I'm not going to jack my own thread previous, so I'll ask separately. How much fluid is drained when dropping the pan/changing filter? I read 6 quarts here before and refilled with that, but it left me a quart and some change low! Do you actually get 7.5 quarts when dropping?

Installing a B&M drain plug kit too, BTW... Going to go for a spot on the side of the pan instead of the recommended way on the bottom. That'd stick out too much IMO.

In my book, it's written 4.5 quarts when you refill. Depending of the temp of the fluid, of course.

When you check fluid, trans must be very hot, and engine must running.

If you misses, add fluid. It's possible that you have drained more than normal, it's even better.

It talks about fluid changes in your manual? I must have missed that! I've read that thing front to back a couple of times! Of course, I could check the factory service manual I bought on ebay. Duh!! Thanks for the info, Serge!

Yes, it talks about trans fluid change.

What I do, I measure as best I can......the amount of fluid that I take out....and put that same amount back in.
Then I check the fluid (motor running at idle, vehicle on level ground, transmission in PARK) and add as needed.

What I do, I measure as best I can......the amount of fluid that I take out....and put that same amount back in.
Then I check the fluid (motor running at idle, vehicle on level ground, transmission in PARK) and add as needed.

I am able do the majority of my work at the Army Auto Craft shop, very fortunately. I can put it on a lift, and I have access to any tool I need, most of which I don't even own! When doing the fluid change, they issue you a rolling oil change pan with the long upright neck, with a large rectangular pan on top for the trans pan. There's no way to measure the amount of fluid released this way unfortunately. So I'm going with my experience from last time, by adding 7.5 quarts, driving for a while, then checking the stick and add from there. I think that'll get me in the ballpark. I'm still surprised that dropping the pan gets that much fluid!

My pan was full of darkish fluid, but not NEARLY the amount of metal sludge like last time (which was the first post-rebuild fluid change at 28K). The magnet held a lot of stuff, which is normal. I went with the 'severe service' 21K interval this time. Also drilled the pan for the B&M universal plug kit. Worked like a charm, and everything is tight as a drum. The spot I picked ended up directly across from the oil drain plug, so getting that off was pretty tight. The AutoZone replacement plug I put in there last time started rounding off, though, so I had to stop the oil change. I'll get a Motorcraft replacement (that isn't so soft- I had the original one until last OCI at 112K and never had trouble) and pry it off with vice grips. That'll teach me to go with the cheap Chinese-made replacement! Will post cell phone pics of the plug install soon. Couldn't find any when I was looking!

There's no way to measure the amount of fluid released this way unfortunately.

For that, it's possible to use empty cola plastic bottles of 20 ounce. Then put all the fluid drained in the bottles through a funnel.

Each bottle equal 0.625 quarts.

For that, it's possible to use empty cola plastic bottles of 20 ounce. Then put all the fluid drained in the bottles through a funnel.

Each bottle equal 0.625 quarts.

Either that or I could take a large bucket and mark off every 2 quarts using a large measuring cup and water. Unfortunately these oil change containers have other people's used oil in them before I get it. I never seem to get an empty one. Maybe someday I'll drop the pan into the bucket and figure it out for good.

I have an 01 and when I did the tranny oil and filter change, seems to me I used 14 or 15 quarts of Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF. BY the time you flush all the lines out and empty the pan, a lot of oil comes out. Seems to me you waste a bit by flushing, but you get most of the old oil out which makes the oil change that much more worth while.

I have an 01 and when I did the tranny oil and filter change, seems to me I used 14 or 15 quarts of Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF. BY the time you flush all the lines out and empty the pan, a lot of oil comes out. Seems to me you waste a bit by flushing, but you get most of the old oil out which makes the oil change that much more worth while.

I didn't flush the lines, only dropped the pan and changed the filter. I do have an answer, though! I had to add 8.25 quarts (8 qts and 4 oz) to get the fluid in the middle of the crosshatched area on the stick. It was the perfect amount. Remember to make sure the vehicle is up to operating temperature, shift through all gears, then leave the engine running and check it. Make sure you're on level ground as well.

You will want to fill it to the top of the full mark......slightly low can cause you to have issues from drawing air instead of fluid from the pan.....particularly when cornering.

I read that in another post; the author mentioned that there was a TSB on it, but I could not find it while web searching. Any search only turned up the summary, not the entire bulletin. I'm thinking it's going to take about half to 3/4 of a quart to get it all the way full from halfway on the crosshatched area.

TSB 99-18-4 issued 09/06/99 "Harsh 3-2 Downshift/Shudder on accelleration/turns.
States that this can be caused by air entering the pickup tube due to low fluid level.
Solution is to fill the fluid level to the TOP of the hash mark area at operating temperature of 150 - 170 degrees F. (Checking fluid with vehicle warm, on level ground, at idle, in PARK).

Correct fluid is now Mercon V rated fluid for all years of windstar.

Wow- thanks for posting the whole thing! Would this apply to a 2003 as well? I guess if the trans is the same, it would do the same thing.

I am guessing that it would be the same for all years.

UPDATE:

Okay, I've added another 12 oz. and am waiting for it to run down the tube so I can get a good reading.

I have another problem now. The stinking oil pan plug that was rounding off will NOT come off. No matter what I use, vice grips, open end or closed end wrench, it's rounding off more and more. I added the trans pan plug, and it ended up a little too close to my oil plug (pardon the cell phone pic):
http://davepear.wordpress.com/files/2009/07/07-01-09_2007.jpg

There's just not enough room to get a 'bolt-off' on there:
http://davepear.wordpress.com/files/2009/07/07-01-09_2009.jpg

You can see how close the two plugs are. I'm not sure if I should drop the pan again, get a new pan and plug and reinstall in another place, or what. I'm not sure how to proceed from here. Any ideas?

I rounded my off one time and the mechanic laughed and pulled out a pipe wrench and twisted it off. Dough! Try a pipe wrench!

I rounded my off one time and the mechanic laughed and pulled out a pipe wrench and twisted it off. Dough! Try a pipe wrench!

Huh! You'd think that being the son of a plumber, I'd have thought of that. Excellent idea!

I hate when it happens.

Try a socket smaller that the original size. And force to grip it. Try both metric and imperial size. It worked for me with my wheel hex bolt.

I hate when it happens.

Try a socket smaller that the original size. And force to grip it. Try both metric and imperial size. It worked for me with my wheel hex bolt.

I've never heard of this. When using the smaller socket, do you angle it so it grips?

I've never heard of this. When using the smaller socket, do you angle it so it grips?
'

you want one barely too sdmall, and you may have tro hammer it on.

'

you want one barely too sdmall, and you may have tro hammer it on.

Exact. You hit the tool w/ a hummer, so it grip.

No angle.

I mean a hammer.

Going in today to put the thing on a lift and get this fixed and finished. I have a fluid pump (http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=3878) from Harbor Freight to remove and recover the fluid I just recently added (no use spending another 75 bucks on fluid since it was changed 2k miles ago), drop the pan, hammer on a 'bolt-off' socket to remove the rounded-off plug, then install a new OEM plug and replace the pan (the B&M universal plug kit didn't work out so well- it's leaking like crazy), then replace the trans pan, and fill the trans and oil sump. At least that's the plan. Will post an update later.

The job is done and all went well. That little fluid pump rocks!!! I got most of the trans fluid out, but had to use the B&M plug to get the rest recovered from the pan. The pump won't get all of the fluid out. I suppose it would make a pan drop/filter change less messy, but it left so much fluid that I had to open the plug to get more, which left about 3/4 of a quart in the pan. I had some trouble getting the hose to the bottom of the trans; it wouldn't go down anymore. Otherwise it went well.

Another thing I wanted to mention is that I pulled out about 9 quarts of fluid when I siphoned out the pan and poured the remaining fluid from the dropped pan. That's how much fluid one should buy when doing a pan drop/filter change. I even lost some when I pulled the filter!

Wiswind's pointer earlier in this thread is true even for my '03- you have to get the fluid level all the way to the top of the dipstick fill area (the crosshatched area) so you don't get slipping on turns when it sucks in air. Don't forget- check the trans fluid level when the engine is to it's operating temp (about halfway on the gauge), on level ground, after going through each gear, and keep it running for the check. Totally opposite of checking your oil.