Blowin mad fuses here...

anyone know why my #13 fuse (meter) keeps blowing when i put my car in reverse? it's the fuse for my gauges, 1 out of every 5 times i put it in reverse my tach, speedo, and engine temp gauge all drop to zero. the car still runs but i already went through 7 10amp fuses. what the deal?

Hmm not sure, this will be not one of the best advices to you, but take it to the dealer and ask them to check your circuitry.

try bigger fuses :confused:

Originally posted by DiS
Hmm not sure, this will be not one of the best advices to you, but take it to the dealer and ask them to check your circuitry. been there, they charged me damn near $500 to have a new alternator put it cuz they said that was the problem, which it wasn't. When this fuse blows, i'm under the impression that the alternator stops working cuz if i drive with it like that for a couple hours the lights all start dimming out, the stereo goes blank and my radar detector starts buggin out and the car hesitates to start. I was thinking there was a short in the line to my revers lights but i don't understand how that could lead to my gauges blowin out.
and i even put a 20a fuse in there and that blew.

Originally posted by 97wvmax
try bigger fuses :confused:

Bad idea, there is a reason it's blowing. Upping the fuse rating might cause something else to fail.

Electrical fires are not fun.

Have you installed after-market back-up lights? They may be drawing too much power. Another thing to consider is your shift-lock solenoid. This little machine has a magnet that draws in a lever to release the lock from PARK when you shift our of gear and into REVERSE (or any gear out of PARK). If it only happens in reverse, try backing your car in and see if it happens when you simply shift out of PARK. I once had this problem and I noticed that I had grounded out my ECU with a bare wire that was touching the body of the radio harness. If you have done anything after-market (electrically), start by checking for grounded-out wire locations (using a voltmeter). I would start with the rear back-up lights first, given your explanation.

By the way, fuses are dirt cheap if you go rip them out of cars at the junkyard. Save yourself some $$$ and pull a bunch, pay little--just a thought--

But I agree, DO NOT INSTALL A HIGHER-AMP FUSE... there is a reason the fuse is blowing.

I'm not sure if the following is a "state specific" or national law/regulation but here goes:

In Michigan the law requires that vehile owners are liable for payment pursuant to ONLY those items and labor required to fix your vehicle. Furthermorer, you are entitled to receive ALL of your parts that were removed or replaced.

So if the repair shop is trying to fix the problem by simpy replacing everything they can think of....your not entirely responsible. I learned this lesson a few years ago with a Thunderbird SC transmission when I got shang-hied for a $1700 bill. I got ass-fucked through my wallet right into the same problem I had before (pardon my language).

So they installed and charged you for a new alternator...guess what, you just got a free alternator (or they're welcome to put you old one back on). The zero-sum-total is you only have to pay for results....you do not have to pay for someone else's adhoc approach to auto repair. Also you should get your old one back and have it tested at another shop. Doing so COULD strenghen you case.

My recommendation...you march right back in there and demand to talk to the dealer in person. Let everyone at that dealership know that you're not going away unitl you get results (not cash - no one gives money back but everyone is capable of producing results). I imagine you don't mind paying the $500 bucks. But for that price you expect results...not a new alternator and the same problems.

Sorry that I'm ranting (my blood pressure is up too). I just hate being screwed by fat cat dealers and I hate seeing it happen to others too.

Keep us posted
SmL

Originally posted by cam_honestiam
Have you installed after-market back-up lights? They may be drawing too much power. Another thing to consider is your shift-lock solenoid. This little machine has a magnet that draws in a lever to release the lock from PARK when you shift our of gear and into REVERSE (or any gear out of PARK). If it only happens in reverse, try backing your car in and see if it happens when you simply shift out of PARK. I once had this problem and I noticed that I had grounded out my ECU with a bare wire that was touching the body of the radio harness. If you have done anything after-market (electrically), start by checking for grounded-out wire locations (using a voltmeter). I would start with the rear back-up lights first, given your explanation.


i have stock lights and all and i'm 5 speed too so there is no shift-lock.
i had a y pipe put on 3 days before this all started happening, all my other mods are at least a year old.

ya might wanna check ur reverse lights and see if wires could be touching in some way or somethin of the sort. i doubt that u puttin a y pipe on would be doin that.

have u posted on the org? if u havent ya might want to. that kicks ass bout the law in michigan, im gonna check on that for around here too!

Originally posted by 97wvmax
have u posted on the org? if u havent ya might want to. that kicks ass bout the law in michigan, im gonna check on that for around here too!
i cant even get on the org for some reason i keep getting 404 error. my car's at nissan agaiin right now. the damn mechanics there get to drive my car more than i do.

Paonessa
I need your help.

I am facing today the exact same problem with my Toyota Camry 95.
There were no new installations of electrical equipment or anything that may have created this sudden issue.

When I put my car in reverse, the instrument panel dies (as does my power windows too) These are hooked to a 10A fuse which blows every time.
How did you solve your issue with this.

Anyone?

anyone know why my #13 fuse (meter) keeps blowing when i put my car in reverse? it's the fuse for my gauges, 1 out of every 5 times i put it in reverse my tach, speedo, and engine temp gauge all drop to zero. the car still runs but i already went through 7 10amp fuses. what the deal?
check your wiring to the rear lights

Typical in 'any' car: Water seeps in (or just age related oxidation), causes short circuit, or just heat causing assembly/connector(s) melt/shorted. When there is a short, fuses will blow when that circuit is powered (here R lamps). Take the rear light assemblies out, wash/clean and/or rewire.

All this happens b/c of poor maintenance, oversize lamps (W), poor materials in the first place. Check:
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/14