jamesmetairie

1999 lx 113,000 miles. previously great a/c instantly stopped blowing cold . when switch is in any a/c position i do see the radiator fan working. on this forum i read about the 'eccm" under the hood under the air intake. question = if i remove the "eccm" and i screw up the solder job will everything on the car work except the coldness of the a/c ? also if i choose to ignore this problem can i use my defroster without fear of the a/c compressor locking up and leaving me stranded ? thanks for any advice. Jim.

jamesmetairie

If i find a used ccrm at the salvage yard it is 100% necessary to have the correct part # ? Will ccrm with a incorrect part # damage anything ?

Davescort97

If the soldering job hasn't made contact with any neighboring electrical circuits I don't see any problem. Everything will work except the coldness of the A/C.

If you ignore this problem it will be all right to use your defroster because the circuit for the A/C compressor is open due to faulty circuit on the CCRM.

As long as you get a CCRM from a '99 with the same kind of transmission (Manual or Automatic) you won't have any problem with incorrect part numbers. If it looks like what you've got it will be okay. In other words, if it will accept your electrical harness it will work all right. This may include '97-'02. Ask at the salvage if these are the same. They should know.

There's the possibilty that the problem isn't the CCRM. The A/C system could be low on freon preventing the clutch on the compressor from engaging. To diagnose this problem jump the clutch cycling switch on the top of the accumulator. The accumulator is a metal bottle just to the right of the wiindsield washer fluid reservoir on the firewall. It has a low pressure switch with 2 wires running into it. Pull the electrical connector off the top of the accumulator and jump it with a wire connecting the two prong openings. If you hear the compressor clutch click on the problem is with low freon in the system not the CCRM. Don't run it very long with low freon or it will damage the compressor. If this doesn't engage the compressor I would be looking at the CCRM just as you have said.

jamesmetairie

[quote=Davescort97]If the soldering job hasn't made contact with any neighboring electrical circuits I don't see any problem. Everything will work except the coldness of the A/C.

If you ignore this problem it will be all right to use your defroster because the circuit for the A/C compressor is open due to faulty circuit on the CCRM.

As long as you get a CCRM from a '99 with the same kind of transmission (Manual or Automatic) you won't have any problem with incorrect part numbers. If it looks like what you've got it will be okay. In other words, if it will accept your electrical harness it will work all right. This may include '97-'02. Ask at the salvage if these are the same. They should know.

There's the possibilty that the problem isn't the CCRM. The A/C system could be low on freon preventing the clutch on the compressor from engaging. To diagnose this problem jump the clutch cycling switch on the top of the accumulator. The accumulator is a metal bottle just to the right of the wiindsield washer fluid reservoir on the firewall. It has a low pressure switch with 2 wires running into it. Pull the electrical connector off the top of the accumulator and jump it with a wire connecting the two prong openings. If you hear the compressor clutch click on the problem is with low freon in the system not the CCRM. Don't run it very long with low freon or it will damage the compressor. If this doesn't engage the compressor I would be looking at the CCRM just as you have said.[/QUOTE = Previously it was always extremely ice cold right up till the problem hit instantly. If it was running low on freon would it have been blowing warmer air progressively untill it finally stopped blowing any cool air at all?

Davescort97

It must be the CCRM because the output on low freon would get less and less cold until the low pressure switch cut it off. But, then again if you had a big leak it could go warm real fast. I'd jump the low pressure switch just to make sure it wasn't low freon keeping the compressor clutch from engaging. No harder than it is to do. It's a considerable amount of work to pull the CCRM and drill the rivets out and solder it then seal it and bolt it back up. Hey, I hear ya. Anything you can fix yourself is better than paying somebody else.