There is a row of both Phillips pan head and 7mm HWH screws around the perimeter of the wheel opening. There are also screws through the inner fender/splash guard holding it in place. With the moulding and inner fender removed, the rear fender mount bolts are accessible. Mind the locations and number of shims, since that will be your starting point when bolting on the replacement. There will also be two screws at the lower rear edge (dogleg) holding the fender to the rocker panel. There are a few screws holding the front valance/bumper to the fender, and the row of bolts along the upper fender rail under the hood.
If the fender is cracked in an accessible area, it can be repaired in place. 3M offers a couple of very good adhesive/filler products specifically for that purpose. I used that to repair this one:
About $80 in paint and clearcoat later, and a used moulding, and it was like new.