frafreg

I have a 1990 Ford Escort and I live in New Jersey. I went to inspection this morning and I failed for a bad high beam and visible smoke when they hit the accelerator pedal. Normally, I don't see any smoke at all from the tailpipe. I think they are just being picky but nevertheless, I must correct the problem The car runs great and it has it about 74,000 miles on it. I do my oil change and filter every 3 to 4 thousand miles and I am running 5W30 oil. I was told that I could put in 20W50 oil which would help cut down any smoke. I don't like the idea of using anything but what Ford recommended but I need this car and I don't have a lot of money to fix it. I have already changed the air filter and the breather filter that sits inside the air cleaner for the PCV valve. I have also replaced the headlight with the bad high beam. What can I do to stop the smoke ? Any help would be appreciated. Thank you in advance.

denisond3

The only inexpensive thing would be to try the thicker oil - at least until it had gone through the emissions inspection. The thicker oil isnt going to hurt the engine if you only use it for a few days. I doubt it would make the difference though. Can you try a different inspection location? Some of them will consider an occasional puff to be okay, and some will fail it if ANYthing is visible. (I once had to argue with an inspector who saw the normal water vapor coming from a cold exhaust system in sub-freezing weather and said it was 'smoke'.)
If that doesnt work, I dont think there is much you can do that doesnt cost plenty. A new catylitic converter might burn off some of the blue before it got to the tailpipe, or it might not. New plugs and plug wires will help it burn a little cleaner. A new pcv valve might help a little. And going in for the test after having taken it onto a highway and travelled 60 mph for 30 minutes might help slightly.
Our 92 Escort was leaving a pretty blue puff each time we started it, when it had 190,000 miles on it. I took the motor out to rebuild it. The only thing it needed was new piston rings. The oil control rings were partially stuck in their grooves, hence the oil burning. I didnt replace the pistons, or even hone the cylinder walls; just bought new piston rings.

12Ounce

I'm surprised that your state allows such a judgement call for emissions testing. Georgia only uses measurable data.

The point about stuck oil control rings is probably right ... and there's no "chemical bullet" that will help free them, don't waste your time ... only engine disassembly, once they are stuck, will do any good. But an engine can run pretty clean even if they are stuck. I don't think thicker oil will help. Fresh oil might. And running the engine 'til its super warm will help ... make sure the thermostat is in good shape ... but a new set of friendlier eyes will help most.

frafreg

Okay, here is an update on my Escort. I ran diagnostics on it and with the engine off it passed with flying colors. With the engine running it failed consistantly with DTC 16. According to manual that came with the Ford OBD I code reader this means one of three things:
1. RPM too low to perform HEGO (HO2S) test
2. Idle RPM high with ISC retracted
3. RPM above self test limit with ISC off
I went to a mechanic and hit the accelerator a couple of times to get his opinion and he agreed that there was no unusual amount of smoke coming out of the tailpipe. Certainly no blue smoke indicating that there was any oil burning. I agree but the DTC 16 might mean the the O2 is out of spec. Any suggestions or any help would be appreciated. Thank you in advance.

denisond3

I dont know what the HEGO thing means, or what the DTC-16 code involves, but if a new O2 sensor would help it pass - its worth it. Unless the O2 sensor was changed in the last 6 months. Along with new spark plugs and plug wires, a fresh oil change will help it run cleaner. If you can, try leaving it running when you are at the inspection station - so the cat. converter will remain at operating temperature. You could use the 20W50 oil for the inspection, then put thinner oil back in afterward; or as it uses up the 20w50 oil.
In Va you can take your car into any service station that has the emissions testing equipment and one of the mechanics has taken the schooling to run the test. There are hundreds of the stations, so you can look for one that has reasonable inspectors. In Md. the inspecton places are all state owned and run - and there arent very many of them. They usually involve waiting in a line too.

frafreg

Another update folks. I need to run the KOER or Key On Engine Running test again today because I failed to press the accelerator pedal to the floor when code 10 comes up on the diagnostic tool. Code 10 is not a fault code. The vehicle's computer uses code 10 to signal the code reader operator to perform a (WOT) or Wide Open Throttle test. This is called the Dynamic Response Test. The computer uses this brief (WOT) or wide open throttle test to verify the operation the throttle positioning, Mass Airflow, Manifold Absolute Pressure and Knock Sensors. If you fail to press the accelerator to the floor as instructed, a Dynamic Test Failure Code may be generated. That is probably why I received the DTC 16 error code. Its hard to read and comprehend everything when its 20 degrees and damp as hell with the wind blowing in your face. My fault, my mistake. I will run the test again today and provide an update. Thanks in advance.

Arnoldtheskier

The hardest oils to burn are non-multi-grade and diesel truck oils. And STP.
Kendall 30 wt racing oil is very heavy stuff. Doubt whether it would go by a sniffer.
Plain 30 wt diesel truck oil (might have to go to a h/d truck place or a truck stop).
Even a 15/40(common) diesel oil is 10 times the oil that a plain 30 automotive is. engines that are burning 30 will burn an awful lot less of 15/40 diesel oil.
Get the thing warm..as mentioned good plugs,wires..put in a hotter spark plug.,good t.stat,pcv. Put in the 30 wt diesel and 2 cans of STP. Head off to the smoke test. Change that oil before it gets cold. Smoke test only . I very much doubt whether any h/d or diesel oil would go by a sniffer when it was in a car engine.
You might be able to cure the burning with some 5w oil and some EOS from GM and run it hot..and keep it there for a while to clean it up.
Needless to say you do not start it cold with even 15 w diesel oil. Older gas larger V8's and some 6's you could run it year round..I ran it..15/40 diesel oil for years and years year round in taxi,fleet,police,trucks. I doubt that wih newer tighter clearanced engines they would tolerate maybe not even one very cold startup with 15 diesel oil.

12Ounce

You may want to experiment with adding alcohol to the fuel. I have read that gasoline can be "doped" with up to 20% by volume alcohol for improved exhaust. Denatured alcohol is available at Home Depot by the gallon can = $10 or so. Will it improved the opacity of your exhaust? Who knows? Experiment.

I have added it to my old '83 Escort before emission testing. Kinda insurance. Of course, I have no way of knowing if it reallly did any good. But I've passed every year without having to pay for extra testing.

frafreg

Okay, I ran the diagnostics again and code 10 doesn't appear when doing the KOER or Key On Engine Running test. It only appears when doing the KOEO or Key On Engine Off test as a spearator between the different kinds of codes being displayed. So, I am back to square one. The smoke coming out is NOT blue which would indicate oil burning. It is grey smoke. The DTC 16 is saying there is something wrong in the ISC or Idle Speed Control circuit. Unfortunately, there are many components and reasons why the idle could be incorrect due to the number of sensor inputs and relays connected to the computer. For this reason, it says it can't perform the HEO2 (HO2S) test. The Chilton manual says that if the battery has been disconnected, the idle speed control and mixture adjustment may need to be performed. I recall that I replaced the battery in September. I wonder if this has something to do with the ISC being out of adjustment. The car runs great and I don't notice any extreme variation in idle whether it is in gear or in park. Just to be safe, I put a can of Seafoam in the gas tank today. It probably won't help but it sure can't hurt. Any help with the ISC circuit would be much appreciated. Thank you in advance.

frafreg

I went back to inspection today after putting in a can of Seafoam in a full tank of gas. I ran the diags again and they passed with no error codes this time. I don't know if the Seafoam had anything to do with it but I failed again anyway. I watched what they did today. They asked me to get out of the car and go stand in a booth which is far enough from where they work so you can't see what they are doing. The car sat running for a good 5 to 10 minutes. Then, I saw a guy get in the car, put it in drive and nail it. Much to my surprise, I saw smoke. Its hard to say what color the smoke was since I was so far away and there wasn't enough light. I thought he had the emergency brake on when I saw the smoke. I never saw the car blow any amount of smoke like that. At the end of the line I questioned him about the testing and he said that they hold the pedal down for 10 seconds at 2500 rpm or higher. I walked over to the car and pushed the pedal to the floor twice and didn't see any smoke as usual. Nevertheless, I failed and I'm confused. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

12Ounce

Try to duplicate exactly the test. Let it idle for several minutes, then suddenly floor it to 2500 rpm. It probably was not in drive, but neutral. You should be able to find the test procedure on your state website ... or you may have to make a phone call downtown. Only after you are able to duplicate the test will you make any progress. You may need a helper so you can watch the exhaust pipe.

Based on what little I know, it sounds like your PCV system is loading up the intake area with oil during high vacuum idle ... which then gets dumped into the combustion chambers when the throttle is opened. But this is just a guess.

frafreg

Here is my final update for those of you who have been so kind as to offer assistance. The first thing I learned is that passing OBD I diagnostics doesn't mean you will pass inspection especially in New Jersey. Under normal driving conditions for me anyway, I never see any smoke come out of the tailpipe. The test that they are performing now on older cars is in my opinion unfair because it is conducted unlike normal driving conditions. When I stop for a light or get stuck in traffic, I don't take my car out of gear, then nail it as soon as the light turns green or the traffic starts moving again. That is why I still have the car after so many years. I don't abuse it and I do frequent oil changes. This test is conducted after the car is sitting for 5 to 10 minutes in Park or out of gear if you have a manual transmission, and then the accelerator is pressed to 2500 rpm or more out of gear. If I drove my car like that everyday, I'd be walking. For those of you who have yet to experience what I have at inspection I wish you luck because you will need it to pass inspection if you are driving a car older than a 96. For those of us who can't afford to buy a another car, we 're screwed. Sorry for the foul language but I can't think of any other words to describe my experience. Once again to all of you who offered assistance, I thank you and I wish you well. Now, off I go to try and find some valve stem seals for 1990 Ford Escort cause its gonna be a long winter here in Jersey.

jamesmetairie

good luck Bub. down here in new orleans automotive exhaust only makes the air smell better.

Arnoldtheskier

Still trying it with the thin 5w oil?

'attaboy!

frafreg

Yeah, I would like to stick with the 5W30 if possible but if I can't even after the new valve stem seals are replaced, I will switch to either 10W40 in the winter months and 20W50 in the summer months. We see all four seasons here in New Jersey so I do my best to accomodate the change in climate. Thanks!