I have a rattle under my accord @ aprox 2000 rpm. I got it stopped but had to wire the exhaust pipe over to a frame member. I do not believe this is the correct answer. I have read on here that some guys just take off the sheild.This was not the case with mine. It seems the entire exhaust system is vibrating. What i cannot understand, is the exhaust pipe coming from the engine is solid mounted by a metal support without any rubber ....just metal to metal coming down from the rear of the engine. I have never in all my days of cars seen such a mount. I am guessing this is where the rattle is coming from. Anyone else have anything to offer in the way of a true fix.

you'll have to diy and get under there and see where it's hitting metal-to-metal...

we cant look at your car thru the internet unless you post vids/ pics of your entire system

in my wife's honda, it was hitting the body of the car & fixed it myself

you'll have to diy and get under there and see where it's hitting metal-to-metal...

we cant look at your car thru the internet unless you post vids/ pics of your entire system

in my wife's honda, it was hitting the body of the car & fixed it myself

well ricebike....if you would have read my post in its entirety, you would have realized that i have already been under my car and fixed the rattle. Perhaps just not the correct fix.:screwy:

oh so what did u do?

because on hondas of this generation, 94-97, they have a "flex pipe" then the rest of the system is hanging off the body via rubber hangers and rods welded to the exhaust pipe

:uhoh::uhoh:

If it's shield noise you can buy oversize screw-type hose clamps and wrap them around the shields to fix broken spot welds or bolts...

If it's actually pipe noise vibrating against body or something, lotta times the hanger arms ricebike mentioned will get bent and allow the system to get pushed over out of line, and you just gotta bend them back into shape. Also as he said there is two rubber donuts up near the front, ahead of the cat...is one arm is bent or a donut is missing, the whole system will lay to one side and vibrate against the tunnel..then there's some more of the same as you go towards the rear...but the front ones cause the most noise problems in my dealings with them...

http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/catimgs/13SV40_B0201.gif

There's a lotta parts to these systems. I guess #10 is the one you were looking at? That's ahead of the flex pipe, just holds the leading pipe solid to the motor. The donuts take it from there. #27 and #15 like to get damaged in bottom-out incidents, and then the pipe will lay to one side or too high in the tunnel....but they can be bent back into shape...

Yes..jeffcoslacker..the #10 hanger is the one that makes no sense to me at all. Why would they have this pipe(so close to the engine), solid mounted. I am betting my a$$ that this is where most peoples troubles migrate from. I am 49 yrs. old and have never seen anything like it....and ive been working on cars/trucks in my back yard for 35 of these years. I see no other bent arms etc. along the system. Like I stated before...it seems as if my whole system is vibrating. I can press on the system anywhere and get it to stop making noise. I guess my question for honda is...why would a car so small need to have so much complication to the exhaust system? I suspect this vibration is a very common problem with many peoples hondas. I may just remove that #10 bracket or at least rubber mount it somehow.Not too sure what else to do. Thanks for the schematic and the accurate response.

You don't wanna remove it or isolate it, the idea is that it keeps the manifold from taking a lotta vibration that would wear the mounting studs to the head...these engines vibe a lot, which is the reason for all the complexity. Holding that pipe firmly and making it move with the engine is critical. Put rubber on it, and it will shake out of phase with the engine and wear on the connection to the motor and flex pipe quick, would be my guess. Plus creating another source of secondary vibration.

The manifold and lead pipe are held firmly so they move with the motor by #10. Then the flex pipe isolates them to some degree from the sympathetic vibrations of the entire system from there back...plus you have to remember these motors torque fore and aft a lot, which would also ruin a connection and break studs if not for the flex pipe and having the lead pipe solidly mounted to the motor.

My guess is you may be running into a problem with motor mounts or the roll restrictor behind the motor if no cause on the exhaust itself is seen...it may be allowing too much engine movement and either torquing the exhaust into the body or allowing too much engine vibration to transfer to the exhaust system....kind of common on older Hondas too...

Two questions: Can you hear it only in gear and moving or in park/neutral also?

And is it just since beginning to use the A/C, or does A/C use make it worse?

You may want to try having someone brake torque the car in gear to the rpm where the vibe occurs while you look under it, and see if there is any unusual amount of engine movement happening (lateral twisting or excessive rolling)...the motor should only pitch fore and aft an inch or two, with no diagonal twisting under load...

The automatics use a fluid filled motor mount that works like a shock absorber to absorb vibrations...when they go bad they don't do their job very well and allow a lot of primary vibration through...

Man...finally a guy that knows his stuff!
It does this in park @ 200rpm and it does it while rolling down the road @2000rpm
I thought about the engine mounts. This car has 370km on it. I think you hit the nail on the head with the engine mounts. I will check them. Is there a visual check that can be done to see if these m mounts are bad? I will check on the A/C question.Thanks for the thorough insight. Do you want my left one or my right LOL

If I remember right, the fluid mount allows fluid through a transfer orifice to quell vibrations up to around 1000 rpm, at which point the ECM closes a solenoid in the mount and it then operates as a typical mount.

I guess if it fails open, it could allow excessive engine movement above 1000 rpm. If it fails closed, it would create a harsh idle vibe. I'm sorry I don't know the specific test to figure it out...

If it's any consolation, it seems that around 2000 rpm, the engine vibe hits the natural resonance freq for the exhaust system on these...most of the noise problems I've encountered seem to crop up at that rpm. Driving my wife's '95 earlier today, I found if I played with the throttle to make it linger around 2000 rpm without upshifting, I could get some weird resonances outta the exhaust system, particularly with a cold engine.

A while back we had a noise like someone was cutting sheet metal with a circular saw under the car at that same speed...it was the upper shield on the cat. I dinged it with a hammer hard enough to dent it, and the sound went away...I love big hammer fixes...