hey guys im going out to buy a socket tomorrow for the center hub/axel bolt on my 98' intrigue to replace my front hubs, but im getting conflicting information on the size. An old post on here said it was 36mm and another said it was 35mm. Im pretty sure I need a 36 mm but I just wanted to confirm before i spend like 15 bucks on a single socket (biggest in my set is 30 mm :banghead:)...

http://www.paulstravelpictures.com/GM-Wheel-Bearing-Hub-Assembly-Replacement/index.html

this website seems to confirm the gm w-body's use a 36mm axel nut

I have done both front hubs with this socket. 36mm always felt REALLY loose and I didn't want to strip it. Remember to turn the wheel to get the 3 bolts from the rear holding the hub on. Sears makes a great gripper tool if you strip those. Cadillac dealer had the rear hub bolts for $1.74 and in stock!

http://img147.imageshack.us/img147/5169/p1030031oa2.th.jpg (http://img147.imageshack.us/my.php?image=p1030031oa2.jpg)

looks like my 98' is a 36mm....just doing research on this forum and others seems to confirm that. Maybe they changed the size after 99' or something like that.

35mm is an extremly rare size (generally specialty order)

Autozone tool-loan program only gives 34/36 mm sockets for axel removal
http://www.autozone.com/in_our_stores/loan_a_tool/wheel_axle/34_36_axle_nut.htm


this website seems to say gm W body and E body vehichles use a 36mm socket...

http://www.paulstravelpictures.com/GM-Wheel-Bearing-Hub-Assembly-Replacement/index.html



Also, does anyone know the torque specs for the axel nut?

wow, F'n good find on my part..check this website out..gives you procedures and torque specs for ALL cars. NICE!

http://www2.vsm.skf.com/Files/Brochures_in_PDF/457377.pdf

118 lb/ft torque :iceslolan sound right?

ok I could use a little help....basically i got the old wheel hub off and the original does not have an ABS sensor attached like the new one...it looks like the ABS portion stayed in the spindle....the abs ring broke while taking out the old hub so i just went ahead and started prying it out of there...i HOPE i didnt need that. now theres a metal ring that has a small hole in it that the original ABS wire went through...the new hub has the abs wire + connector built right into it so obviously that metal ring would have to be removed..but as far as i can tell it it part of the spindle and to remove it would me hacking it out of there. I know i dont have the wrong hub because i looked at several in-stock hubs at a local auto parts store for a 98 intrigue and they all look the same as my new ones. Any guidance appreciated!:icon16::icon16:

wow..i was off....turns out the old wheel hub was SO BAD that the outer casing fused itself to the spindle and the abs part broke off the factory hub:grinno:....after about 10 minutes with a chisel it broke out and the new hub dropped right in. Best fix yet...i got rid of my dummy lights, got my trac control back, got my abs back, got my magnasteer back, quieter on the road and no clunking when I turn! all that from a wheel hub!:banghead:

Just got the new hubs in the other day, loaded the axel nut to about 115-120 ft/lb, but now i got this grinding/rubbing sound when i take a hard right turn. Any ideas?...he place i ordered the hubs from guarantee all bearings and claim they are all tested before shipped...i also have a squeaking noise that goes away when i lightly touch the brakes....

Usually the squeaking is the wear indicator on the pads, the noise is tough to tell without being on site. Try and have someone listen from outside the car if you can get it to do it during slow turns in a lot somewhere.

well the brakes arent worn too bad (just replaced them 6 months ago...still lots of pad) but I think because they are the cheap ones they may be glazed and squeaking a bit....the grinding isnt too loud, but its only there on a hard(er) right turn, and dissapears quickly. I did not torque any of the 3 hub bolts to spec because a torque wrench simply would not fit behind there...so i just tightened them up with a small break bar. The center axel nut was around 120 ft/lb can anyone confirm this torque spec for the intrigue?

Your two posts have been merged together since they evolve from the same issue and to cut down on confusion or redundant replies.

What brand hubs are these? Most aftermarket hub makers specify what bearing pre-load torque value to use. The figures in the GM FSM is applicable to GM/AC Delco hubs only and may vary between years.

hubs are pretty much no name 'made in korea'...but they look like their well manufactured..I ordered them online from www.1aauto.com (http://www.1aauto.com) they guarantee all bearings exclusivly and claim they test them before shipment. The 'grinding' went away after a few blocks of hard turns..but the sqeaking is still there. Like I said, it goes away when i hit the brakes but comes back when i let off :mad:...brakes are not even near the wear indicator in fact they are like new (lots of meat)...car is a 98' intrigue. There was no brake noise before doing any work on the car

Here is what I have for GM "W" body cars in general on axle nut torque and bearing pre-load which appears to track the FSMs. I've never had a hub make any noise like grinding after replacement. Something is not right. :dunno:

'01-'04 - 159 ft-lbs
'98-'00 - 118 ft-lbs
'95-'97 - 151 ft-lbs

The company didn't give you any recommended torque specs?

You did clean out all the old grease from the calipers and caliper pin bolts and used new hi-temp brake grease?

yeppers...i wiped all the old grease off the pins and loaded them with some assembly grease (good for high and low temps, and high pressure)...probly just cheap pads making the noise...ill sand them if it keeps up