nmikmik

brake pedal on my son's Camry (198 k) felt pretty spongy last time i drove it, he replaced the brakes about 6-8 month ago, but of course did not have enough time to bleed them I'll make him bleed it "sometime soon" as he usually replies, but i wanted to replace the master cylinder anyway, i replaced calipers and wheel cylinders about 2 years ago, but MC felt fine back then, so i did not touch it, just bled the system. I see few different MC available, wanted to hear what you recommend:
DORMAN
A1-CARDONE
CARDONE SELECT
RAYBESTOS
BECK/ARNEY

Thanks!

Brian R.

I think you will have satisfactory results if you leave the master cylinder alone and flush the brake lines with fresh fluid. Sorry, I haven't had any experience with MS other than Toyota.

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jdmccright

Remember to bleed the wheels starting with the furthest (rear right) and progressing to the closest (rear left, front right, then front left) to the MC.

A hand-operated vacuum pump can be used to flush the old fluid out...be sure to use the little cup and tube attachment to prevent sucking any brake fluid through the pump itself. Suck out the old stuff from the MC, wipe the inside clean, and refill. Lay the MC cap on but keep it loose. Then hook up the vacuum tube to the bleed fittings and proceed as above...stop sucking when you see new fluid and no bubbles. You may have to empty the little cup once or twice...have a waste container ready so you don't have to unhook the vacuum line. And keep checking the MC and refill when it gets low BUT NOT EMPTY. Hope this helps!

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2003 Pontiac Vibe 1.8L AWD
2003 GMC Envoy XL (aka "fat-a$$") - K&N air filter, otherwise stock.
1995 Chevrolet C2500 2wd, 5.7L - K&N air filter, otherwise stock...my weekend hauler.
1992 Toyota Camry LE 2.2L - K&N air filter.

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2004 4.7L Dakota Quad Cab 4x4
1996 GMC Jimmy 4wd
1992 Chevrolet S10 Ext. Cab 4.3L
1995 Honda ST1100...my first (and only) new vehicle.
1980 Yamaha XS400
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nmikmik

thanks a lot! bleeding goes first without saying, I just don't want to do it for him, cause he won't learn, yada-yada-yada but I am concerned for his safety, so who knows when that's gona happen. I think I have DOT4 laying someplace around the garage, would it make any sense to convert or just use regular DOT3?
thanks,

JOET/CAMRY

I would stay with the Dot 3 brake fluid. It's pretty cheap to buy. I don't know what benifit it would be to convert to dot 4 fluid ;not sure if Dot 4 fluid would hurt the seals in the master cylinder,calipers,and (if your car has them) wheel cylinders. JMO.

Regards,
JOET1966

somick

Instructions for my hand-operated pump say to start with the closest to MC wheel. That what I do. I have never had problems...

Just my 2 cents...

Sam

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Quote:

Originally Posted by RIP Please post back when you fix it so we all will learn something

Brian R.

From the Toyota car FSMs I have, some have no preference which wheel cylinder to bleed first and no order of bleeding is prescribed. Some manuals say that you must bleed the rear brakes first. If you bleed the front first, you will be unable to get the air out of the rear brake lines.

Better start with the rear.

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