engine wont start need advice.

zero979 · 01-24-2008, 06:50 PM

i have got a 93 camry that only cranks when i turn the key but will not start.

I looked the engine over but cannot find anything that looks out of place or is not connected. I check the fuel pump and it works.

i've tried everything I could think of does anybody have any ideas that I could try?

Scotty89 · 01-24-2008, 08:15 PM

Are you getting gas at the injectors? Did you try anything with the ignition system?

jdmccright · 01-24-2008, 11:37 PM

If the exhaust smells like gas then you're getting fuel. ..turn your attention to the electrical part. Find or purchase a spark test tool and connect it. If you're not getting a spark, then I'd check your distributor or ignition coil.

I got stranded once in the parking lot with my '92...was pulling away from my parking spot and the ignition coil just up and died. As you describe, it would crank fine, just wouldn't start. Thus, I needed a tow home (luckily only a mile away).

Here's some good diagnostic info...

http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us...es.htm#hd1-1-1

zero979 · 01-25-2008, 08:58 AM

thanks for the info i'll test the spark and post the results.

Brian R. · 01-25-2008, 11:01 AM

I would vote for the ignition coil, adequate resistance as measured or not.

zero979 · 01-26-2008, 05:00 PM

could it be that the timing belt is broke or jumped time.

or maybe the fuel filter is clogged?

RIP · 01-26-2008, 05:09 PM

If the timing belt has broken, when you crank the engine it will make a higher pitched noise than usual because all compression has ceased. The crankshaft and pistons will spin faster creating the noise. Another check is to remove the distibutor cap and watch for the rotor to spin while cranking. If it doesn't move the belt has broken. If you can easily turn the rotor by hand, the distributor shaft has broken. You can determine if the timing belt has slipped by performing a timing check using a timing light.

Timing belts should be changed every 60-80K miles as scheduled maintenance.

zero979 · 01-27-2008, 04:31 PM

I took the distributor cap off and had someone crank it and watched for the rotor to turn and the rotor turned but there was oil inside the cap and on the ignition coil and everything around it do you think that could have caused something to break or foul out?

RIP · 01-27-2008, 06:46 PM

Now you know the timing belt is in one piece but, keep in mind it may have slipped. Since you can't get it started the only way to verify correct timing is to remove the belt cover and see if the timing marks align. Also keep in mind for a slipped timing belt to cause a no start, it would have to slip quite a bit. Make this the last thing you look at.

The oil in the cap sure could be the problem. I would clean it up as best you can especially the rotor tips and plug wire contacts. Recommend you do the resistance checks on the pickup coil described in the Autozone link jdmccright sent you. To cure the oil in the cap you'll have to replace the distributor oil seal.

gator2764 · 01-28-2008, 06:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zero979

I took the distributor cap off and had someone crank it and watched for the rotor to turn and the rotor turned but there was oil inside the cap and on the ignition coil and everything around it do you think that could have caused something to break or foul out?

You have oil inside of the cap? Time to replace the Dist. These are known to leak oil internally after a while and there is no fix for this. Not a hard job since the Dist only goes in one way on these motors. Just make sure to use plenty of vasoline around the O-ring to make it go in easier. The reman. Dist. are a little tricky to put in since the shaft does not have the nice machined finish as the original ones have. I have done 2 of these myself. It just takes a little time. Good luck and post back.

furias15 · 01-28-2008, 12:07 PM

The internal shaft seal on the dist can be replaced. I'll have to find the details from a thread I wrote somewhere. Just clean out the dist with brake parts cleaner and let it dry out. Put the cap back on and see if that fixes your problem. If it has no effect I would pull a plug. Reattach the plug lead and crank the engine to see if you have spark. If you have spark you might try pulling the intake hose off the throttle body, open the valve and squirt a little bit of starting fluid in there, put the hose back on and try cranking it. If it fires it might indicate a no fuel situation. SteveB

furias15 · 01-28-2008, 12:38 PM

About the dist shaft seal. Found a good source for the internal distributor shaft seal. http://www.applied.com/ pn 10X20X7TC for around $6.00 per seal. It is a 10mm shaft dia/20mm outside dia/7mm deep/tc douple lip seal. The stock seal is 5mm deep but the 7mm unit goes in and works just fine. Mark the postion of the distributor base on the cyl head to ease re-installation. Remove 2 electrical connectors. Remove 2 12mm bolts that secure the dist to the head. Pull the dist out of the head noting the positon of the rotor. This is not critical, as you can't put it in 180 out, but it makes life easier. There is an external seal on the dist body that you may as well replace since you have the dist out. Remove the rotor and unsnap the dust cover that sits on top of the coil and shaft. Disasssembly of the distributor inards is pretty straight forward. Just be sure to observe the gaps between the pickups and the dist shaft triggers. I set mine at about .005" and it has worked on both of the distributors I have done this to.
Be sure to mark the relationship between the drive dog and the shaft before you knock the pin out. To remove the pin in the drive dog use a punch and hammer. I carefully blocked the distributor body up so just the drive dog set on the slightly open jaws of a vice. Knock the piFound a good part source for oil leaks from the distributor shaft seal which results in oil inside the distributor. n out and pull the dist shaft straight out of the dist body. Now you should see the seal you need to replace. Insert the new seal and put everything back together. You will notice the new seal is thicker than the old seal but it works just fine.
SteveB

opcorn:

Techventure · 01-28-2008, 03:26 PM

I have a 92' camry V6 and I'm having the same problem. I tested and I have 12 volts to my primary coil. Testing the resistance of the primary I get a reading of 5-7 ohms. the specs. call for 0.21-0.32. I went to the wreckers and tested 2 coils they had available, both tested the same as my primary coil, 5 ohms. the test of primary to secondary is fine being about 10 k ohms.

I then took the lead off the distributor cap leaving it on the secondary and held it about a 1/4 inch from a bolt and cranked the engine. No spark.

Is it a coincidence that 3 coils could all read the same, 5-7 ohms and be defective?

I take it the 0.21-0.32 is a very critical resistance !

I have a new coil coming in tomorrow and I sure hope it is within spec.

Anybody else run into a similar situation ? Input is welcomed.

Thanks.

jdmccright · 01-28-2008, 04:04 PM

If that was the reason those cars were junked, then yes. You were wise in going for a new coil...well worth the few extra dollars for peace of mind versus getting a used one with lots of miles on it. Post back with the resistances of the new one if you can.

I remember my nuked one had similar results as yours. The secondary on the dead one was in spec, but barely. The new one was all right...this was a few yrs ago though...the mind forgets such details.

JOET/CAMRY · 01-28-2008, 10:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gator2764

You have oil inside of the cap? Time to replace the Dist. These are known to leak oil internally after a while and there is no fix for this. Not a hard job since the Dist only goes in one way on these motors. Just make sure to use plenty of vasoline around the O-ring to make it go in easier. The reman. Dist. are a little tricky to put in since the shaft does not have the nice machined finish as the original ones have. I have done 2 of these myself. It just takes a little time. Good luck and post back.

maybe, maybe not. check out this link.

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...39&postcount=2

Regards,
JOET/CAMRY

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