WIP: R35 GT-R Showdown: Tamiya vs Aoshima vs Fujimi

I'm sure many modelers are interested in the differences between R35 kits from Tamiya, Aoshima and Fujimi, so here I present you a brief review of those kits.

I have some other projects to finish, so the actual progress will be slow, but I should be able to answer to any questions in regards to the content of the kits.

Keep in mind that photographs are NOT a good reference when nitpicking details, because of lens distortion and photographing environment play a major role in fooling your eyes. I did use a tripod, but each model wasn't placed on a marked position or a jig.

I obtained the R35 body repair manual, which details the dimensions of the actual car. After quick measuring, all three bodies are fairly accurate, and the margin of error is less than 1.0mm. The only exception is Tamiya. The body is wider by approximately 1.0 mm both sides, compared to Aoshima or Fujimi.

< Front View >
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b258/hirofkd/r35/r3501.jpg
Tamiya body is made of the main shell, front bumper and hood, and they all fit well, but requires some masking.

Aoshima made the front and rear bumpers separate, as well as the rocker panels, hood, and the grill. This kit is the Premium version, and the body of the standard version (Best Car GT No.28) is modled in grey. Aoshima's rear bumper is deformed from cooling, but it can be corrected by careful bending. The back side of the hood need to be sanded for the part to sit on the body properly. The separate grill makes painting easier than Tamiya or Fujimi.

Fujimi did every exterior panel separate, including the hood, front and rear bumpers, front and rear lip spoilers, rocker panels and hood. Fujimi also shows good attention to details, by opening only the right side (driver side in JDM) of the lower part of the grill, which channels air to the oil cooler. (Located on the opposite side is the washer fluid tank, so no need for an air intake.) Fitting of exterior parts is perfect, but gluing may be tricky to the beginners because the joining surfaces are a bit small.


< Rear View >
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b258/hirofkd/r35/r3502.jpg
Looking at the back of actual models, Tamiya seems wider, while Aoshima seems narrower, and Fujimi is in-between. They all look like the GT-R, and I don't think bodies aren't going to be a deciding factor of which to buy. Tamiya and Aoshima kits come with four-piece rear wring, while the Fujimi includes an additional clear part for the brake light.


< Suspension and Brakes >
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b258/hirofkd/r35/r3503.jpg
Suspension and brake details are where Fujimi outshines the competition. Tamiya's suspension parts fit well, but look just okay. As always, caliper and rotor are molded together, and the rotor doesn't even have ventilation holes, demanding you to buy the PE parts.

Aoshima made the rotor separate (for the first time, IIRC), and the joining surface is large enough, so putting the caliper parts together won't be so hard. With Aoshima, lowering the ride height requires no modification to the kit parts. All you have to do is to add a washer to the lower control arms, something a first-time modeler can do.

Fujimi did some incredible job for the kit price of 2800 yen. The rotor is two-piece assembly, and it's got circular scratches molded on the surface! The calipers look gorgeous, and it even has two pins that fix the brake pad retainer. I've noticed that each rotor doesn't sit in the middle of the caliper (because the pads are not molded), so I suggest that you scratchbuild a washer of appropriate thickness. and insert it between the upright and rotor to fix this problem. This will also adjust/correct how deep each tire sits in relative to the body panel, so make sure you dry fit these parts.


< Chassis >
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b258/hirofkd/r35/r3504.jpg
Tamiya and Aoshima chassis are moderately detailed, and easy to build. Fujimi includes front and rear sub-frames, so they are far more enjoyable to build even though they will be hidden.


< Interior >
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b258/hirofkd/r35/r3505.jpg
Only Tamiya gives the choice of right and left hand dashboard (and corresponding wiper parts), while Aoshima and Fujimi are right-hand only. In the past, Aoshima marketed LH steering kits (such as RX-7 and Z33), so we might see such variation someday. All three kits have separate side panels with good three-dimensional details. Tamiya includes chrome plated door handle, but the door panel seems elongated and inaccurate. Aoshima features nicely-molded speakers for Bose premium sound system.


< Dashboard >
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b258/hirofkd/r35/r3506.jpg
Tamiya's dashboard is least detailed, and the dimensions of the display and center control panel are inaccurate. The pedals don't have any details, because the separately-sold PE set does.

Aoshima seems most accurate, except for the height of the display.

Fujimi doesn't seem bad, but the gauge panel should be pushed in further.

Decals are provided in each kit, but Fujimi's multi-function display is "turned off", meaning no decal for it.


< Seat and Interior Misc. >
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b258/hirofkd/r35/r3507.jpg
Although not pictured here, seats are another turn-on, turn-off factor. Tamiya's seat is thin and narrow, but the bottom element is separate, allowing you to choose either the RH or LH configuration.

Aoshima seat is two piece design, which includes a separate back panel.

Fujimi's seat is three-piece assembly, and looks most accurate. Interesting feature of Fujimi interior is the separate center and backsupport in the rear. You can to add a gigantic amp and speakers, without removing the seat details on the kit part. ;)


< Wheel & Tire >
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b258/hirofkd/r35/r3508.jpg
The diameters of Tamiya and Aoshima wheels are accurate, while Fujimi wheel is 1 scale inch bigger (exactly what their "inch-up" series kits should have). Tamiya tires look nice, but too wide to my taste. It doesn't have any logo either.

Aoshima's tire profile is too low, making the overall diameter too small. The brand is Pirelli P7000, which is not correct, but at least it's not a generic low-speed tire.

Fujimi tires are deliberately low-profiled to match the kit's "inch-up" theme, but the overall tire/wheel diameter is kept accurate, so it odoesn't affect the ride height. Each tire has Bridgestone and Potenza logos on both sides, as well as the tire size designation, but both sides have the lettering "outside." (LOL)

< Decals + extra >
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b258/hirofkd/r35/r3509.jpg
Tamiya's misc. bag includes decals, metal transfers, nylon mesh and pre-cut window masking adhesives.

Aoshima kit doesn't come with any nifty extra, but all the necessary decals are provided. My kit includes another sheet of decals, and apparently, it was because the red on the other sheet was slightly mis-aligned. Good thing, Aoshima corrected the error.

Fujimi's offering is comparable to Tamiya's. It comes a sheet of decals, which includes all the Japanese registration stickers and license plates with individual letters and numbers. Instead of a nylon mesh you find in the Tamiya kit, Fujimi molded the corresponding parts see-through, which is becoming a Fujimi standard--good practice to satisfy both the budget-conscious and detail-oriented modelers.

< Metal Transfer >
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b258/hirofkd/r35/r3510.jpg
Tamiya and Fujimi's metal transfers include mirror faces, GT-R badges, and Nissan badges. Tamiya has an extra Nissan badge for the top of the engine, while the Fujimi includes the chrome trim on the bumper. "NISSAN" decal that goes on the badge is provided in both kits.

Aoshima's GT-R and Nissan badges are molded on the body. You can also see how Aoshima represented the mesh.


< Conclusion >
So, which kit design would you prefer--precise Tamiya, simple Aoshima, or detailed Fujimi?

My pick is Fujimi, for accuracy and overall value of the kit.

Here's a my quick compatibility list. I hope it helps you determine which kit suits your need.

Buy Tamiya if you...
...have lots of money.(3800 yen + 1365 extra for PE & exhaust tip)
...want left-hand steering.
...want engine details (regardless of the level of detail).
...prefer a wider body (approx. +2.0mm).
...prefer wider tires (F:+2.8mm, R:+1.7mm)

Buy Aoshima if you...
...are budget conscious.(2800 yen)
...prefer fewer parts for simple / faster building.
...want to lower the ride-height effortlessly.
...are going to replace the wheels/tires.
...can live with decals instead of metal transfer

Buy Fujimi if you...
...are budget conscious.(2800 yen)
...are detail conscious.
...know the basics of cleaning and dry-fitting parts.
...prefer many parts for more fulfilling pleasure of building.
...prefer the "inch-up" appearance of the stock wheel (21 scale inch)
...prefer better looking tires with Bridgestone and Potenza logos.



< Reference (Wheel & Tire dimensions in millimeter) >
Real Car
Wheel:
(F) 20 x 9.5J (22.7 x 10.1 w/ 18mm flange)
(R) 20 x 10.5J (22.7 x 11.1 w/ 18mm flange)
Tire:
(F) 255/45ZRF20 (tire width/dia: 10.6/approx: 30.7)
(R) 285/35ZRF20 (tire width/dia: 11.9/approx: 29.5)

Tamiya
Wheel Dia: 23.0 (F,R) Error: negligible
Tire Dia: 30.5 (F,R) Error: negligible
Tire Wid: 12.3 (F) +1.7
Tire Wid: 13.7 (R) +1.8

Aoshima
Wheel Dia: 23.0 (F,R) Error: negligible
Tire Dia: 27.8 (F,R) -2.9/-1.7
Tire Wid: 12.3 (F) +1.7
Tire Wid: 13.0 (R) +1.1

Fujimi
Wheel Dia: 23.8 (F,R) +1.13mm
Tire Dia: 30.5 (F) Error: negligible
Tire Dia: 30.7 (R) +1.2
Tire Wid: 10.5 (F) Error: negligible
Tire Wid: 12.0 (R) Error: negligible

Excellent write-up, Hiro. This will definitely help those folks looking to buy the GT-R kit. Looks like Fujimi's upped their game while I was away.

So now the question is, when are you going to show us what you have planned for all 3 of these? I know they won't all be built the same way.

This thread should almost be stickied!

You made my decision. I shall go with the Fujimi and Aoshima one day.

Thanks for the comparo; very interesting. I'm looking forward to getting the Fujimi kit; I really like how my Tamiya GTR built up and looks finished, but it's for a magazine review so I didn't buy it; if it were my own money I'd have likely gone w/the Fujimi. MSRP for the Tamiya GTR and P/E set is $84.50. I can get a Fujimi GTR for well under half that amount.

It is disappointing to see the Fujimi front bumper; not everyone wants to install a front plate and they pretty much force you to, not only with open holes but a flattened section...that's really lame :disappoin

Coincidentally, I seem to have taken a photo that's quite a decent match for yours (almost...)

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b258/hirofkd/r35/r3501.jpg
http://xff.xanga.com/c1cc622311030205225722/w159514687.jpg

I think you should setup a company for this...

your company's name is 'model kits accuracy / quality control of japan'!!!

you really go deep into every GTR to find out their qualities & shortcomings, commendable!!!

yes, you have decided for me too on which GTR35 i'm gonna get soon...FUJIMI!
no doubt i don't like the way they package the same damn kit into many decal variants just to flood the market but this one is exceptional. this is the first time we, the modelors, seen a 3 head-on kit comparison on the same era! now we know who's slacking behind & who's going for a kill!

tamiya, you're lacking & falling back & pricing higher & higher...forecast market share @ 30%. shares outlook = sell

aoshima, good...no change, low standard all the way...forecast market share @ 10% shares outlook = hold

fujimi, ditch the many decal but one car type concept & start winning comments, like this one...forecast market share @ 50%. shares outlook = BUY!!!

hehe...:evillol:

(p/s the last 10% has quitted modeling!)

Thank you very much for the detailed review. This should help everybody with choosing the right kit. I would definitely ditch the Tamiya, the pricing is just pathetic. Fujimi really did advance within the last year and delivers top notch kits nowadays that are reasonably priced, too.

This review should also help aftermarket transkit developers to choose the kit that has the most potential. Likely it's going to be the Fujimi. Many seperate parts makes it easy to modify and the kit price shouldn't do any harm.

Outlook: instead of buying Tamiya kit + Tamiya PE you could buy Fujimi kit + aftermarket PE + aftermarket transkit + aftermarket (carbon) decals for the same price :naughty:

Just my :2cents:

This review should also help aftermarket transkit developers to choose the kit that has the most potential. Likely it's going to be the Fujimi. Many seperate parts makes it easy to modify and the kit price shouldn't do any harm.


I chose Tamiya's and havn't regretted it yet. I'm somewhat of a Tamiya fan so I tend to use their kits when developing part masters.

Excellent review. Thank you for taking the time to compare them.

Outlook: instead of buying Tamiya kit + Tamiya PE you could buy Fujimi kit + aftermarket PE + aftermarket transkit + aftermarket (carbon) decals for the same price :naughty:

hehe...and maybe still have enough spare change to get a model display base!!!:icon16:

I'll end up with all three of them eventually but it's still nice to know what to look for in each kit. :sunglasse

Thanks for sharing, now i know which two to get once i rob a bank.

Courier: "Letter for Tamiya"

Tamiya: "Hello? Can I help you?"

Courier: "Yes, hello there, message from Fujimi. Fujimi says: Watch out b**ch, here I come!"


My goodness, Though I do absolutely hate the GTR R35 and everything about it, it is nice to see that Tamiya is no longer the top dog with models lately. The detail on the Fujimi is much better than Tamiya, with the Aoshima placing a very close second.

Never thought that fujimi could win a comparision like that... i know your models and really trust in you judgement Hiro. I bought Aoshima, just because the facility to make it lower and also cause aftermaket PE was cheaper than Tamiya..

Who knows the next one can be a Fujimi instead of Aoshima or Tamiya... maybe it's time to review my concepts..

Thanks for your explanation!!

Thanks for the comparo!

To my eyes Tamiya has the best proportioned body, Fuji second.

The Aoshima looks awfully wrong, don't know how they missed it so bad in these modern times.

I'm not a detail nut so I would choose the Tamiya every time regardless of cost... eventhough they really grind me with the plain rotors/ p/e set bait and switch program.:banghead:

this is very informative, btw, u mention aoshima only include decal for emblems, how bout fujimi gt-r, is it decal or metal transfer for the emblem?:)

this is very informative, btw, u mention aoshima only include decal for emblems, how bout fujimi gt-r, is it decal or metal transfer for the emblem?:) Good question. I added a couple of sections for the decals and metal transfers.
I feel like I'm spoiling too many people by showing so many surprises Fujimi has packed in the kit. But trust me, there are plenty more, and they are all good ones.

Here's a little tip for the Fujimi kit. I've seen some Japanese modelers reporting that the front ride height is too high. When I dry fit the kit, I encountered the same problem, only to find later that the knuckles were upside down!

Aoshima's rear bumper is badly deformed. It's not that the bumper was incorrectly designed, but the outside must have shrunk faster than the inside during demolding. To correct this, carefully bend the entire back side, with a little more strength applied to just below the inner taillight circles. Bending the corners won't make it fit.

Don't worry Hiroaki, for spoilers I mean, I love this kind of threads, yesterday I have had same thoughts about Fujimi and their quality with last few kits, they are my number one at the moment.
I know I will get Fujimi, despite big and powerful Tamiya.

I am not interested in these particular kits but I can appreciate teh outstanding review! :worshippy

I hope you will do this more often :)

I don't think you are "spoiling" anything. You are giving people the opportunity to make an informed choice very easily. Thanks :thumbsup:

fantastic, im going for fujimi gt-r, only the front bumper mold with plate bothers me, but fixing that wont be hard :iceslolan

i'm not confident at fujimi's kit last time as i bought few that :banghead:, with your review, im sure fujimi are really getting better and better, hope they continue this way

How about the engines. If im right, at least Tamiya has somekind of molded engine detail, how about others?

aside from the tamiya engine detail, looks like i'll go for the fujimi after getting overdosed on the tuning evo (lancer) series and swearing off fujimi for a while. too bad we only have the tamiya locally, and it's even out of stock at the moment :(

nice writeup hiro!

i 'll translate this article into Chinese,it will help us to make the right decision.though my english is not good,but i have say thank you for your sharing.

My GT-R models have progressed a bit, but nothing significant to show in photos just yet(like basic body prep and priming etc).

In the mean time, Aoshima has announced two new R35 variations what will satisfy many budget-conscious builders.
R35 GT-R w/ Engine (3360 yen) Due out October
R35 GT-R w/ PE (3990 yen) Due out December

This puts the Aoshima's "R35 w/engine" kit almost comparable to Tamiya's in terms of value, although the Aoshima still lacks metal-transfer badges and a left hand dashboard, and also tires are too small. (But Aoshima's interior is the best of all, and it's way better than Tamiya's.)

If you buy both variations from Aoshima, you can make one of each detailed R35 with engine and PE, and a simple curbside.

Also, Fujimi will release R35 PE parts in October for 1260 yen.

I've finished a Tamiya GTR and was impressed. I just got my Fujimi GTR and am blown away by it. It seems more "Tamiya" than the Tamiya kit. The body is gorgeous, the design of the separate body parts is superior (less masking), the interior/chassis are more detailed (aside from the odd instrument cluster), wheels are slightly larger...I can live w/curbside no problem. In the US the Fujimi GTR is $47.98 vs. Tamiya's $66.00; I don't know how Tamiya justifies that premium. Building will be the next step...Tamiya better watch their back, Fujimi is not going to back off.

Terrific comparo, thanks a bunch. I have already ordered my tamiya kit for a quick build one of these days.

Cool, my two Aoshima kits should be here any day now. Perhaps I'll get in on the Fujimi version as well.

Nothing to add from my side - really. Just wanting to express my thanks for making this effort to compare the kits for the crowd. In my eyes this is really something worth to mention.

Robert

I've made some progress. Tamiya is ahead of the others because it's going to be a box stock. Fujimi has to wait, because I'm getting a PE set. Aoshima will involve a bit of modification, so it's gonna take a bit more time to prep the body.

Tamiya's body was painted with Tamiya gloss black spray can, and it was left for a few weeks before I applied clear coat.
Usually, I use Tamiya TS-13 clear spray, but this time, I wanted to experiment with Gaianotes EX Clear, which is synthetic lacquer-based acrylic. Here's how the roof looked like after the clear was airbrushed.
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b258/hirofkd/r35/img_1062.jpg
It looked just like any other clear. The surface texture was much finer than the spray can's, making the finishing work a little easier.

I sanded and polished the hood with my usual sanding and polishing materials, like Micro-Mesh, Tamiya, Modeler's, Hasegawa, Zymol wax etc.
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b258/hirofkd/r35/img_1065.jpg
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b258/hirofkd/r35/img_1066.jpg
What I learned was that this EX Clear dries very fast (ready to sand & polish in 24 hrs), and the paint film is very hard. It almost feels like Finisher's Urethane Clear, though EX Clear still retains flexibility.

I think I'm gonna like this clear for its faster drying time than TS-13.

Nice work!

I finished my Tamiya kit, and I'm trying to finish the others before Fujimi and Aoshima's Spec-V kits arrive in July. I used Gaianotes' EX Clear for the first time, and it turned out really well. It's a synthetic lacquer-based ac lyric, just like Mr. Color, Finishers and Tamiya TS Sprays, but the EX Clear's paint film feels almost like a 2-part urethane.

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b258/hirofkd/r35/r35t401.jpg

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b258/hirofkd/r35/r35t403.jpg

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b258/hirofkd/r35/r35t404.jpg

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b258/hirofkd/r35/r35t405.jpg

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b258/hirofkd/r35/r35t402.jpg

Aoshima and Fujimi joined Tamiya with their detailed GT-R kits, let me post some pics.

Tamiya's engine is no better than a diecast (sad...) There are a few more pieces that go with these large parts, but that doesn't improve much.

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b258/hirofkd/r35/r3511.jpg

This is Aoshima's parts tree.
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b258/hirofkd/r35/r3512.jpg

And here is a close up. Not bad.
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b258/hirofkd/r35/r3513.jpg?t=1244006235

But(!), is the R35 engine supposed to have a differential on each side??? :eek7:
If you are bothered by it, remove the one on the left side of the engine.
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b258/hirofkd/r35/r3514.jpg

By far Fujimi engine is the most detailed. The kit has two additional trees, and...
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b258/hirofkd/r35/r3515.jpg

...and the block, which is made by using the expensive multi-section sliding mold.
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b258/hirofkd/r35/r3516.jpg

For those who miss Fujimi's usual crappy execution, no worries. The block is symmetrical, meaning no offset between the right and left side, which also affects the location of the cam covers. Also, Fujimi kindly added a better looking intercooler part. But this new part sits where the radiator is supposed to be. Consequently, there's no radiator in Fujimi kit. :banghead:

:thumbsup:
So.....at last, we finally get one of these with full detail......:bananasmi
I can't believe Tamiya is letting this go........:jerking:

I may just have to pop for one of these Fujimi kits after all.....
Thanks for the update.

cheers
Greg :aus:

Aoshima's rear bumper is badly deformed. It's not that the bumper was incorrectly designed, but the outside must have shrunk faster than the inside during demolding. To correct this, carefully bend the entire back side, with a little more strength applied to just below the inner taillight circles. Bending the corners won't make it fit.


Really? I have the aoshima kit and I haven't had any problems with the fitment or deform when I was putting it together.

I thought it was Fujimi kit that had the deformity, I finished one and yes it was annoying and I didn't know how to fix it.

I have yet tot do the Aoshima kit, so hopefully, it'll be all right.

Hiroaki: after 2 or 3 years this thread is still great. Just to be sure, is the Fujimi kit you were talking about the 03767 id-2 kit? Beacuse after your review many GTR kits were released by Fujimi.
And what are the differences with Fujimi's VSpec version or club sports version, if you gave them a try?

I have Spec V kits from both Fujimi and Aoshima, as well as Fujimi's Club Sports kit. I don't have Aoshima's safety car version, but that must be just the stock GT-R with the roof-top light.

Fujimi's standard GT-R kit is already excellent, so the Spec V kit can't be bad, but there are some shortcomings, like the value for money.
I think Aoshima did a better job because they included more unique parts and engine details for less money. (Fujimi's curbside Spec V is priced 3600 yen, while Aoshima's detailed Spec V is 3200 yen)

Fujimi's Club Sports package is essentially the same as the Spec V kit, except for the stock front lip spoiler and rear seats, so you still get the front sports seats and Nismo wheels.
Fujimi's Tokachi 24h contender is just a look-alike street car with decals, so you have to fabricate the stripped down interior yourself.

Both wheels look good, but in this picture, the Fujimi wheels look more crisply molded. That's because the Aoshima wheels come painted in gloss black. Fujimi wheels are approx. 1 scale inch larger for it's one of the Inch-up disc series kits. Aoshima wheels are more accurate in size, and they are compatible with Tamiya tires.
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b258/hirofkd/r35/r3517.jpg

Fujimi's exhaust tip is deeply molded and the tip is thinner than Aoshima's, but the size is identical.
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b258/hirofkd/r35/r3518.jpg

Fujimi's lip spoiler is separate as in the standard GT-R kit, while Aoshima has the spoiler molded with the front fascia. Both look good, but Fujimi's air inlet has a raised lip, which is clearly noticeable.
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b258/hirofkd/r35/r3519.jpg

Aoshima's sports seat is definitely better than Fujimi's. Aoshima has more 3 dimensional appearance, while Fujimi seat looks too flat.
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b258/hirofkd/r35/r3520.jpg

Also, Fujimi's seat back is one-piece, while Aoshima included a separate back panel.
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b258/hirofkd/r35/r3521.jpg

Spec V is 2-seater, so there are no rear seats, but just cross-hatched trims. Fujimi's rear seat back pieces are separate in the standard GT-R kit, but the bottom piece was molded with the interior part. Spec V's interior trim go over the stock interior, so the back piece looks fine, but the bottom is not recessed deep enough.
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b258/hirofkd/r35/r3522.jpg

Meanwhile, Aoshima included a separate back trims as well as a new interior tab, so the rear section looks definitely better than Fujimi's.
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b258/hirofkd/r35/r3523.jpg

So you can build a nice Spec V out of stock with the Fujimi kit, and the only problems are thin seat, rear interior bottom trims, and high price. Aoshima kit is almost perfect, but it still has the inherited problem of the poor-looking tires.

Here is a tip. Tamiya's Aston Martin DBS kit has GT-R tires, and the side wall looks way too thick. The tire fills the entire wheel arch, so it looks unrealistic to say the least.
So, if you happen to have both Aoshima R35 and Tamiya DBS kits, try swapping the tires.

Here, the Tamiya tires effectively fill the Aoshima's wheel arches, yet they still leave a realistic gap. And if you want to lower the ride height even further, you just have to cut a portion of the wheel housing. The shock parts are already adjustable out of the box.
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b258/hirofkd/r35/r3524.jpg

And here's the DBS with the low profile Aoshima GT-R tires. This creates a reasonable gap between the tires and the wheel arches. You might have to modify some suspension parts a bit, but still, it allows you to lower the ride height easily, and the thinner side wall makes the car looks a lot sportier.
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b258/hirofkd/r35/r3525.jpg

So, Aoshima R35 + Tamiya DBS is a winning combination, which allows you to solve the shortcoming of both kits.:wink:

Good idea to swap the tires around. Still it's too bad, at least to my eyes, how poorly Aoshima's GTR captures the GTR's lines. Tamiya and Fujimi GTR's look much more authentic. I built the Aoshima and Tamiya...ended up selling the Aoshima to someone, it just didn't "hit the spot" so to speak.

I still think im going to get all three and build them all in different b-kits and paint schemes. Your comparison was very helpful. Thanks

Really useful comparison. I think I would choose the Fujimi kit.