kais3

My check engine light came on, the code is a misfire on cylinder #2 I have replaced spark plug and wire and the light is still on. tonight i will test to see if i am getting a spark to the spark plug. If every thing is working as it should I will take it down to get a compression test.
Are there any other suggestion as to what could be causing this problem?
I am preparing my self mentaly for an engine overhaul ooo boy this will be fun

96 geo metro 3cylinder 1L 207,000miles.

Johnny Mullet

The compression test will reveal that answer. You probably have a burnt valve. Look here for lots of help rebuilding the engine..............
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=938134

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kais3

well the worst is here. the compression readings are 140 30 and 130 so now i will begin a massive studing of the posts and haynes model to prepare for the rebuild.
Thanks johnny for all of those thread links, that is some really good information and will be my holy grail for the next week or so.

Johnny Mullet

You can do it!

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Woodie83

Don't loose the oil restrictor/check valve thingy that's in the block between the timing belt end of the engine and the # 1 cylinder. Also, compare the head gasket to the oil drainback holes in the head and the block, most gaskets need to be opened up a little.

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Woodie

98 Metro and 06 Aerio SX

DOCTORBILL

Have a look at the INDEXUS METROGLODITUS .....

funracer

I just rebuilt my 1.0 in March. The Haynes Manual does not have nearly as much info as you need to rebuild the motor yourself. The Chiltons and the factory service manual are much better for a DIY engine rebuild. You can find the factory service manual on Ebay.

Good luck with you project. Don't forget to change the front crank seal
while you are in there. I didn't and had to go back and get it.

Regards

kais3

thanks for the info guys, I will buy the chiltion manual today. I cleaned the engine labled all the hoses, removed the intake manifold and valve cover on sunday. the only problem was that dang valve cover, who invented those round nuts under the locking nuts? I spent two hours trying to figure out why the valve cover would not come off. hitting it with rubber malat, hitting it with wood block cutting the gasket with double edged razor.
I think it was the third beer that told me to use needle nose plers on the round thing that did not look right.

Here is a ? on the front of my engine above the oil pan I have a bunch of threaded holes with no bolts in them are they suppose to be empty?

timing belt, exhaust manifold and head off tonight 7 days untill the deadline.

DOCTORBILL

Have you done this sort of thing before?

If not, then maybe this will help you....maybe....

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=613410

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=645309

Have a look - this is my rebuild with pictures - for what it is worth.

If you have rebuilt engines before, then - have fun.

I sent you a Private Message.

DoctorBill

kais3

No I have not done this type of thing before.

Thank you I am quite familar with these threads you all have done an excellent job making this seem feasable.

Are there any suggustions tips on how to remove the crankshaft center nut? I can not keep the pully from turning. I will try a chain wrench tonight if i can find one 3 stores last night had nothing of the sort.

TIP: checker has a deal now were you can rent tools for 48hr and get a full refund on them. free tool rental, hip hip herra for checker.

funracer

Do a search for "Crank Sprocket" for the procedure. I just did it last weekend. You use the starter to do the work. It works pretty good although I did have to do it three times before it came loose.

One of the best tips I got on this board was to remove the flywheel cover (2 10mm bolts just to the right side of the oil pan) and stick a thin screw driver in the teeth to lock the engine internals when the time comes to put the crank bolt back in. Of course don't forget and leave it in there because that could be bad.

Sounds like you are moving along pretty quick.
Good luck!

kais3

Alright working on the car is a lot less stressfull than not working on it. I got everything off last night with no misshaps.

I did not have any ridges on my cylinder walls nothing smooth as silk. there was 3mm of carbon at the top but no ridge. So now that i am not working on the car why is this? Is this bad?

also I may have pulled a dumb dumb move i just put a plastic bag over the oil pan crankshaft area and 30mph winds all day i may be spending the next 2 weeks cleaning out my engine.

1st stupid thing done: check

Doctorbill and partcipents excelent excelent post on how to hone cylinders and measure ring gap.

Cleaning things tonight and honing tommorow.

kais3

aawww! I was cleaning the piston, holding on to the arm and now it shifts in the skirt side to side. the hole that goes threw the skirt shifts also so one side will be resessed in a bit.

Is this suppose to happen? it sure does not sound good it is a loud knock when it shifts.

kais3

Why is it important not to scratch the piston skirt?

my scotch dish pad would turn this into a 10 min project.

Crvett69

the piston is supposed to shift side to side and rock. you can carefully clean the top of the piston with skotch pad but don't use it on the sides. piston is aluminum and if you skuff it up it will remove material so that piston will be to loose in the block. also make sure you get the ring grooves perfectly clean and check pistons carefully for cracks