Brake Pads & Rotors

Can anyone tell me if they have had any luck with any of the high performance pads & rotors. I have 240,000 + miles and can't count the number of front brakes I have put on and the warped rotors. I do keep my rear brakes setup manually at least 1 - 2 times a year and have used GM pads & rotors NAPA's best pads & rotors & Raybestos top of the line pads & rotors. 1998 K1500 :banghead:

Can anyone tell me if they have had any luck with any of the high performance pads & rotors. I have 240,000 + miles and can't count the number of front brakes I have put on and the warped rotors. I do keep my rear brakes setup manually at least 1 - 2 times a year and have used GM pads & rotors NAPA's best pads & rotors & Raybestos top of the line pads & rotors. 1998 K1500 :banghead:

the front calipers may need replacing ....if these when disconnected from the brake line have a point where they get stuck this will cause your problem...the piston may be corroded internally ....this check is done with your fingers ...if you require a C CLAMP TO DO THE ABOVE TEST WHEN REMOVED then these are n/g....

all brake pads may need filing on the pad steel backer ...these stamped metal pieces have burrs on the edges that cause the pads to hang up..file these down so pad move with ease in the caliper .....


on my 2000 the front pads got 90,ooomi ...the rear pads [ 4wheel disc ] got about 30,ooo mi ...this rear wear was because the calipers pistons were sticking when the pads were at the 50% wear point ...

with the calipers all tested/ working correctly ,, now the braking is much better ....cooler rotors ..

Thanks for you reply. My truck is a 98 (all have rear drums) yours is a 2000 which has a completely different brake system which was to fix the problem with the older models. I did replace the calipers on my last brake job and I always check for all parts moving freely but any burrs on the pads would be gone in a couple applications of the brakes. I do believe a lot of the problem with the older Chevy's are the rear brakes. The automatic adjusters don't keep the brake shoes adjusted tight enough. Like I said I do set them up couple times a year but they probably should be adjusted every month. When I do any drum brakes I use new quality hardware, springs and make sure the adjuster is wire brushed and lubed.

[quote] I did replace the calipers on my last brake job and I always check for all parts moving freely but any burrs on the pads would be gone in a couple applications of the brakes. [quote]


I was refering to the pad STEEL BACKING PLATE , that the pad material is bonded to ...this steel need be filed so that it slides easy ...

the rear drums after 30-40 , ooo mi need replacing because they are not using asbestos shoes anymore ..this now wears the drum surface much quickly...now the front brakes do most of the work braking ...

I have had rear drums ///all drums /////4 wheel disc is much easier to repair , less parts ...problem is on my vehicle they installed an inferior low quality park brake system ,,,I wish I had the brake shoes in the rear ...not much holding power with my design on the 2000 siL..

when installing the calipers or doing a pad change I now make sure the caliper pistons move freely from full out to fully pushed back ...I found they can hang up in a certain spot because of distortions in the piston ..