darkey

Greetings!

a few days ago i cleaned the throttle body on my 1992 5fes wagon. i did it manually with carb cleaner, a toothbrush and rags; i also sprayed the IAC.

at the same time, i ran a can of mr goodwrench {liquid - not aerosol} top engine cleaner through the PCV line - strangely, this did NOT cause the engine to smoke, nor did it cause the engine to die as usual when i let it drop to idle - just like seafoam does

{first time i've used top end cleaner on THIS car}.

afterwards i changed the plugs {ngk}, oil/filter, air filter, pcv, rotor and cap.

part of the reason for doing all this was maintenance {it was due} but also because i was getting an erratic loss of idle; car running fine, come to a stop and it would begin missing and stall if i didn't raise and keep the rev's to at least 1500 RPM.

ALSO - HEAVY FUMES SIMILAR TO "DIESELING" BAD!

this was erratic - sometimes weeks/months without an incident - when it happened, i'd give it a quick rev or two to 5000 RPM or so, and that was it for a few more weeks or months - but it started getting more and more frequent - however -

AFTER THE SERVICE IT BECAME ALMOST CONSTANT! so i resprayed the IAC and blew it out with {canned} compressed air - and -

NOW IT WILL NOT IDLE VIRTUALLY ANYTIME!!!

very rarely will it hold an idle. PERIOD. it other wise runs ok - except -

14 MPG!

can the IAC be serviced? is it possible it's clogged from the cleaning and needs to be disassembled? i don't have the dollars to replace it...
i came up with a reading of ±24 ohms when testing from the center pin +B to the the other 2 pins....


PLEASE HELP! i CAN'T afford this MPG - and the fumes are killing me these fumes from misfiring are BAD; not to mention the car is a handful and hazard to drive here in suburbia with its constant stalling.

ALL suggestions GREATLY appreciated!

many thanks in advance,


Edited by Brian R.

(More posts like this and you will not be welcome here)

xpeed

What's with the spamming of another website?

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jdmccright

Hate to say it, but it sounds like your ISC (called the Idle Speed Control valve on the 5S-FE) is done for. The resistance should be 19.3-22.3 ohms on the 5S-FE engine. Not sure, but the carb cleaner might not have been the right stuff to use. Plus, with the IAC being on the underside of the TB plenum, all the gunk you scrubbed out of the TB probably went down into the ISC.

If you can, you can try to open it up and clean the electrics with some spray electrical contact cleaner (leaves no residue), but I've not heard of it being done nor could I tell you how. Make sure you use a new gasket too.

[from Haynes manual]

3S-FE and 5S-FE Engines
See Figures 1, 2 and 3
The idle speed must be set correctly before testing the ISC valve.

1. Bring the engine to normal operating temperature with transmission in N.
2. Using a jumper wire, connect the terminals TE1 and El of the check connector (DLC 1).

Fig. 1: Attach a jumper wire to the terminals TE1 and E1 in the DLC 1

1. The engine rpm should rise to 900-1300 rpms for 5 seconds. Check that it returns to idle speed. If rpm is as specified, the valve is functioning properly.
2. If rpm did not function as specified, stop the engine and disconnect the jumper wire.
3. Disengauge the ISC valve connector.
4. Using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance between the +B terminal (middle terminal) and the ISC1-ISC2 (3S-FE) and the ISCC-ISCO (5S-FE) outer terminals.

Fig. 2: Attach an ohmmeter and measure the resistance between the three terminals-3S-FE engine
Fig. 3: Attach an ohmmeter and measure the resistance between the three terminals-5S-FE engine

1. The resistance should be 16-17 ohms on the 3S-FE engine and 19.3-22.3 ohms on the 5S-FE engine.
2. If not as specified, replace the ISC valve.

Hope this helps!

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