caddyman379

Hey guys. New to yotas, but I've been working on GM's for 10+ years so I am mechanically inclined. I digress though

140k 5sf3 (4 cylinder 2200) 95 Camry. Recently stalls coming to a stop, doesn't need to have been at highway speeds will also do it just around town. Previously, the engine needed to be at operating temp and have been driving around for atleast an hour to induce it. Sometimes it wouldn't do it at all.

Now it happens within the first five minutes of starting it, pretty regularily though not all the time. It will restart with some difficulty, sounds like it misses a bit as its cranking but always starts within 10 seconds or so. Any other times and it will start with ease.

What I've done: Checked TPS, DVM had smooth movement at all positions, MAP is okay, removed and cleaned EGR valve-it sounds like it is moving freely and does function. Vehicle did pass an e-test last december.

What are the common faults on these cars? The FSM had a test for the IAC, it involved grounding a pin at the diagnostic connector under the hood and looking for engine RPM to raise to 1200-and it did. A/C works and the IAC seems to raise RPM. I haven't cleaned it though..

jdmccright

My first guess would be low fuel pressure. Check the pressure and also wouldn't hurt to replace the fuel filter if its the original. If low, the filter or the fuel pump may be to blame. Next could be fuel pressure regulator. Good luck!

__________________
Current Garage:
2003 Pontiac Vibe 1.8L AWD
2003 GMC Envoy XL (aka "fat-a$$") - K&N air filter, otherwise stock.
1995 Chevrolet C2500 2wd, 5.7L - K&N air filter, otherwise stock...my weekend hauler.
1992 Toyota Camry LE 2.2L - K&N air filter.

Vehicle History:
2004 4.7L Dakota Quad Cab 4x4
1996 GMC Jimmy 4wd
1992 Chevrolet S10 Ext. Cab 4.3L
1995 Honda ST1100...my first (and only) new vehicle.
1980 Yamaha XS400
1980 Mercury Bobcat...my first car.

Mike Gerber

Clean the idle air control valve with spray throttle body cleaner or O2 safe carb cleaner. Remove the big tube leading to the throttle body and you will see a square or diamond shaped port in the base of the throttle body. That port leads to the idle air control valve. Spray the cleaner liberally down in to that port and let it soak for about 10 minutes. While it's soaking, you might as well clean out the rest of the throttle body. Hold the throttle open so you can clean the back side of throttle valve. Pay particular attention to cleaning that throttle valve on both sides and also clean where it seats in it's resting position. Put everything back together and start the car. It will be difficult to start with all that cleaner creating an extremely rich mixture. Hold your foot to the floor to get it started. It will run rough for a few minutes as all that cleaner is burned off. Take the car for a ride for about 10 minutes. The car will smooth itself out. See if this procedure fixes the stalling.

Good luck.

Mike

Brian R.

If all else fails, replace the coil....

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4Wheel

Secondary ignition. Check your plug wires and especially the plug gap, but if you have them out might as well replace them if they are old.
Over time injectors tend to “foul” in their port, lower percentage but why not run a can of injector cleaner through the tank and see if it makes a little difference, if it does think about having the injectors cleaned.
Fuel pressure symptoms are pain and can be dangerous to diagnose if not done properly. You should have 45 – 50 lbs at all times otherwise the injectors wont “fire”.
Installing a fuel pressure gauge without the correct banjo connector or improperly can result in a fast all consuming fire by the time you grab the fire extinguisher your car is gone, and the building you’re working in too. what fire extinguisher?
The gauge needs to be installed where it can be read at driving speeds too.
I would go after the secondary ignition components first.
Good luck.