Could anybody describe a detailed procedure for replacing the A/C compressor on 2001 Taurus with a 3.0L Vulcan engine (any references would be also helpful...) ? I have the Haynes manual but the procedure there is not detailed enough to me. It seems that I have to remove the PS pump to get to the compressor, or the passenger side cooling fan, but the Haynes manual does not mention them.
Should I also replace the Accumulator, or not necessarily? I have heard some people writing that it has to be done, while others say that it is not necessary...
Thanks in advance!

How are you sure that the A/C compressor is a problem? If the compressor is truely shot, you will want to replace the accumulator/receiver/drier since bits of the piston rings are likely partially plugging the accumulator. However, Ford compressors don't fail all that often, and yours is still pretty new.

-Rod

How are you sure that the A/C compressor is a problem? If the compressor is truely shot, you will want to replace the accumulator/receiver/drier since bits of the piston rings are likely partially plugging the accumulator. However, Ford compressors don't fail all that often, and yours is still pretty new.

-Rod

You are almost certainly right. I had very cold air until the AC compressor pulley seized and my serpentine belt broke. Although I was able to bypass the AC compressor with a 66.5 in belt and the car now runs, to have an AC I need to replace the clutch assembly. I would like to keep the AC compressor because I think it is fine. However, as far as I can see when I look at the compressor+clutch+pulley, it is impossible to replace the clutch assembly without removing them (as one unit) out of the engine compartment. This is one problem, - I do not know how to do it, and the Haynes manual is not detailed enough to me. What is more, I will have to disconnect the low/high pressure lines from the compressor. So the whole AC system will be open to air, and in such a case I heard I should replace the accumulator as well. Could you give some advice on these problems (or references/links)?

You're correct, the factory service manual (for the 2002 model year anyway) states that you need to remove the compressor to change the field coil and clutch. It also suggests replacing the evaporator core orifice as well as the accumulator.

The steps to remove the compressor include removing the power steering pump. There are a lot of diagrams in the service manual steps. If you send me a Private Message with an e-mail address for you, I'll e-mail you a PDF of the steps from the 2002 service manual. I do not have the 2001 service manual.

-Rod

Thanks very much, Rod! Just received the PDF files with detailed instructions for replacing the compressor, accumulator, and orifice tube! I hope I am able to do it, because the summer is out there, and without AC it's kind of unpleasant...

Again I need your advice. One of the steps of the replacement of the AC compressor is to disconnect the pressure line of the PS pump and replace its O-ring seal with a new one. Do you know what kind of seal it is and where I could buy it? Mine was damaged to such an extent that it is impossible to figure out its shape. One can only say that it's kind of plastic rather than rubber and its relatively thin.

Do you think if I put there a standard O-ring (mostly rubber) it will decay under the influence of power steering fluid?

Thanks in advance!
Yuri

You'll probably have to swing by the local parts store and see if they will sell a seal kit, or you might need to stop by your local Ford dealer.

-Rod

Hi I am having this same problem and was hoping to get the same PDF file if thats possible. I also was wondering how much parts ran you?

-Josh

Hi I am having this same problem and was hoping to get the same PDF file if thats possible. I also was wondering how much parts ran you?

-Josh

If Rod does not mind, I can send you those files by e-mail. send me a request to idjikaity@yahoo.com

You'll probably have to swing by the local parts store and see if they will sell a seal kit, or you might need to stop by your local Ford dealer.

-Rod

I found that a teflon tape works fine instead of this teflon ring. And the teflon tape is much easier to put it around the thread and as a string in the ring's place. There is a lot of work to put the teflon ring in place, and some special tool is needed for that.

If Rod does not mind, I can send you those files by e-mail. send me a request to idjikaity@yahoo.com

I don't mind one bit, as long as you don't charge them for the information.

-Rod

I don't mind one bit, as long as you don't charge them for the information.
-Rod
There is no question about charging for the info that was so kindly shared with me by you. Rod (Thank you again!). I did not even think about that...

I just started another thread, but since you and other people still read this thread, I would like to post my question here as well:
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I seem to have successfully replaced the clutch on my AC compressor, recharged the system and now everything seems to work fine, except that the AC compressor engages when I turn just the blower motor on, namely when I set the switch in the bi-level position (marked with arrows going to legs and face). Can this happen because I put too much R-134a in the system? Does anybody know how to properly check the pressure in the system by using that AC manifold pressure gauge (with the red, blue and yellow hoses) that one can rent at Autozone?
Thanks in advance!
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Could you please give me some advice here?

Often the bi-level position is floor and defrost. I'd have to check the flow from the service manual. If it's using the defrost position, it may also be engaging the AC compressor as part of the defrost.

-Rod

How do I remove the connectors in the AC line?

Welcome to the forum!

Are you referring to the spring log connectors that Ford has used for several years? There are tools for these which can be found at most parts stores and even some of the larger Sears stores. You need to be sure the system has been evacuated first though.

-Rod

When you take the spring log connector apart does it allow you to replace the orifice tube or is the orifice tube some where else in the system?

You're correct, the factory service manual (for the 2002 model year anyway) states that you need to remove the compressor to change the field coil and clutch. It also suggests replacing the evaporator core orifice as well as the accumulator.

The steps to remove the compressor include removing the power steering pump. There are a lot of diagrams in the service manual steps. If you send me a Private Message with an e-mail address for you, I'll e-mail you a PDF of the steps from the 2002 service manual. I do not have the 2001 service manual.

-Rod
Do you know if the procedure is the same for the 1999 3.0 DOHC to remove the compressor? I have to replace mine as it seized up and I don't see an "easy" way to do the job. Thanks.

Hello, my boyfriend replaced my ac compressor and the ac hose assembly and the serpentine belt on my 2002 Ford Taurus-6cyl. Is the ac hose assembly the same thing as the accumulator dehydrator or receiver dryer? Also he was unable to put in the orifice tube as he did not know where it went and had already put the car back together so now I have to go have that done professionally somewhere. My question is: He did not flush the system out before putting in the new parts. I read the instruction sheet that came with the compressor and I know this MUST be done. Is it too late? Can the shop that puts in my orifice tube do the ac flush? Will it require removing all the parts that my boyfriend put in? Or can they just disconnect the refrigerant lines and do it that way. Instructions say the lines and the evaporator both need to be flushed prior to use. What do you think is a fair cost to flush or vac the system? I got quoted $155 + Freon. Also What do u think is fair price to put orifice tube in? I realize it is a big job to get in there. Lastly.. Does my car even have a condenser? On the instructions that came with compressor it says to change condenser too (if applicable) and that this needs to be flushed as well, if not new. Sorry so many questions I do know alot about cars but need help. I am just making sure my boyfriend is not skipping any important steps because he is frustrated at this point and wants to be done with it. He said no flush/vac was needed because all the parts are new but I disagree. The evaporator and refrig lines are not new and could have metal shavings. Plus I don't think he changed out the clutch and coil. Is that necessary or is that the internal parts of the compressor? Also we did not check the system for leaks yet, this should be done after it is charged correct? The initial problem is that I had no cold air and the guy who sold me the car said it just needed a shot of freon. We ALL know that is NEVER the case but we didn't put the freon in and we drove 5 hours North and my compressor locked up and damaged my serpentine belt Gosh... You probably won't answer all of this but I would truly be indebted to you if you did as best you could. Thank you sooo much!
Sincerely,
Kathy Bouchard

The accumulator/receiver-drier won't necessarily get replaced in the process of changing the lines. They are one in the same and will be connected to the evaporator core at the firewall. The hose that was replaced and connects to the accumulator is probably where the orifice tube should have been installed, either in the hose or in the rigid tube the hose connects to. You will have a condensor, and it is located in front of the cooling system radiator. It looks basically the same as the radiator. A shop should be able to flush the system when they install the orifice tube. The main purpose of the flush is to get any contaminants out of the system so they don't plug the orifice tube or damage the new compressor. Do the instructions with the new compressor state whether or not it was shipped with the correct oil charge already? If not, after the shop installs the orifice tube, connects everything back up, then pulls a vacuum on the system to check for gross leaks, they should install the proper amount of oil as well. They likely would do this anyway after flushing the system.

If the new compressor did not come with a new field coil and clutch assembly, your boyfriend would have used the one from the old compressor. That is not part of the closed refrigerant system but rather the clutch mechanism for the belt drive.

I really don't know what a reasonable price would be to have the system flushed, the orifice tube installed, and then the system evacuated, recharged (including oil) and leak checked.

-Rod

Thanks sooo much you are really helping me a great deal. I really appreciate it and I will tell my bf where you said the orifice tube is and maybe he will do it himself. The shop quoted me almost $400 to put it in and do the vac. I'm wondering if the hose assembly he put in is not the accumulator? Auto zone said in order for the warranty to be 2 years he had to put a new accumulator in so I thought that is what they sold him but on the receipt it says ac hose assembly and it was like $79. It looked like a long pipe with a tank in the middle of it. The pipe kind of twisted left and right it was not straight. It was all black including the small tank. So if he did not change the accumulator then it will have to be vac'd out also right? And the condensor gets vac'd out too? Is this done separately? Yes the compressor DID come with oil in it already but the guy at the shop said it will be vac'd out when they flush the system. I would think it dangerouse to vac out the lines thru the new compressor. All that junk will get in there. Won't it ruin my new compressor??
Kathy

So now that I'm home I checked my Ford factory service manual for the 2002 Taurus and discovered that I didn't correctly state the location of the orifice tube. It's actually in the line between the condenser and the evaporator core. There should be a protective cover over the rigid hose connection and the orifice tube is installed inside that fitting. If you want to send me a Private Message with an e-mail address for you, I'll send you a PDF copy of the orifice tube replacement procedure.

-Rod

Hi, I was wondering if I could get that same pdf from the service manual for the ac compressor removal. my email is allen.chr@husky.neu.edu. thank you! Chris

can somone please send the PDF file to me I need to replace my AC clutch plates as they are grinding and annoying me
thanks so much
any further input is apprieciated
mike