97outbackOwner

I bought my outback new in 97. A few months ago it started leaking oil. It has almost 75,000 miles on the odometer. The leak drips on the exhaust pipes causing oil fumes to get sucked into the interior when waiting at a red light. This is unacceptable. Is this a rare occurance? Or is it a common problem?

I have added X1R since about the 40,000 mile mark. Could X1R be related to this problem?

davidfnickel

I had the same thing happen to my 96 at 80,000 miles and it was the pan gasket. The funny thing with these cars is that they use rtv from the factory as the only pan gasket. I called the dealer to confirm this after my mechanic told me and it is true. The good news is unlike other cars, the pan gasket is relatively inexpensive to have repaired (155$) Good luck.

kbkaiser

My 96 Outback leaks oil like no car I've ever owned. From the front seals, the oil pump (resealed three times), the valve covers, etc. As you say, it gets on the exhaust and burns and stinks. I doubt it's your additive, it's the design.

Gr1mreaper

Just so you all know, if you own a 2.5 ltr Subaru expect the oil leak. Its just typical that the most common leak is on the rocker gasket that sits over the exhaust, and yes it really does stink. Its not a big repair but annoying non the less.

SUBARU_TECH

not to piss off the person that had the oil pan resealed,but it usally isnt the oil pan.its the rear oil seperator plate that is made with plastic that warps and leaks onto the oil pan.if it still leaks this is the cause.if not great.also the oil pump must be resealed with a new oring for thew passage way and front crank seal.make sure the new front crank seal is brown in color and not the older black colored ones,.

ericj14

I'm having the same problem in my 98 Outback, 90K miles. I've cleaned up all the leaked oil from the underside of the engine, and it does seem to be coming from someplace behind the oilpan, and dripping on the exhaust pipe. Is this a DIY job, or does it need to be done at a shop? Thanks for any reply.

4Wheel

If you have the burned oil syndrome take a very close look at front of the driver side head. There is a bolt just behind the oil dip stick tube that has a metal compression "O" ring behind it. This is a plug and seal for the main oil galley for the head, if this is leaking it flows directly to the exhaust manifold. and then to SMOKE. This can be accessed easily, it's in plain sight.

It's not just RTV, as it is designed for the higher heat and petroleum exposures.
Yes it is still an OTC product but only at auto parts counters NOT Home Deepot.
Reaper, BTW I have a 2.5 MT with 110k miles and NO leaks so guess I have an atypical 2.5 eh?

There is an "oil separator" behind the flywheel/flex plate, this has a non metal cover sealed with the same sealant. These covers are notorious for "seeping" and leaking. Of course this repair is easy but it requires a major removal of the motor or transmission to get to it.
Always replace the rear main seal and clutch plate while your in there too. Take a straight edge and measure for taper across both surfaces of the pressure plate and flywheel. If there is noticeable wear the new clutch will "chatter" and vibrate every time it is engaged, have the flywheel ground and or replace the pressure plate.