jasguild

I have 1997 Camry and every so often my driver side power window stops working. It will go up half way and stop. After a few minutes, it will continue to go like 2 inches at a time. Some times it may take me as much as 30 minutes to get it all the way up back.

Anyone else has this problem?? Any practical solution??

Thanks

jasguild

davemac2

It is likely the power window motor is shot. I believe you can buy that separately from the full regulator assembly now at the dealer, but it will cost you a pretty penny. You will need to take off the door's interior panel and have a look. Best to order it from supplier below:

http://toyotadiscountparts.com/

dave mc

jasguild

I think I may have some more hints as to what the problem is.

I noticed that all the switches on the driver door are acting wierd. For eg, pressing the electric door lock on the driver side, only sometime locks the driver door. In addition it does not always lock the passenger side door and rear doors. If you lock and unlock the electric lock from the driver door, continuously, after a while, it only moves the lock button like 1/4 way. At that point it takes like 4 hits continoulsly to move the lock to the locked position.

However, when I am on the passenger side, it locks all doors without a problme except the driver door.

When you coin this problem with the other problem I am having with the window, its almost like everything that is powered from the driver door is underpowered.

Any ideas?

Thanks

davemac2

yes I think you are on the right track. It does sound like you have some sort of intermittent open or bad ground on the power/ground leads going into that door or the switch control panel on the driver door is bad. Was the car ever involved in an accident on that side? You can try and remove that switch control panel and troubleshoot it with a voltmeter. Maybe the panel circuit board is cracked or something which is causing this. Inspect all the wire connections in the back for any loosness or corrosion. It could also the the power or ground wire has an intermittent break in it somewhere such as near where the wiring harness enters the door near the hinge. You would have push/pull/twist the harness and hold it by hand to see if it affects the locks and window.

good luck

dave mc

Tonyoco

Have you resolved this yet? I have the same problem with my passenger front window on Camry 1998. However, it's not intermitent! In fact I've lived with it for over a year now! Fortunately, it's never absolutely necessary to open the passenger window!
One thing I have that you didn't mention is that it always goes down fine! it's going back up that's the problem!
I also have suspected the motor but, the Ok going down makes me wonder! It's also definately effected by time! IE if I wait 15-20 mins before trying again to raise it rather than 5 min, it moves more inches! because of this it seems like temperature is effecting something!

Thanks
Tony

jdmccright

I've got a '92 with 198k miles. I've had a rear driver side window that stopped working a ways back. I traced the problem to the front driver's side wiring harness. All that opening and closing of the door fatigues the wires running through the rubber boot between the door and the body. When I pulled the harness out and slid the boot away to view the affected area, I saw two more broken wires and three more with cracked insulation. By luck, the wire ends had stayed in contact with each other except for one of two for the rear window.

I bought a replacement through a used parts yard (donor vehicle had ~129k miles) and inspected that one prior to installation. It had two wires in that same area with fatigue cracking of the insulation. I taped each one up with electrical tape to reinforce them and then wrapped additional electrical tape around that portion of the harnesss and slid the rubber boot back over it and more tape to secure the boot ends.

A quick check can be done by pinching the rubber boot while trying to work the window. If doing this makes it work, then the break is in there. A more thorough check (highly recommended) should be done by pulling the driver door panel off and remove the small plastic kick panel next to the driver's dead pedal. Unplug the two harness ends from the driver's power window control and the kick panel connection and do continuity check for each wire. Having an electrical diagram from a Haynes manual or similar saved me the trouble by labeling each wire color.

One wire broken might be repairable but make sure the spliced ends don't happen at that fatigue area under the boot. Tape up any others that show signs of cracking insulation. Hope this helps!

__________________
Current Garage:
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2003 GMC Envoy XL (aka "fat-a$$") - K&N air filter, otherwise stock.
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Vehicle History:
2004 4.7L Dakota Quad Cab 4x4
1996 GMC Jimmy 4wd
1992 Chevrolet S10 Ext. Cab 4.3L
1995 Honda ST1100...my first (and only) new vehicle.
1980 Yamaha XS400
1980 Mercury Bobcat...my first car.

DFBonnett

Often this type of problem can be traced to a faulty reed switch which is integral to the motor.
FWIW
YMMV