Dealer wants $450.00 to change differentials,transmission and transfer case. I know taking it to a regular mechanic will be cheaper but is it wise to do so. What would you do?I know some of you will say do it myself but I really don't want to take on this job.

The only thing I take my trucks to the dealer for are to be scanned for trouble codes and anything covered by the factory re: ABS sensors. I have a shop near my house that charges $58 per hour if you buy parts from them and $70 if you don't. Kinda expensive to have anything done but they are good...and they even have a scanner that can read ABS codes and bleed the brakes.

The main thing is to check around first and find a good deler or repair shop.
All dealers do not use all factory trained techs.

Check around Ask around
Word of mouth.
Family friends coworkers neighbors business people and delivery people.
Mailmen and parcel delivery people get around and notice a lot of stuff.
Even a good parts house knows what shops are good and not good.
Chamber of commerce and better business bureau and city hall.
If you find a good referral to a repair shop go look them over and talk to them.
Look for a clean looking busy place with nice people running it.
Ask a few questions and ask about their qualifications and training.
Not all places have trained tech/mechanics.
If they do not find a place that does.
Even all dealers do not have all trained techs/mechanics.

On the service make sure they use the proper fluids and beware of the transmission flushes.
Most cases the pan drop and filter change is the best way to go on transmission.
Good Luck
MT

As far as the tranny the dealer said if the fuid was maintained properly you should'nt have to drop the pan and change the screen. They will pump it out and add fresh fluid at the same time. That way they do not add new fluid to the old. By dropping the pan you don't get it all out. Is this true?

As far as the tranny the dealer said if the fuid was maintained properly you should'nt have to drop the pan and change the screen. They will pump it out and add fresh fluid at the same time. That way they do not add new fluid to the old. By dropping the pan you don't get it all out. Is this true?

The dealer is feeding you full of bull.

Find another dealer or a good repair shop to service it right.



To Flush or not To Flush ?
Just like Kenney Rodgers said you have got to know when to fold and when to hold.
If the fluid has high mileage 100K or over or is real dirty you had better hold.
On a trans that has had good regular service at 50K or sooner a flush is good.
But be ware of jiffie/quick/wallmart /fast lubes that offer power and fast flushes.
They have abused and over rated the trans flush.
They have a habit of using one fit all fluid out of the same barrel that fits all.
They just throw in a bottle of additive to make it fit all. Or worse they pitch in a bottle of cleaner or dope in it that can do more harm than good. And will tell you the filter does not need changing with a flush.
Just remember that all new fluid makes a high detergent cleaner that will break loose all varnish and dirt and grit in the trans and drop it in valve body and solenoids.
Always change the filter and go easy on or use no dope and cleaner.
Adjust/check the bands and linkage on the trans that have bands and adjustments.
Always use the trans fluid the trans/manf calls for. And be aware that some manf have changed the type of fluid specs since the trans was manf.
Some fords have changed the specs and a lot of cry/dodge have gone to the newer type of fluid on their trans service.
Also some fords have tsb’s and require a total complete trans flush to cure trans shifting problems. Some as low as 30K
If a person does not have a flush machine a old 5 gallon bucket and a couple of rubber hoses to connect to the cooler lines and with the other end in the bucket will make a good flush machine. Just put the hoses in the bucket and start the engine and start pouring fluid into the trans until the fluid running into the bucket gets good and clean.
It usually takes 16-20 qts. To get a good flush.
Flush or No flush always service the trans filter and trans on a good regular basic.
People that keep the serviced have a lot less trans problems.

Several people have advised me to have the pan dropped and filter changed that way your not sucking slugg through the system. About how many guarts does it take and is it just plain Dextra III or should I use the OEM fluid? Wondering if it has an additive.

Depending on how the flush is done, pan removal and "filter" replacement may not be necessary. The majority of "filters" are just screens that keep big chunks out. BG makes a flush kit that has a really good cleaner that will disolve nearly all deposits. I have flushed tranmissions that start with slightly darkened fluid, and by the end of the cleaning it is pitch black. Then after the flush, it is bright red.

I did a flush on a Camry that had black trans fluid (before the cleaner) and smelled like toast cooked twice on the "dark" setting. It had nearly 200K on it, and was fine after the flush. That is not always true, but high mileage alone isn't a reason not to flush a transmission.

We always use BG synthetic fluid with our flushes (which works with all except HEAVY duty transmissions, CVTs, and a couple model-specific), and have never had a comeback.

NEVER just drop the pan alone. The new transmission fluid will start to disovle deposits and the chunks can stick in the valves causing the clutch/band for the slightly stuck open valve to burn up in a few miles.

Yep I knew it. Some people say flush some say not to flush. Wish I knew the right answer!! There is nothing wrong with my tranny it has 76k on it and the fluid still looks and smells like new. I just want to change it before it really needs it.

I always drop my pan, replace the filter and refill the fluid. I do it every 50k and use the fluid specified in the owners manual, no additive.

Has worked great for me so far.

You may want to ask around at shops in your area. I believe BG will pay for a rebuild if your transmission fails after the flush if you're under 100K.

There's a thread in the C/K/Silverado/suburban/tahoe group about flushing the transmission... somewhere... I was looking for it, but gave up. I gave a very detailed explanation of the flush process. There really is no down side to a flush if it is done properly. That is the key. Do what MT said about finding a shop (I would disagree about a clean shop. If there's grease on the servicewriters desk... maybe go elsewhere. If the shop area is spotless, someone is being paid to clean it regularly. You're paying for it to be clean.)

And to get to your original question, I would go with an independant repair shop (partially biased, guess where I work? :)). If you have a really hard to diagnose drivability problem, I'd go to the dealer because they have the GM scan tools and more experience with GM vehicles. For most work, however, just find a good mechanic. Price aside, it doesn't matter where you go, just how good they are.

04 should have Dexron 4 in it.
Dexron 3 has been dicontuined.
On older GM with dexron 3 GM says to change over to Dexron 4.
How ever I like to stay with Dexron 3 on older ones that have it in there.
Some places have some dexron 3 left.
And Carquest has a good supply of mercon/dexron fluid which is the same as dexron 3.

Yep I knew it. Some people say flush some say not to flush. Wish I knew the right answer!! There is nothing wrong with my tranny it has 76k on it and the fluid still looks and smells like new. I just want to change it before it really needs it.
pan must be removed at all fluid changes. oem filter is better than some after market filters. I got my deep pan filter from NAPA the filter was exactly the same including the marks molded in the plastic. I use syn. mobil fluid now dextron 4. bottom of pan debris builds up. carefully clean pan I use mineral spirits and blow dry with hair dryer [no lint] sometimes I replace filter sometimes not. Every first fluid change on all my vehicles from 1973 at 20,000mi is the dirtest. my 1996 impala at 20,000 was the worst the 2000 sil was the cleanest.no metal but dirt. now at 120,000 the fluid and pan stay clean with 30,000mi fluid changes.since my first vehicle in 1967 I have never had transmission failure, dirt,heat, and neglect kill transmissions.flush jobs most profit for repair shop less time.............
Make sure you use tracII fluid in transfer case takes 3 qts approx. do not over tighten plugs,remove top plug first do not use dextron transmission fluid.replace transfer case 30-50,000mi.must go to dealer to get this fluid.......

I dont have the records since I just bought my truck but at 96K I'm planning on doing one soon. About how many quarts to fill after I drop the pan? Also who should I get the filter from, dealer or what parts store?

From what I read does the cleaner make all of the deposits at the bottom of the pan or does the new fluid?

I dont have the records since I just bought my truck but at 96K I'm planning on doing one soon. About how many quarts to fill after I drop the pan? Also who should I get the filter from, dealer or what parts store?

From what I read does the cleaner make all of the deposits at the bottom of the pan or does the new fluid?
on silverado deep pan is 5 quarts on 96 impala which does not have deep pan its 3.5 quarts when I do the first fluid change on any vehicle on any componet I measure what I took out that way I know how much to put in as in transmission you dont want to suck out excessive fluid to get correct level. before on older vehicles I owned I would suck out all the fluid I could then drop pan if no plug less mess............

I dont have the records since I just bought my truck but at 96K I'm planning on doing one soon. About how many quarts to fill after I drop the pan? Also who should I get the filter from, dealer or what parts store?

From what I read does the cleaner make all of the deposits at the bottom of the pan or does the new fluid?
the napa #1-8567 transmission filter kit is the exact replacement [exact] as the original napa cost 20.00 dealer 57.oo great deal other part stores like the autozone had some re engineered filter design that made the neck of the filter longer this allowed the filter to suck all the dirt at the bottom of the pan, defeating the original design of the oem design that sucks from 1inch above pan bottom. If you don't know I guess you should go to dealer this time to get correct replacement since its possible you have the incorrect filter in there. transmissions get dirt from manufacturing and componet wear. if transmission is properly maintained and not abused as time goes by debris will reduce to a small discoloration at pan bottom. cleaners are only used to clean pan and no residue should be allowed when assembling......seal conditioners are only needed when transmission has not been properly maintained. If you go by the GM manual and do this ever 100,000mi the people at the dealership will love ya................