1996 Camry sat for 8wks with the front jacked up, empty gas tank, valve cover off, plugs out and oil drained. Put everything back together, filled fluids tried to start, wouldn't hold combustion. Lowered car, added 5gallons to tank, tried again- still won't hold (chokes and sputters out). After more tries, I finally have it to the point where, if I depress the gas as I turn the ignition, it will start and run until I let off the gas, then chokes and sputters out. While doing this, I am getting a white exhaust plume filling my garage (on an 80 degree day). Thoughts?

Having only a vague recollection of your first thread, I'd check compression with a gauge and see if it's in spec. Next - fuel pressure. Then - idle air control valve. On second thought, the first thing I'd do is pull it out of the garage before I cranked it.

Having only a vague recollection of your first thread, I'd check compression with a gauge and see if it's in spec. Next - fuel pressure. Then - idle air control valve. On second thought, the first thing I'd do is pull it out of the garage before I cranked it.

Okay, so what else would you check? I'm going to end up taking a day and just running down a checklist to try and figure out where the problem is. One more note: when I do get it started for the 5.4 seconds it stays running, it thumps real bad as it chokes off- feels like the engine is going to fall out of the car. Didn't know if that might indicate something more sinister...:crying:

A white, sweet-smelling exhaust is an indicator of coolant getting into the combustion chambers from a cracked or loose head gasket or warped head.

A bluish-white, acrid-smelling exhaust is burning oil...I think we've all smelled & seen that when driving behind an old smokkin' beater. That usually comes from worn piston rings and/or worn valve stem seals.

Not sure what work you were doing, but it sounds like that you didn't have the engine disassembled very much...timing belt replacement perhaps? 8 weeks is a while to let things sit. Fuel can evaporate and leave behind residue, left over oil can attract dust and dirt (and insects I've noticed) from the air. Hopefully, you had it covered to help minimize contamination.

My guess is a slow leak partially filled one or more of the cylinders, making it very hard for the engine to get past the compression stroke (the coolant effectively reduced the cylinder volume, thus raising the compression ratio above the norm, possibly causing predetonation). Pull the plugs and look for wetness...either clear or oily.

My other thought is that with a dry gas tank, there may be some water condensate in the tank...a bottle of Heet should help that. Otherwise, the long, dry conditions in the tank may have caused damage to the fuel pump or spring leaks due to drying out the gaskets. Test your fuel pressure at the fuel filter both with system on and also for pressure retention when it is turned off.

Hmm, can't think of any other things at the moment...these items should be a decent start, but info on what was being worked on could be a clue as well. Hope this helps!

For the record, I replaced the water pump, oil pump timing belt and other belts, oil pan gasket, transmission pan gasket and filter, valve cover gasket, ignition wires, distributor can and rotor, ignition coil and battery. I also I had the valve cover, oil pan and transmission pan off for a long time while I got everything cleaned up. I did put tape over the plug tubes to minimize the contamination. oh, and I also drained and flushed the coolant, including draining the plug on the manifold side of the 5sfe engine.

When I first fired it up, I did notice liquid on the plugs when I pulled them out again. It smelled like fuel, but was sooty. I assumed it was the fuel flushing out residue left from everything drying up. Maybe it was something else...

SO, I pulled off the fuel filter to check the fuel pressure and got... nothing. Now, the pump should come on for a few seconds when the ignition is turned to the "on" position, correct? I didn't even get a trickle from the line....

No fuel pressure is definitely not good.

(Courtesy Haynes repair manual)
Since the fuel pump is concealed within the tank, it is difficult to test directly at the pump. It is possible to test the pump from under the hood, listening for pump function and feeling the fuel delivery lines for the build-up of pressure.

Turn the ignition switch ON, but do not start the engine.
Using a jumper wire, short both terminals of the fuel pump check connector. The check connector is located near the air cleaner. Connect the terminals labeled FP and +B. Special service connector 09843-18020 or equivalent (read paper clip) can be used to perform this test.
Check that there is pressure in the hose running to the delivery pipe. You should hear fuel pressure noise and possibly hear the pump at the rear of the car.
If the fuel pump failed to function, it may indicate a faulty pump, but before removing the fuel pump, check the following items within the pump system:
All fusible links
All fuses (EFI-15A and IGN-7.5A)
AM2-30A
EFI main relay
Fuel pump
Circuit opening relay
All wiring connections and grounds.
Turn the ignition to OFF.
Remove the jumper wire.
If there is no fuel pump pressure and an inspection of the related electrical components does not reveal a malfunction, replace the fuel pump.

Well, scratch the fuel pump issue. I pulled the plug wires off and cranked the engine, letting the starter do its thing. WHOOSH! Gas sprayed everywhere from the loosened banjo fitting. Looks like the pump works, though I still have to check the pressure. So, back to the drawing board- at least I have a fresh new fuel filter... =-)

I'm not convinced it's not the fuel pump. It should build pressure when you turn the key to on, not just start spurting out when you start the engine. Try the test procedure I listed earlier, then check your fuel pressure.

Okay, call me stupid- I had the plug wires wrong. I look at the picture in my manual and went 1-2-3-4, even though I read the firing order was 1-4-3-2. I don't know what the hell I was thinking. Worst part is, I check the plug wires 5 times and said- okay, they are correct: 1-2-3-4. Hours and Hours wasted.... Grrrrr:banghead:

Lesson to other newbies- start with the SIMPLE stuff and MAKE SURE IT IS ABSOLUTELY CORRECT! :shakehead

Stupid? Nah. How about human just like the rest of us. We've all been there. The good thing? You caught it. Good point on "the lesson" and thanks for being honest with the fix.

If stupid was money, I'd be rich...