ksubenny

Ok so here's what happened. As I was replacing the camshaft position sensor on my 95 blazer with horizontal distributor cap, I bumped the starter to rotate the distributor around so the slots would align and I could remove the sensor. At this point I had one screw out and one screw slightly engaged....and it wasn't engaged enough and the sensor caught on that metal cup that the rotor mounts to, it rotated about 20 degrees and bent part of that metal mounting plate. I got the old sensor out(now broke) and installed the new one and thought I had that mounting surface flat and aligned, but when I got everything hooked back up and tried to start it....no go. It will turn over and crank fine, and it will catch but it only sounds like its firing on either 1 or possibly 2 cylinders. The rotor is keyed so it can't go on backwards, and I numbered the wires and I double checked those and the plug wires are hooked up correctly. I've taken the distributor back off about 3 times trying to work on the metal mounting plate and can't seem to make any progress. I'm guessing that the rotor mounting plate is tweaked enough for the rotor not to align properly and therefore the spark can't transfer from the rotor to the cap. Did I ruin the distributor and now have to replace that as well....or is there something else that may be happening here? I'm going to have to see if I can borrow one of the neighbor's cars tomorrow if I need to go and get a distributor, which is going to be complicated by it being Sunday. Any help would be greatly appreciated, as this is my only car and can probably borrow a vehicle from the neighbor for a parts run, but really need it running for work on Monday.

rhandwor

Hold your finger over No.1 plug hole have somebody bump the starter. When you feel air stop I've missed and had to do it over. Anyway rotate the crankshaft until you are at zero degrees. Back if you feel you passed it or forward. After you do it a few times its easier. Next find No.1 sparkplug hole and set it this way after you reinstall the distributor. Usually you may have to rotate the distributor slightly as somebody is trying to start the vehicle.
Then follow the manual and use a timing light and set the timing.
Its easier than you think just stay relaxed.

MT-2500

Flat top dist cap right?

If you have bent the metal ring where it catches the sensor or is lose your best bet is another dist.

Does the rotor still rotate when cranking engine?
Does the coil put out good spark.

Setting a dist.
As said you need to find no 1 cyl TDC compression stroke and line up the crank pluley time mark.
Make double sure you are on compression stroke and that the piston is at TDC.

Then set dist as in picture.
http://files.automotiveforums.com/ga...hp?photo=51302

It should start and run if set right as in picture.

On the flat top style the dist/engine timing is not adjustable.
But after you get engine started and running you will need to check and set the camshaft retard setting.
It requires a engine capable scanner to set it.
Set as close to 0 degrees - or + as you can get it.

__________________
Remember proper testing gives us the answer to many problems.
MT

ksubenny

Ok so I've got the distributor off...took me a bit of contortions on my part to see the top of the hold down bolt to realize that it has an SAE headstamp and that explained why I couldn't get a 14mm on it and a 15 was too sloppy....its not metric. The metal mounting plate does have a fair amount of play in it so I'm going to attempt to find an autoparts store open on Sunday that has it in stock, and while I'm at it I'm going to go ahead and replace the rotor and distributor as well, they've both been on for about 70k miles. I'm not too worried about getting it reinstalled and timed correctly, I've done that before on other vehicles, just not on this and since you don't set timings with the angle of the distributor it should be even easier. But thanks for the help guys, I'm off to start calling auto parts stores and then to hopefully find a car I can borrow.

MT-2500

Set it as in the picture posted and it should start and run.
And do the final camshaft retart setting with a scanner.
Good luck and let us know how it goes.

__________________
Remember proper testing gives us the answer to many problems.
MT

ksubenny

Well thanks to Chevy using this distributor for only the 1995 blazer and Sonoma's......nobody stocks it so it'll be Tuesday until I can get one...not exactly what I was wanting to find out, but I'll post back with more updates as they develop.

MT-2500

What is different on it?
Just the housing mounting ear?
The inside parts are interchangable on them.
If it is a have to get running deal and if your housing is good you can get a rebuilt dist and transfer parts from rebuilt dist to your housing.
Or most the different housing mounting clamps can be changed around and get different ones to work.
Let us know how it goes.
Good luck

__________________
Remember proper testing gives us the answer to many problems.
MT

ksubenny

So I got the new distributor, cap and rotor, set engine to TDC and after a couple shots of trying to figure out which tooth I need to engage the distributor in so that things line up due to having helical teeth it fired right off. I have to take it into the local dealership tomorrow to get camshaft retard set since I don't have an engine capable scanner at this point and nobody else that I know with short driving distance does either, but thats on my list of things to get in the future. Thanks for all the help

MT-2500

You are welcome.
Glad you got it running.
Thanks for posting back how it went,

If you have a good locaql general repair shop in your area they may give you a better deal price wise on setting the camshaft retard.
Good luck

__________________
Remember proper testing gives us the answer to many problems.
MT