Hey Guys I need your Opinion.
Alright I am thinking of doing a Supercharger or Turbo but I dont know what to do.
I want to run a Supercharger for these reasons:
1) Its a daily driven car, so I want something relable.
2) Its a lot safer on my motor. I dont want it all torn up.
3) I live in California, so most Turbo kits are outlawed.
(I will probably get a package kit that comes with Catback, Header, Intake, Fuel Pump, and NOS with this for around 4g's)
I want to run a Turbo because:
1) Usually a whole lot more Gain
2) Everyone else has one!
3) I wanna kick some ass
Well I ask you these questions in ure response:
Which one do I get the best for my money? what do i gain? cheaper? best for a daily driven car? safer? reliable? so on..
Oh yah, My ride rite now is Stock Automatic. ( and i dont wanna hear "do a tranny swap" because i love my auto ^-^ )

Originally posted by Combo

2) Everyone else has one!


Do you wanna be like everyone else? go with the supercharger, its better suited for your application, as for the transmission - i am not formilier with HAT's but if you can get a better torque converter - do it, if they make any shift kits/lsd's do it. You still get alot of power out of a supercharger, plus with it being a daily driver you will probley like it alot more because it will always be there when you hit the gas without having to wait for it to spool.

Kyle

i have the same question. i have a 96 LS 5 speed. i can get the JR supercharger and greddy turbo for the same price, i like the fact that i can upgrade the tubo later on but i also like the fact that i will have power right away with the supercharger. also my concern, my friends turbo GS-R doesnt fully spool till 4400 and i dont want to only have 2600rpm of full boost in my car..if i get the same results

Spool time is a big negative, but if you run a slightly smaller turbo, you can almost avoid this problem. Boost controllers, and ecu upgrades also help. I know someone with an Rx-7 who had problems with spool time, and was able to fix by changing ecu. But for daily driving I recommend a supercharger, which is what I'll get after head swap

im a little biased but i say turbo

what makes you think the jrsc is more reliable than a greddy 18g?

what makes you think its "safer"?

greddy turbo kit is the only legal, carb approved type of forced inducton

everyone thinks that superchargers are more reliable then a turbocharger on a daily driver... now unless I'm an exception to that rule, it is completely false. As long as you change your oil and make sure you perform the proper service requirements every 3,000 miles either one is reliable on a daily driver provided that you don't crank your boost upt 15 lbs on stock internals. I put my turbo on my car when i hit 28,000 miles... I now have 60,000 miles and am doing a rebuild for the simple reason that I wanna run more boost. With the block apart we took a look at the pistons and there was no visible damage to them except a little wear and tear which would be expected regardless of if I supercharged or turbocharged. I drive my car 75 miles round trip to work each day, never had any problem (aside from an exhaust leak coming from the downpipe) and ran 7lbs daily. Personally I'd say turbo the SOB, but that's just me.

Well ok.. Im still a little sketchy on what to get but i need to point out one thing when u guys could apply when giving your response. With the Supercharger I get a Zex "Smart" Nitrous system, header, exhaust, and intake (for lil more than 4g's). And with a Greddy (or any) CARB legal turbo system thats all i get is the Turbo system. So which one will I get the best gain? and the best for the price? thanks guyz.

zex and boost wont work together

umm.. why? and why would they sell a kit with them together??

YOU KNOW WHAT MAN ID SAY NEITHER.......... ID SAY GO LS/VTEC......dh-racing.com THEY BUILT ME AN LS VTEC MOTOR FOR 4000 NATURALLY ASPIRATED FULLY TUNED AND I GOT 220 TO THE WHEELS....WITH MY INTAKE HEADERS EXHAUST ECU I CAN RUN A 12.5 1/4 I CAN PRETTY MUCH SPANK MOST V8'S AND EVERYTHING ELSE INCLUDING AN S2000 (ITS CLOSE THOUGH) BUT WITH A 95 YOU HAVE BETTER ECU OPTONS AND MOD OPTIONS AND THE MOTOR WILL BE BRAND NEW AND 100 PERCENT RELIABLE.......

HMm.. I have been considering an LS/VTec swap for a while also, Will I really get a better more reliable gain with this swap?? than wid a supercharger? They also have two packages on there for the LS/Vtec swap that are around the same price. Which one would be best for me? Remeber I have a 1995; 4 Door; LS; Automatic; with roughly 110,000 miles on it; Living in California (CARB Legal). Thnx!!

Originally posted by Combo
HMm.. I have been considering an LS/VTec swap for a while also, Will I really get a better more reliable gain with this swap?? than wid a supercharger? They also have two packages on there for the LS/Vtec swap that are around the same price. Which one would be best for me? Remeber I have a 1995; 4 Door; LS; Automatic; with roughly 110,000 miles on it; Living in California (CARB Legal). Thnx!!

Definitely...... you can either go with the fully built block and fully built b16 head like what i did i just swapped out everything or..... you could just get a head and slap it on there.... all his blocks are decked and honed hot tanked with high compression pistons...... i got every thing there is to get for about 5g's...... thats 220 hp too the wheels completely reliable.... ITS A NEW MOTOR..... and no worrying about spool time its instant power.....maintainence is just like a regular motor..... email this guy josh at allmtrhonda@hotmail.com

zex adds the required fuel by tapping into the fuel pressure regulator vaccum line. an fmu raises fuel pressure according to by pushing on a disk also according to manifold pressure. they wont work together.dumbass

you can call your motor reliable when you pass the 100k mile mark. until then youre only assuming.

dont confuse people with your 1/4 miles times without mentioning the weight of your car. most of the users in this forum drive full interior'd 3rd gen integras. a 2600-2700lbs vehicle with a 220hp engine will not go 12's. a high 13 maybe. if you did in fact run a 12 you shoud have smoked the s2k, not only a "close" race. v-8 would be nothing. a ws6 oly runs about a 13.5, even a corvette z06 only runs high 12-low 13's. is there a chance you cold be lieing about your "new" engine?

that n/a engine is making close to it's peak power. this means you wont be able to extract much more. a built turboed engine has much more potential than 220hp.

worse r/s ratio, lack of oil squirters, and not enough reinforcment alone make the ls block less reliable at high rpms (whats your redline anyways). you're adding high compression to the mix. high compression+high rpm=preignition. I assume you run 12:1 or higher compression. I hope you have at least 93octane pump in your town, otherwise your engine is going bye bye soon. If i'm not mistaken ls's dont come with factory knock sensors. oh yeah and be sure to take it easy on the pedal when the weather is hot.

how would the year matter for ecu and mod options? what makes you think they are new motors? theyre only rebuilt, hot tanked blocks, not new. decking+honing are required when rebuilding, and hot tank'ing it only cleans dirt/oil. you make it sound as if theye doing something special.

you sound pretty naive about performance in general, could you give exact specs of your built motor. c/r, bore, stroke, displacement, headwork, cam lift+duration, etc.

combo, electric's engine will not pass emissions, neither will a turboed or sc'd engine other than with a greddy kit at preset boost level with no blow-of valve or intercooler. sad but true

someone got :flamer:

for starters genius i said "SPANK" most v8s beacause there are alot of people out there whos camaros, mustangs, transams are supercharged so i dont wanna steer him wrong.... second my girlfriends dad has a 2002 Z06 and it runs a 12.4 1/4 mile.....and i dont know what was under the hood of that s2k because it was on the street....do you think before you talk? im currently running 11.6:1 compression.... my block is sleeved with darton iron ductile sleeves to handle the higher compression ... the motor is NEW ordered direct fom honda and if some of them arent new they are made like new or better....also 95 integs run obd 1 ecus and therefore there are a little more mod options for them not much but still more...you can get a conversion harness for an obd2 car but it is not as effective but still effective.....i said 220 hp because thats what it was when i dyno tuned it before i added all my bolt ons....and my drysump oil system....... my head is a b16 port and polished, milled for higher compression, titanium retainers also good for high revving, dual valve springs, resurfaced for a better head gasket seal....ported intake manifold with port matched Billet Big Bore Throttle Body (70 mm), my cams 308/464 are custom getting about 3 more horsepower than skunk2 stage 3 cams i also have an msd sci for my upgraded ignition..1.9 Displacement, Stroke is 89mm, Bore is 82mm, Rod Ratio is stock... Shorter rod to stroke ration means more torque, he youve been reading to many magazines and V-8 specs dont work with Hondas. maybe i didnt get 12.5 with my motor as soon as i got it but with all the bolt ons and stuff i do.....i dont need to take it easy on the pedal i live in hawaii it never gets hotter than 87.......and i run 92 octane and its just fine (mostly chevron)my car........

-2000 integra LS
-auto (new tranny on the way)
-LS/vtec built motor custom built by dave hickman racing
-b16 head PnP milled
-sleeved b18block
-aem v2 cold air intake
-custom ported intake manifold and throttle body
-msd sci
-15 inch racing hart cp-f tune r
-195/50/15 dunlop sp 9000's
-skunk2 coilovers
-tokicko shocks
-spoon style carbon fiber lip
-wings west sideskirts
-oem vis carbon fiber hood
-sparco torino look alike seats (spent too much on my motor)
-brembo calipers and rotors
-ST swaybars
-spoon struts
-spoon headers
-skunk2 catback exhaust
-p28 ecu custom chipped 5500 vtec and 9500 rev limit
-dry sump fuel system
and i dont remember anything else right now

thanks for the compliment :)

bone stock z06 you say?

yes i think before i type*.

11.6:1 isnt bad, guesstimated a # much higher

go ahead and check the vin on the bock, its used. a new block would be a waste sinc there a plenty of ls blocks around, and, like you mentioned, the rebuilt block will be stronger than a brand new one.

mod options for obd1/2 are the same. true, the obd1 benefits from less restrictions but a conversion would make them equal, just "as effcient."

in case you werent aware milling means shaving material off the head to reduce the size of the combustion chamber and as a result raise compression. so that takes care of resurfacing.

shorth rod to stroke means more torque? where'd you get that? longer stroke mean more torque, as does a bigger bore. the lower r/s of the ls is contribuited from its longer stroke+shother rod to clear deck height, this does not mean a lower r/s = higher torque. for example, a GEM deck plate'd b18c1 w/ a ls crank and 15x mm rods would equal the same torque as ls with the added 1.7x rod lenght to stroke ratio. this is an easy/safe 10k redline. ask your builder what he recommends for your engine's redline. im sure it will be lower than your supposed 9.5k. thats almost 3000 revs over stock. another thing, you claim a 82mm bore. thats only 1mm overbore from stock. not enough to make up 66cc's of displacement (stock ls is 1834cc)

I have a hard time believing you ran a 12.5 in an unmodified dc2 chassis with only 230hp, especially with an auto ls tranny. if you did, power to ya, but i would like a timeslip and pictures to prove it

"tokicko shocks"
"spoon struts"
im sure you meant tokico, but anyways, so which is it tokico or spoon

"spoon headers"
expensive piece

"dry sump fuel system"
oil*

my intention wasnt to flame in the last nor this post

ro gsr i am not trying to back up electric by any means. i do have to say something about the rod to stroke ratio. you both are arguing and not clarifying. i am new at posting, but i have been reading pleanty on cars. my car, the ls integra has a r/s ratio of 1.58:1 i believe, i may have that flopped around. the ideal rod to stroke ratio is 1.75:1. yes, the closer one can come to 1.75, the higher the motor is able to rev. the ls/vtec set up is great because of the bigger bore, but the rod to stroke ratio was made for low end power, in turn better daily driving. hey i shift at 3k almost every single time, unless there is someone giving me problems:) . keep it up gsr, and hey give us some E.T.'s!!!! please

something important left out, the ls was not made to rev high, even with your crazy head work. i dont care how well the fuel curve is mapped, some things just were made certain ways. the gsr on the other hand is the motor most desired by me, i would take it over the type r.

yes i spelled tokico wrong..... yes it is a stock z06.......my 12.5 was with slicks....and i have no backseat.......but still a 12.5 i have no scanner to show my slips but i will have one in about 3 weeks and i will be glad to post then...also my mistake i meant spoon strut bars.....and in the reviews of the z06 in most magazines they have varied results from 12.3 to 12.5 in the 1/4 mile bone stock.......yes the headers were an expensive piece..700 off of ebay to be exact.......kittedb18bt-my motor was built to handle higher revs and it also get power through out the entire rpm range...ill talk to him to get exactly what was done so i can be more specific... there is lots of negatives about ls/vtec.. what you have been reading has probally been articles by people who are not too experienced and are going straight off of specs.......the person who built my motor hs been doing it since 97 and also one of the first to do an ls/vtec conversion.gsr- thanks for your corrections.. will have slips in 3weeks to a month ....:bandit:

a little off. b18a/b's have a 1.54 r/s. b18c's is 1.58. The difference isnt much but like i mentioned before that's not the only problem. electric, you can check to see if your builder installed a block girdle by removing your oil pan. squirters you'll just find out when/if you spin a bearing. the difference in displacement between the ls and the gsr is not bore size. all 90+ b-series come with a 81mm bore except the cr-v's b20, which is 84mm. the difference comes from the crankshaft (stroke) used.

i dont read many magazines. have 3 year subscriptons for turbo performance, ss, and sport compact because i got a good deal ($6/year each) but i hardly read them. i dont have much free time. the only reason i get on here is because of work. when theres nothing else to do, i get on the internet. so what i know is mostly from experience or friends. the z06's ive seen at the track run closer to 13's; they must be bad drivers. ironic how you insult my knowdlege as being from magazines, yet you quote them.

its not what ive been reading but what i've seen first hand that directs me away from ls-vtec/cr-vtec

i agree with gsr:rolleyes: