reefgeorge

I am looking for a hitch for my 2003 RAV4 to pull mostly a small landscaper type wire mesh trailer for hauling sod/fertilizer/wood. Brands being considered are Hidden Hitch, Curt, and Draw Tight with a class III Curt in the lead because it's the best deal.

What considerations are there for brand, class, and ball mount type (drop, etc.) to make sure that I get proper clearance for the rear door/tire, and the ground and acceptable quality?

Do I care about the 1.5" vs 2" receiver tube diameter of class I/II vs class III?

Thanks,

George

jdmccright

Not sure if you've already made the decision yet, but I'll chime in just to help close this out.

Brand isn't so much an issue...any hitch designed to tow in its class rating will do so. Some other aspects would be the quality of build, corrosion resistance, and aesthetics (i.e. "hidden hitch" style). I would look for solid construction where all pieces have complete welds...no spot or stitch welds that could be stress points or potential ingress points for water.

I've read that the OEM hitch is better since it uses many more connection points (17 bolts) than the aftermarket ones (4 bolts). This is to help distribute the stress of towing over more of the RAV's unibody structure. For light loads it may not be an issue, but I'd consider it if you think you may be pulling more in the future.

Since all of these are typically made from plain steel, also ask about the paint used. An electrocoated (submerged in a paint bath and then baked) hitch will have better corrosion resistance than the typical powdercoated ones, but will probably cost more too. If PC is your only option, then pay extra attention to the build quality. Weld spatter, sharp edges, and incomplete weld seams all can mean early coating failure. While a personal peeve of mine, I'd like it if they capped off the ends of the cross-tube to prevent water getting in there, plus it looks nicer.

As far as hitch class goes, your RAV4 with a 4-cylinder can't tow more than ~1,500 lbs (I can't find the actual tow rating), so Class I would be sufficient. You'll still have to run trailer wiring. But I'll stress that buying a 2,000-lb rated hitch doesn't up your RAV's abilities...you're still limited to 1,500 lbs.

Finally, clearance for the rear door and spare tire will depend on the trailer's tongue design, but in general the hitch drop should be enough to allow the trailer to sit more or less level. Doubt you'll find a utility trailer with a tongue long enough to allow the door to swing completely open, but you never know. Good luck!

__________________
Current Garage:
2003 Pontiac Vibe 1.8L AWD
2003 GMC Envoy XL (aka "fat-a$$") - K&N air filter, otherwise stock.
1995 Chevrolet C2500 2wd, 5.7L - K&N air filter, otherwise stock...my weekend hauler.
1992 Toyota Camry LE 2.2L - K&N air filter.

Vehicle History:
2004 4.7L Dakota Quad Cab 4x4
1996 GMC Jimmy 4wd
1992 Chevrolet S10 Ext. Cab 4.3L
1995 Honda ST1100...my first (and only) new vehicle.
1980 Yamaha XS400
1980 Mercury Bobcat...my first car.

reefgeorge

I settled on a 4 bolt Curt class III hitch with a 2" receiver tube from JC Whitney. Great build quality, good finish, perfect fit, good hardware. I got a T connector harness from eTrailer.com. Works great.