Allrighty then. I performed the troubleshooting procedure and on the first step found that I wasn't getting power to pin 9 of the CCM connector. I found that my Cruise Control Switch (CCS) wasn't functioning properly. In an attempt to avoid the back-breaking pain and expense of replacing that switch, I jimmy-rigged a new, much less expensive CCS.
Procedure:
1) Locate the CCM harness connector (for 97 GLX - behind Center console storage bin) and remove connector.
2) Clip wire for pin 9 (Blue/Black I believe) and connect a new, better wire (with an inline 5A fuse) from a switched 12V source (any ignition controlled fuse) to the connector line 9. This basically makes the CCM always "on". Check to make sure you got it right by using a multimeter and testing from pin 9 on the connector to ground with the ignition ON. You should get +/- 12VDC. If so, you were successful. If not, learn more about basic electricity.
3) The wire that controls the set function is connected on pin 8. It is orange and yellow. In order to bypass the CCS on the steering column, you need to wire the same 12VDC that you used to hotwire the CCM to a pushbutton switch and then wire the other side of the switch to pin 8. This makes that new pushbutton switch the set switch. I mounted my new set switch in the plastic for the Headlight control switch. You can check to make sure your set switch works by voltmeter between pin 8 and ground, Ignition On. With the Set switch not pressed, should read 0VDC. Pressed, should read 12VDC.
4) Go out and have fun with the Cruise Control system that now works.
5) If your cruise control doesn't work still, then you need to replace the CCM (the silver box). It'll run you about $300. Sorry.