D Boz

A friends '98 Safari needs the t-case rebuilt and I figured it would be much easier to swap in a used one. Are all the Astro/Safari AWD cases the same from year to year? What years? Anything else to watch for when trying to find one? Thanks in advance
Derek

Steve47

Can you tell me why the transfer case needs a rebuild? What are the symptoms to make him believe this?

Blue Bowtie

Transfer case chains, sprockets, oil pumps, and clutches are available almost anywhere you can find transmission parts.

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D Boz

It was taken into a dealer with what seemed like a driveline vibe. The dealer said the viscous coupler was seized and quoted 5k to repair (obviously that is outrageous and nobody I know will ever set foot in there again). I did get to see it disassembled and bearings, gears etc. appear to be in decent shape. I dont even know that these cases have a real viscous coupler, but what ever the device is that allows the front/rear bias did not turn and the tech said it was supposed to.

D Boz

I dont doubt the parts can be found or my ability to rebuild it, I just think it would be easier and cheaper to swap in a complete, used case. The Chevy dealer quoted $1100 for one part alone the claim its going to require

Blue Bowtie

A 1998 Astro should have a Borg-Warner 1372 transfer case. Applications should be:

1990-1998 Astro & Safari
1991-1992 Syclone / 1992-1993 Typhoon
1991-1997 Bravada

Some places have warranted rebuilds available, such as this one

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D Boz

Thats the info I was looking for. Thanks.
Derek

D Boz

From that link:
1990-95 DTS100 BW1372 or BW4472 4.13 Front output, Mounting Flange 27 spline rear output, 4.5" Front output circular yoke, AWD

1996-1998 DTS101 BW1372 or BW4472 27 spline rear output, 4.90 front output mounting flange

Are the actual output shafts different lengths? If I were to find a '90-'95 version instead, I would assume I can just change the front output yoke to the flange that is currently on it. The rear ouput on this '98 is a slip-yoke, and it appears that the earlier versions are flanged. Can anybody confirm this? If so, I would guess it takes complete disassembly to switch the rear ouputs, which defeats the purpose of trying to make this easy.

Lots of questions, I know. Basically, what would it take to use the '90-'95 version in a '98

Thanks,
Derek