y2kflh

92 Accord died and wont start.
Has spark at all 4 plugs, can hear fuel pump when key tyrned on, have fuel pressure at rail. Engine light comes on and goes out after a few secs on key on. When originally died gave DTC 1, O2 sensor, but that shouldn't keep from starting. Cleared codes, now no codes after turning over repeatedly. Compression between 120-150 and belt seems fine. Don't think I can hear the injectors click when turning. Checked power to injector resistors is fine with key on. Injector resistors read 0 ohms but my meter only reads in 10s of ohms so I don't think that's it, and why would all 4 legs of resistor o at once? think its my meter. All fuses fine.

I'm thinking ECU or a sensor but a sensor should pull a DTC right? Also read somewhere a bad ecu would keep the engine light out on key on.

Anyone have any advice?

Airjer_

Don't these have a set of resistors for the injectors near the drivers strut tower?

__________________

y2kflh

yeah checked the resistors but my meter wasn't the best and I didnt trust it.

Update: changed fuel filter, plugs and valve cover gasket because I had to anyway, and I found the plug holes were full of oil. Got the car to start, but died again. Read DTC again and this time got 16, Fuel Injector.

Probably gonna leave it alone for the night and go at it again tomorrow. Wish I could get ahold of my bro inlaw the Honda mechanic!

y2kflh

Figured it out. Word to the wise: when more than one issue is found seemingly unrelated to the failure mode, it usually is related after all.

When checking the compression yesterday I noticed the plug holes full of oil and replaced the plugs and valve cover gasket and cleaned the holes and boots. It did fire and run rough then die afterwards, and it looked like I had spark, so I figured I was done with that.

When I checked under the distributor cap originally the cap and rotor looked pretty burned up but not worse than a lot I've seen. And I've never seen a cap and rotor make a car die and not start. Plus I had spark (weak spark in hindsight) so I went looking elsewhere.

Turns out the oil in the plug holes must have made the resistance at the plugs so low that it fouled the cap and rotor enough to reduce spark strength until the car wouldn't run. So even after I corrected the oil in the hole problem it still was too weak.

Replaced the cap and rotor today and all is well.

SO plugs, valve cover gasket, cap, rotor, fuel filter, all things it needed anyway were a LOT cheaper and easier than if I had decided to swap the ECU or fuel pump.

y2kflh

One more note, neither trouble code, first the o2 then the injector were obvious clues!