When I turn the wheel a lot (not at max), the front right wheel make a strange noise. It's like a friction noise. But it's not the tire. What is it?

It happens usually when I park my car, because I turn the wheel a lot. It doesn't happen at the highway. It happen both at idle and at low speed.

I have uploaded the video, so you can heard the noise:
Video1 (http://decclic.qc.ca/usagers/028595/Documents/noise when turning wheel 1.avi)
Video2 (http://decclic.qc.ca/usagers/028595/Documents/noise when turning wheel 2.avi)
Video3 (http://decclic.qc.ca/usagers/028595/Documents/noise when turning wheel 3.avi)
Video4 (http://decclic.qc.ca/usagers/028595/Documents/noise when turning wheel 4.avi)

It's 4 different videos of the same problem.

The sound come more on the top of the wheel. So I think it's the suspension when it turns, it has friction.

It's because I need to lubrificate the tie-rod end, the balljoint, the stut nut?

If not, how I can make a diagnosis of this problem?

I mention in my "General Windstar Information" sticky post that one can get a grease needle at most auto part stores, in the section where they sell grease and grease guns.
With the grease needle, you can inject grease into the boot over the tie rod ends and lower ball joints.
DO NOT inject grease into the CV joint boot.
If the suspension points are worn, adding grease will not solve the problem, they must be replaced.
If you catch the problem early....before they have worn, you can extend the life by adding grease, and the grease needle is the only way to get more grease in there.

Once you get some grease in there, it would be good to follow up with a good front end inspection to make sure that you do not have worn parts that need replacement.
Such an inspection should be done every year to 2 years MAX on any vehicle.
It is a part of a quality front end alignment.

It's hard to tell from the video where the sound originates. However, I had a similar sound, although in my case it was more severe sounding (i.e. stronger, and occuring fewer times as I turned the wheel). One symptom that it had was that it only occured in cold weather. I noticed the snow in your video, so I'll ask if it also happens a warm temperatures, above 50 F?

In my case,
I found out that this is caused by the upper spring seat rubbing on the underside of the shock/strut tower. TSB 02-13-02 recommends installing a spacer above the upper strut mount, below the tower sheet metal. The TSB even mentions the temperature sensitivity that I noticed. The part number of the spacer is 18A027.

Check this thread for more information: http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=522930

Along the lines of what Wiswind was stating, it is very common for the outer tie rod end and the lower ball joint to have a loud creaking noise that is also present when driving over things slowly and coming to a stop. However, the noisy strut tower bearing plate sounds like it might be more consistent with what you described. Try raising the front on ramps so that the weight is still on the tires, then have the tires turned while underneath listening for source of noise and also from underhood at top of tower. Let us know what you find.

One symptom that it had was that it only occured in cold weather. I noticed the snow in your video, so I'll ask if it also happens a warm temperatures, above 50 F?


No, it doesn't happen when temperature is above 50°F.
Mean that the theory about lack of lubrication is good.

I will apply grease next weekend. I'll inform you about the result.

Thanks for all the advices.

Dear tomj76
I have the same problem but i request can u give the pdf form or complete detail of the TSB 02-13-02
I will be thank full to u

I can almost assure you, its the upper rubber spring seat on your shocks. My brothers 2003 did it and we diagnosed it and fixed it this weekend. I got a flashlight and shined it up in the wheel well while he rotates the steering wheel left and right (stop to stop). If you are watching the rubber mount, you'll see it slip at exactly the same time that makes the noise. It took me a few seconds to locate it, but that was definitely the problem.

Perhaps the most correct way to fix it would be remove the strut assy. lubricate the mount and reinstall. It was wicked cold last weekend and so I opted for the quick method of silicone spray and a strategically aimed straw. Silenced it immediately. (Although you have the move the wheel a few more times to get the silicone to spread around)

One note. You might raise the vehicle because otherwise all the stationary rotating of the wheel left and right leaves pretty dark spots in your driveway.

Good luck.


Mark

P.S. His also only did it when it gets cold. Mine's never done it.

I can almost assure you, its the upper rubber spring seat on your shocks. My brothers 2003 did it and we diagnosed it and fixed it this weekend. I got a flashlight and shined it up in the wheel well while he rotates the steering wheel left and right (stop to stop). If you are watching the rubber mount, you'll see it slip at exactly the same time that makes the noise. It took me a few seconds to locate it, but that was definitely the problem.

Perhaps the most correct way to fix it would be remove the strut assy. lubricate the mount and reinstall. It was wicked cold last weekend and so I opted for the quick method of silicone spray and a strategically aimed straw. Silenced it immediately. (Although you have the move the wheel a few more times to get the silicone to spread around)

One note. You might raise the vehicle because otherwise all the stationary rotating of the wheel left and right leaves pretty dark spots in your driveway.

Good luck.


Mark

P.S. His also only did it when it gets cold. Mine's never done it.


My 98 also does this, only again since it is cold. Last spring I replaced the passenger side lower control arm with the ball joint thinking that was the problem and had been cured until the cold weather set in this winter and the noise returned. When it gets warmer again (below 0 right now) I will try your method Mark and if that doesn't work I will need to try the tsb fix.

azharj (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/member.php?u=671146), I sent you a PM.

Mark did you lube it from the bottom, reason I ask is there is a hole at the top under the cowl that you can get a spray hose in there but not sure if it will hit the needed spot. Quess I need to lay in the snow to get at it from the boottom.

Mark did you lube it from the bottom, reason I ask is there is a hole at the top under the cowl that you can get a spray hose in there but not sure if it will hit the needed spot. Quess I need to lay in the snow to get at it from the boottom.

The holes at the top won't take you there, I don't believe. I sprayed it from underneath. Frankly, that was because it was freaking WICKED cold. The best way to do this would be to remove the upper strut mount bolts that are located under the hood. You could loosen the bolts and then raise the vehicle. This would seperate the upper strut from the van and you could easily get the required lubrication up there. I'll redo it when it gets warmer.

Mark

The holes at the top won't take you there, I don't believe. I sprayed it from underneath. Frankly, that was because it was freaking WICKED cold. The best way to do this would be to remove the upper strut mount bolts that are located under the hood. You could loosen the bolts and then raise the vehicle. This would seperate the upper strut from the van and you could easily get the required lubrication up there. I'll redo it when it gets warmer.

Mark

thanks Mark.

I was thinking about that myself. Do yo think it would be better to use regular grease or the sprayable lithium grease? I need to find a dry and warmer place to this myself. Getting to old to be laying down on snow to do work.

Thanks for all members. I have found the solutions
Defects:- see pictures diagrammatic and actual I do not know how to send in URL any body interested I can mail him.
There are two parts the strut Bearing seat (Ford call it coil spring seat) Part No. 3B455. It is like a plate with a centeral hole. In the plate there is a circular Plastic Ball bearing of the same size as that of the central hole. Its outer rim is covered by thick rubber (Green in picture). This rubbered rim rests on the coil spring.
The other part is Front shock bracket Part No. XF2Z 18183 AA. This part has three bolts standing up to be fitted with the Body of the windstar. In the center is a rubber part (Green in picture) in which fitts the strut. The central parton is also of rubber and its lower part fits in the circular bearing in the coils spring seat.
Defects (1) Whe fitted to gether the distance between the two parts is only a few mm. (poor design) compared to other cars where the distance is several cm. (2) The rubber sags and is compressed with load of car, (3) shrinks with low tempertur thus further reduced distance between the two parts (Poor qulity of the rubber?). The decreased distance between the two parts results in the so reduced distance between the coil spring seat and the body as to rub and produce sound. (5) The plastic ball bearing may break (poor design and material). It is to mention that the two parts do not rub as apparently thought.
Solution:- Unless broaken no need to change the two parts. In my case the Plastic bearing was broken therefore, changed the seat, as bearing is not available separately, I asked the turner to prepare a ring of the same dia meter as that of the plastic bearing and about 3 mm thick, and placed the ring on the Plastic bearing to increase the space between the tow parts (spacer). An alternate solution can be, to place the spacer between the body and the front mounting bracket to increase the space between the body and the coil spring seat. But rhe hight of the bolts on the shock bracket may not be sufficient to allow this. But it is simple to replace the smaller bolts with the new longer ones.
The company did not understand the problem and asked to change all suspension including ball joints tie rod ends rck ends struts sway bars bushings etc in about 4000 dollars while all were in good position and I have no problem in alignment, bubbling tyre wearing etc except the sound while turning In cold early motning or late night .
The other problem of sharp blowing sound of Power steering pump resolved as I drained all the oil by separating the out and in pipes and idling the engine for a second, cleaned the reservoir and strainer and replaced the oil with Mrcon V as recommende by Ford TSB. Thanks God now my car is as sound free as a new.
Fear:- Adding the spacer will increase the hight of strut by a few milimetres may disturb the camber. And in Ford Windstar it is not adjustable But I have formulated the solution too, if it occured. Simply grind (turning) the lower end to minus the height equivalent to that added by the ring (spacer) between the mout bracket and the coilseat bearing.

Today I got the vehicle insdie my friends shop. Tool off the cowl so I could remove the nuts holding the strut on. (Passenger side) Removed the nuts and also loosened the strut rod nut but did not remove. Jacked the passenger side up untile wheel was air born then squirted the top side (thru the holes on the strut tower) and also sprayed the bottom by the strut rod and wherever I could spray with straw in a lithium can of grease. Put everything back together drove it outside onto some packed snow so the wheels could turn without to much friction on the tire Rotated tires from stop to stop many times attempting to get the grease spread the best I could. Temp is in mid 20's today so we'll see what happens when it gets colder again.

If stilll makes noise I will need to get the spacers in the TSB and completely remove struts and add spacer. I just called a Ford dealer in Madison, WI and the price was (hope your sitting down) $49 and change for 1 spacer.

Anybody have a good pic of these spacers?? Wonder if a person could make one.

Has been a few days since I lubed the strut. what I did do has helped quite a bit. There is a periodic noise but not near like it was.

When I had the plate off the top of strut tower I thought about drilling a couple of small holes in the upper plate in order to lube the bearing and rubber piece. Maybe if it gets worse again I may just try that.

Dear tmpfixit Drilling the body will weaken the body plate and greasing is only temporary solution. If u read my mail care fully. I got the spacer made my self. Simply a metal ring 3- 5 mm thick width equal to the plastic mount may be 1.5 cm and dia metre equal to the Plastic bearing. The turner cost me only 13 doller. That shown in the TSB is complicated like the shape of the sock bracket may not be possible to be made.

Here is my 2 cents on this,
While doing the trans this week in my van I took the struts out. Mine also started making the winter noise.
Upon looking into it I found 2 issues.
First the upper mount on the strut with the 3 bolts is thin and flexs at the bolts causing the upper plate to contact the spring Insulator.
Second is that the Insulator will then get very close to the strut mount tower and rub rubber on metal.
Ford had this problem on Taurus cars as well and Made a Shim to space it down And to reinforce the upper mount plate.
They have been long discontiued So I was looking into making some up at a friends Metal shop.

Is there enough demand for these if I make a few sets? I paid 40.00 for the last set of Ford shims to Copy off of so I was thinking Of making some extras for some people I know need them.

Does anyone have trouble with new quick struts or is it only oem struts. Reason I ask is I should replace the struts and wondering if a person should just install spacers at the same time. Evidentally if the spacers are not available anymore than the new quick struts have not produced this problem. Correct or incorrect.

Thoughts

I just installed the Ford strut spacer on my left strut and now I am Noise free. Took about 20 minutes.

Has been a few days since I lubed the strut. what I did do has helped quite a bit. There is a periodic noise but not near like it was.

When I had the plate off the top of strut tower I thought about drilling a couple of small holes in the upper plate in order to lube the bearing and rubber piece. Maybe if it gets worse again I may just try that.

Replace the upper strut bearings...it will last another 6 years guranteed.
I just did it last week.
It is very easy to do it. You will need a spring puller.