billindelicato

i desperately need some help i have been working on this car for 3 days in the rain and hail but i just cant seem to get the strut to go back into the steering knuckle after replacing the wheel bearing...i literally tried everything i can think of...is there some sort of shortcut to doing this??? someone please help i have to have this car done tonight as i have back surgery at 6am tomorrow morning!!!

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1998 Chevy Blazer LS 4x4
1996 Ford Dunderbird LX 3.8L

inafogg

hello are u talking about lining up the bolt holes???i'll stay on line

billindelicato

no i cant get it the strut tube to go into the steering knuckle and attache the lower ball joint at the same time...i can get one or the other but not both

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1998 Chevy Blazer LS 4x4
1996 Ford Dunderbird LX 3.8L

inafogg

did u disconnect the tie rod?? if not or u have it connected try removing as this will give you more movement.when u put strut into knuckle is it secured with a pinch bolt??trying too remember set up

billindelicato

tie rod is disconnected and yes a pinch bolt...it seems as if i just cant get the steering knuckle to move into place with the strut in it...

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1998 Chevy Blazer LS 4x4
1996 Ford Dunderbird LX 3.8L

inafogg

did you mess with the axle besides just clearing the hub??new hub ass. or just bearing??

billindelicato

just bearing...i just need a half inch more but cant get it anywhere if i push down on the control arm it makes it worse if i push up on the strut it pushes the kuckle further away from the ball joint

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1998 Chevy Blazer LS 4x4
1996 Ford Dunderbird LX 3.8L

inafogg

assuming bearing was pressed in correctly.......

1. Carefully align the splines of the outer CV-joint with the splines in the hub.
2. Position the steering knuckle to the lower ball joint stud.
3. Position the steering knuckle to the lower strut tube.
4. Install a new steering knuckle to lower ball joint pinch bolt. Tighten the bolt to 70 ft. lbs. (84 Nm).
5. Install a new steering knuckle to strut pinch bolt. Tighten the bolt to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm).
6. Reinstall the anti-lock brake sensor and retaining bolt. Tighten the retaining bolt to 84 inch. lbs. (10 Nm).
7. Reinstall the disc brake rotor and caliper assembly.
8. Reinstall a new wheel hub retaining nut. Tighten the retaining nut to 210 ft. lbs. (290 Nm).

Do not use an impact gun to tighten the wheel hub retaining nut or damage to the wheel bearing may result.

1. Attach the tie rod end to the steering knuckle. Install the castellated nut and tighten the nut to 18-22 ft. lbs. (25-30 Nm). Install a new cotter pin.
2. Reinstall the wheel and tire assembly. Tighten the lug nuts to 62 ft. lbs. (85 Nm).
3. Lower the vehicle.
4. Connect the negative battery cable.
5. Pump the brake pedal several times to position the disc brake pads before attempting to move the vehicle.
6. Road test the vehicle and check for proper operation.

ADJUSTMENT

The front wheel bearings consist of a cartridge design and are permanently lubricated and sealed requiring no further maintenance. The bearings are preset and cannot be adjusted. If any part of a wheel bearing assembly is defective, the unit must be replaced. It is critical that the wheel hub retainer is properly tightened to 210 ft. lbs. (290 Nm) and that a new wheel hub retainer is always used.

billindelicato

see thats where i have a problem 2 and 3 dont work for me...

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1998 Chevy Blazer LS 4x4
1996 Ford Dunderbird LX 3.8L

inafogg

thats why i asked about axle its the only other thing. if c/v joint came apart or axle isnt in all the way

billindelicato

the boots are intact as far as whats in them i cant tell you is there a way to tell if they have come sperated inside the boot?

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1998 Chevy Blazer LS 4x4
1996 Ford Dunderbird LX 3.8L

inafogg

unless you pulled on them there pretty (boots)sturdy. are we sure strut tube is all the way up/in spindle??if you can move c/v back & worth up & down freely it should be alright

inafogg

guess you got it ??Good Night

vpedwards

What you should have done is removed the brake caliper assembly, then the tie rod, then the sway bar link, then removed the steering knuckle from the lower ball joint. Now, swing the a-frame down as low as it will go. Attach something to it to force it to stay down. Now, place the steering knuckle into the strut. You will probably have to force it back into place by using two bottle jacks, one on either side and a piece of flat metal stock between the two. Use a hammer to tap on the knuckle as it presses into the strut.
Once the strut is in place you can tackle the CV Joint which has been lengthened. Move the joint back and forth using the rotor. When you feel the little balls inside the cv joint are lined up....give it a swift kick with both feet. This will shove it back into place and gain you those precious inches you had lost which didn't allow you to line up the knuckle with the strut. Now maneuver the lower ball joint back into place, its tricky but once you slowly loosen the pressure that is holding down the A-Frame you will get it.
Trust me, the next one you do will only take you about an hour.
Vince