beltman713

I have a 1994 Camry with a non working temp gauge. I replaced the sending unit on the water outlet and the gauge still doesn't work. I tested the gauge the way my Chiltons manual says, by unplugging the wire from the sending unit, then having someone turn the ignition switch on. I then used a jumper wire to ground the wire from the sending unit, to an engine ground. The gauge should go all the way up to hot, it didn't. According to Chiltons, this means the gauge is bad. Does this sound right? If so, how hard hard is it to replace the gauge?

Brian R.

Here is the details from the Camry manual linked in the sticky thread at the top of this forum.



I have no experience with your vehicle, but the instruction in the FSM linked as mentioned above shows the details. Page BO-110 and beyond. I think you only have to remove the cluster finish panel and the combination meter (after you disconnect the negative battery terminal) to get to the meter.

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jdmccright

The sensor you are looking for is in between two others (green electrical on the left and blue vacuum on the right) located on the right side of the 2.2L engine where the coolant hose comes from the top of the radiator to the engine (I am not as familiar with the V6). It has a simple blade-type, one wire connection with a black plastic connector. It is not weather proof like the green connector next to it, so the connection can form corrosion deposits. Pull off the connector and clean the blade connector on the sensor with a wire brush. Add a little daub of spark plug boot silicone to the connector and reconnect.

My gauge was erratic until I did this...hope this helps!

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2003 GMC Envoy XL (aka "fat-a$$") - K&N air filter, otherwise stock.
1995 Chevrolet C2500 2wd, 5.7L - K&N air filter, otherwise stock...my weekend hauler.
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beltman713

Thanks for the help everyone.

I've already done the check with the test light. The test light lit up, but the needle on the gauge did not move. I will do the resistance test next weekend.

beltman713

Ok, I did the resistance check...

A-B = 54 ohms

A-C = 230 ohms

B-C = 182 ohms

I double checked all these measurements just to make sure I didn't mix up the terminals.

beltman713

I ordered a used instrument cluster off of Ebay. When I finally received it, I tested it and it gave the same readings as the original. So when the weekend came around I took the used cluster to my parents house, it's their Camry by the way, and I installed it into their Camry. It worked perfectly.

There is obviously something wrong with the chart about, they seem to have the readings for A-C and B-C switched. I have edited the chart and uploaded it.

Here is the new one...

Brian R.

Thank you for the correction. It's not the first time we've found typos in the manuals. This is another of the "mirror image" errors. I bet the Japanese market car has the configuration they originally published and they forgot to reverse it in the left-hand drive car.

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