As others have read, I've completely redone the front end on my 2000 3.8 (lca, quickstruts, inner/outer tie rods, stabilizer bar bushings and links). AFter I did the work I got a professional alignment. When the work was done I had my snow tires on. Anyway everything went fine. A week ago I replaced the snow tires with my summer tires. A little while later (my first drive on the van with the summer tires) I noticed a sound which was like when you turn the steering wheel and the tire scrubs on ashpalt while the van isn't moving. Sort of a rubber rub/squeek sound. This sound wasn't there with the snow tires on. The summer tires I had were in bad need of replacement so I put it down to that. I did lift the front end off the ground and turn the wheel, no noise at all. 2 days ago I got new summer tires on the van, balance etc. Noise is still there. It's definitely a rubber on rubber/rub sort of sound not a metal squeek. I'm thinking maybe when I put inner tie rod boots/covers on they're rubbing the tie rod? Maybe the rubber boot on the outer tie rod end rubbing the steering knuckle? I haven't got down and looked as I need a 2nd person to turn the wheel while I look beneath.

My big wonder is should I somehow have lubricated the inner tie rods/rack and didn't. FWIW, when I replaced the inner tie rods I just removed the old ones, installed the new ones and torqued them to spec, slipped the boot on, clamped them and made sure the tube connecting the 2 boots was "connecting".

Any thoughts appreciated.

Piper

I'd stop guessing and find the noise.

I had a similar problem on my Windstar - and must admit I rigged up a piece of clothesline to the steering wheel so I could wiggle the steering while poking around underneath. Yeah, it probably looked pretty silly while I was doing it. Avoid embarassing Kodak moments: Get a helper!

My squeak came from a lower ball joint, which I lubricated using a grease gun needle; a well-known method for knowledgeable Windstar owners. Lucky you: Now you have grease fittings courtesy of your aftermarket LCAs!

I'm not sure about the possibility of squeaks from somewhere in the rack/tie rod area, though it seems possible.

So I got the call that we all hate to get "there's a problem with the vannnn". My wife phones, she was at her office and "the power steering is gone". Anyway, upon driving over and assessing the situation I found that the right inner tie rod had become unattached to the rack. YIKES!! Luckily she was only going about 2 mph when this happened. When I replaced the inner tie rod and torqued it to the spec sheet I did not put the little aluminum pin in on either inner tie rod. Now in my defence, the OEM part did not have any locking pin and the Moog info sheet that came with the tie rod states that the tie rod itself may be fit on a number of different vehicles. I felt pretty confident that as the oem didn't have one the replacement likely would be ok without it and that the pin was for another application. For some reason I was of the impression that the pin would need to slip into a hole within the rack much like a keyway on a motor shaft. So, long story short, I had to get the van towed to the shop that did the alignment 2 weeks ago for the reinstallation of the inner tie rods and the installation of the aluminum locking pin that I didn't install. These are the types of situations that I think to myself "man I'm not a mechanic should I be doing this????"

I guess I do wonder though that if the tie rod is torqued to the proper value (74 ft-lbs according to alldata) than would the little pin have that big a job to do? Particularily as the oem tie rod didn't have a pin? I don't know.

Oh, BTW, the rubber on rubber noise now obviously was the top of the quick strut rubbing on the frame where it attaches. I was easily able to create the noise when I realigned the tire by hand.

I guess I can count my lucky stars that this is a learning experience/inconvenience and not a trip to the hospital (or worse).

Piper

Wow! That's scary!

Yes, very fortunate things worked out the way they did.

I once helped a friend with an inner tie rod on a Taurus - and recall the pin you're talking about in that application. Yes, surprising the replacement instructions didn't mention it. I don't have enough knowledge on this topic...

Thanks for the information, Piper. It may come in handy someday.

ken - sittin here on the group w bench

I'm surprised your original inner tie rods did not have the aluminum holding rivet, as all three of my Ford's had them. If you have no holes in the original at the threads, they must have dropped that from their design. It works like a locking set screw. I've always had to remove it to remove the tie rod, though the aluminum rivet doesn't hold the rod from turning as firmly as the steel roll/spring pin with the replacement rods I've installed. They are also easier to completely remove if you didn't smash it too much when installed. I think using the pin works better to hold it and also be released than say thread lock. I'd rather have a set screw, but that's more expensive and probably would mess up the threads too much. That's my :2cents: :D