replacing clutch
RedLine_Celica
04-26-2003, 07:11 PM
anybody know how to change the clutch on a 89 st? or is it too difficult to do myself.
k_dog
04-27-2003, 11:36 PM
Unless you like droping the entire front suspention, I wouldnt do it yourself. It's a FF car that is a bitch to do yourself. I did it and I will never do it again. The suspention had to be droped in order to get to the transmission.
Daisrocks
05-02-2003, 07:29 PM
I have an 86 SX and never had to move the suspension. But maybe my engine bay is set up a different to yours (it is right hand drive, because we drive on the correct side of the road in Australia), and K_dog is right.
I’ll give you an outline here of how to change it. If you decide to try it yourself and want some more help then I will post a more detailed reply, and I am sure K_dog has some pointers on how to keep you fingers in-tacked.
First off: Some clutch plates contain asbestos so don’t breath in the dust or blow it off in a confined space. Or have a spare pair of lungs to hand.
Raise the car on stands (or what ever). You have to remove the clutch release cylinder, have a can and some rags ready as there will normally be fluid leak, or you can just hook it to one side with some wire and not release the pipe, but this will make it a little more cramped.
Now to remove the transaxle (this is the alloy bell housing and gearbox). Disconnect the shift leaver cables. Disconnect the speedo cable and any other connects you see. Remove the driveaxles. You may have to remove some of the exhaust for clearance. Support the engine in some way, normally a jack under the sump with a piece of wood in between. Support the transaxle on a wheeled jack. Remove the chassis mount holding the transaxle, and move the transaxle to the side - This is wear you may have to move the suspension as K_dog says!!
Keep the transaxle level and don’t depress the clutch pedal while it is out of the car.
Leave the release fork and bearing attached to the transaxle unless you want to replace them. Now remove the clutch assembly from the flywheel. Install the new clutch plates. You can use an alignment tool but I just used the handle of my ratchet and a torch to set it by eye, the transaxle will either fit or it wont. Remember to tighten the bolts in a diagonal cross fashion and keep an eye on the alignment, if it goes out slacken the bolts a little and realign then start tightening again.
After this it is just a case of putting it all back together again.
It is best to give yourself PLENTY of time (we are talking days here), in case something unexpected happens. You may round a bolt trying to take it out or snap the head off putting it in. Trust me it happens.
Good luck and may the force be with you (but not too much, torque settings are there for a reason).
I’ll give you an outline here of how to change it. If you decide to try it yourself and want some more help then I will post a more detailed reply, and I am sure K_dog has some pointers on how to keep you fingers in-tacked.
First off: Some clutch plates contain asbestos so don’t breath in the dust or blow it off in a confined space. Or have a spare pair of lungs to hand.
Raise the car on stands (or what ever). You have to remove the clutch release cylinder, have a can and some rags ready as there will normally be fluid leak, or you can just hook it to one side with some wire and not release the pipe, but this will make it a little more cramped.
Now to remove the transaxle (this is the alloy bell housing and gearbox). Disconnect the shift leaver cables. Disconnect the speedo cable and any other connects you see. Remove the driveaxles. You may have to remove some of the exhaust for clearance. Support the engine in some way, normally a jack under the sump with a piece of wood in between. Support the transaxle on a wheeled jack. Remove the chassis mount holding the transaxle, and move the transaxle to the side - This is wear you may have to move the suspension as K_dog says!!
Keep the transaxle level and don’t depress the clutch pedal while it is out of the car.
Leave the release fork and bearing attached to the transaxle unless you want to replace them. Now remove the clutch assembly from the flywheel. Install the new clutch plates. You can use an alignment tool but I just used the handle of my ratchet and a torch to set it by eye, the transaxle will either fit or it wont. Remember to tighten the bolts in a diagonal cross fashion and keep an eye on the alignment, if it goes out slacken the bolts a little and realign then start tightening again.
After this it is just a case of putting it all back together again.
It is best to give yourself PLENTY of time (we are talking days here), in case something unexpected happens. You may round a bolt trying to take it out or snap the head off putting it in. Trust me it happens.
Good luck and may the force be with you (but not too much, torque settings are there for a reason).
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