Rx7. Reliable?

I was offered a Rx7 at 100k miles , How reliable are these cars . I know rotary engines arent exactly the most reliable things in the world

If it is non-turbo and you take care of it, they last a long time. My husband's race car had 180,000 miles on it before the engine went, and he beat the hell out of it everyday.

It does depend on whether it's N/A or turbo. If it's a 2nd or 3rd gen turbo, I'd be VERY wary of it. Ask for ALL service records, ask if he ever raced it (professionally or otherwise), take it for a test drive. Also, ask if it's the original engine. If it is, be EXTREMELY cautious in your decision. Or, have 4 grand laying around so you can get a new engine and have it installed when that one goes. Again, that is if it's a turbo. Especially the 3rd gen. Those were notorious for not holding up. If it's N/A, again use some caution in your decision, but if it's been taken care of, you'll be fine.

Rotaries reliability depends on their maintanence. If well maintained they will last far longer then a piston engine, but if abused (service) they will give out quickly. Rotaries take a beating but be sure to service them regularly, the 13B can withstand high RPM's easily, and are good for racing...just make sure it gets serviced regularly. Rotaries only have three (two rotor) internal moving parts, that helps reliability. Get a qualified rotary shop to check it out first. The most common failures are apex seal and apex corner seal. This will be indicated by a poor idle, lack of compression, and overall poor running. The seal separating the rotor housings is also a common failure point resulting from overheating. This will be indicated by coolant consumption, and poor running. Get it checked, if it runs well, get it...

Also, the turbo engines are fine, they just tend to be abused...if anything the turbo engines are the best.

Not in the FD3S they're not. The 13B in those cars are notorious for frying after a little too much abuse. If one of those engines runs even a little hot, ping! BOOM! Very fragile engines. That's why the RX-8 is N/A, not turbo. Mazda bitched out on the cooling for them, which is why you need to be careful with them. 3rd gen RX-7s are bad cars to get a 13B from, unless you intend to redo the entire cooling system. The 13B from a 2nd gen RX-7 (N/A or turbo) is a much better idea. Granted, if you find a 3rd gen that has been maintained and has relatively few miles on it (say, no more than 80k), you should be alright. ASK FOR SERVICE RECORDS BEFORE BUYING ANY RX-7, except for the 1st gen. Those cars had pretty reliable engines in them.

Those darn rotaary engines are virtually bullet proof, I mean you can stick branches and trees into the intake manifold and make mulch for yer grandma's garden.:finger:

If you are going to get an rx-7, learn really well about the car and take care of it yourself. Dont take it to a Mazda dealership and expect them to do the work for you. You will get screwed (I work at a Mazda dealership). At work I look through the records of all the rx-7's they've serviced and it's not pretty. Most guys there dont know much about rotary's to be able to do a good job. There was a 3rd gen there a few weeks ago that needed a new clutch fork... about a 3-4 hour job... they charged the guy about $900 because it took them so long because they didnt know what they were doing. Thats the best advice I can give you. Never trust machanics.

They don't compare to the Ford dealership mechanics, going there is like watching a bad eppisode of the three stooges.

^hehehe. id have it looked at before you buy, if the compression is low then the apex seals or more likely the o-ring is going. if the check engine or water level light goes on its probably already drinking coolant. but if not at 100k its still really at the limit. (my dads blew at 75k)

^hehehe. id have it looked at before you buy, if the compression is low then the apex seals or more likely the o-ring is going. if the check engine or water level light goes on its probably already drinking coolant. but if not at 100k its still really at the limit. (my dads blew at 75k)

Yea I just got a call from the dealership and they said the compression low and the engine only has 72k on it.. @_@ gah!

Reliable, hell yes they are.

Pick me out a mass produced vehicle that makes that kind of power and has never had a head off to replace a HG od new valve stem seals.

Rotoary engines are amazing, drive 100k miles on it without so much as opening up the block. Thats some great engineering if you ask me.

Keep in mind these were once considered to be amazig sports cars, there not designed for daily driving. They require alot of attention, its almost like having a second GF, but this one seems to wine almost as much as the one who knows how to cook.

Do all the usual tests on this car before you buy it, but if your getting it for a decent price id get it anyways. And then just save the body (assumign its in good shape) then put a motor in there later on.