Tcc

jacjm · 07-30-2008, 04:40 PM

i've searched all over here, and haven't seen where somebody ACTUALLY repairs a TCC solenoid. sure, i unplugged it, but that fixes the symptom, not the problem. does anyone know how to go about repair/replace this item? if so, how involved is it? someone, PLEASE HELP!

Classicrocjunkie · 07-31-2008, 10:33 PM

Its cheaper to buy a used auto trans with low miles rather than fix them, which is what most people do.

jacjm · 08-02-2008, 08:00 AM

replace the tranny? for a 40$ solenoid? i certainly hope u r not serious!

besides, who's to say the "new" old tranny would be any better?

i don't have a manual for this car, am not going to buy one since i just need to sell it, and am only looking for info on how involved and/or complex this "job" will be. thx!

Jason/RKBA · 08-02-2008, 03:44 PM

I have been told that you should replace the torque converter clutch at the same time.

J-Ri · 08-02-2008, 06:12 PM

How about telling us what year and engine? On the older ones (havn't seen anything newer than '95-ish do this yet) you just remove the side cover and a couple mounts, 5 hours easily doing it in the driveway. Why not just buy a $20 manual? It will help you out and you can sell it with the car.

jacjm · 08-03-2008, 09:04 AM

sorry, i get caught up in the details and forget the big stuff! it's a 94 cavalier 2.2l i've got the TCC solenoid unplugged (natch!) and i wouldn't mind changing fluid and filter, but i also like my stuff to run properly, so i want to find out how big a job replacing the $40 solenoid is, and should i do it while, before, or after, i am changing the fluid?

Blue Bowtie · 08-03-2008, 10:52 AM

The solenoid is internal to the trans. You should drain the fluid before the replacement, and fill it after the replacement.

Quote:

I have been told that you should replace the torque converter clutch at the same time.

By that reasoning, it would make sense to replace everything in the trans. The TCC is part of the torque converter. The transmission must be split from the engine to replace the converter. At that point, it would make a lot more sense to completely go through the trans once and properly so that it is no longer a problem.

Quote:

Its cheaper to buy a used auto trans with low miles rather than fix them, which is what most people do.

I can rebuild one with a new converter for under $300. A used/guaranteed trans will cost you all of that, and then there are still no real guarantees it will last.

There are some other questions to be answered. Is the PCM commanding the TCC on?
In that same vein, if it isn't the PCM, is the trans wire harness possibly grounded, causing the TCC to engage even though the PCM and solenoid are perfectly intact?
What is the TCC solenoid coil resistance?
Is the trans oil clean and fresh? A new solenoid will stick open just as fast as the old one (probably even faster since it is less worn) if the trans is pumping metal through the hydraulics.
Has teh transmission been maintained regularly, or is there 150,000 miles of neglect built up in the pan?

Replacing the TCC solenoid might be just as much chasing the symptoms instead of the root cause as simply unplugging it. Obviously, unplugging it allows it to relax, reset, and "unstick" so you can drive. That tells me the solenoid is not actually completely stuck. Either contaminated oil or solenoid heating/breakdown is "sticking" it or the solenoid is getting 12V when it shouldn't.

jacjm · 08-10-2008, 08:04 AM

good points, all. now i have more things to consider. thanks to everyone, and i'll be back with more.

POST REPLY TO THIS THREAD