe you wired the sub wrong on the amp, like you did the + to the minus and the - to the plus. I dunno if that matters, but if you think about it, that could cause the sub to thump in, rather than out. but I'm not sure

Theres no way I could do that. I made sure anyways.
Since I wired in parallel, one wire goes to both subs - and another wire goes to both sub's + ..

maybe you don't have the corssover set to low, like under 100hz, so you are getting all sound comin out of the subs.

No, I made sure I set it lower than that..
Gain is like almost all the way up and when the subs hit the sound is funky and offbeat and sounds NOTHING like my bro's car and I have a better system. I wish you could hear this.. You would seriously cry

I could almost swear you have the + and - wires crossed. because I think that would cause the magnet to operate backward, right? and that would make it sound weird.

I dont know let me go check it again but I'm pretty sure they're not.
They ARE pounding outwards.. I still think it's the crappy high-to-low conversions and the amplified speaker wire but who knows??
Ok, I'll go check real quick..

Ok, switched the pos/neg wires and it still sounds like shit