There is some fine cracks developing on my '98 Windstar with 86K miles. The previous owner obviously changed the tensioner assembly and I assume that he changed the belt also. Still the belt is getting old.

So how easy is it to change out the belt? Any point to pay special attention to on this vehicle? Thank you for your advice.

lidation

The hardest thing about changing a belt is the lack of room! I would rent a belt tensioner tool from some place like Autozone. I bought one and wouldn't be without it. It makes it sooooo much easier than trying to use a short open end wrench. The next hardest thing is the belt routing. Most vehicals have the routing on a lable under the hood. Before you take the old belt off take good note....(maby even a dig pic) of how the old one is routed.

I hope this helps.

Regards

Dan

On our 99' wasn't too bad but it is a different body style. The easy way for me was to turn the wheels right and the tensioner is right inside the wheel well.

edited b/c was-> wasn't

I just changed my 98 here last spring and the pulley tensioner as well. The belt was the easiest and it took me 10 minutes. There is a square hole on the back of the tensioner that fits a 3/8 Ratchet. Put the ratchet in and pull the tensioner towards you and remove the belt. If there isnt the hole on the tensioner (some aftermarket dont have them) then I just pulled on the belt towards me and slid it off the lower water pump pulley when I had enough slack. Putting on is the reverse. Pretty easy actually.

good luck

I have a 96 & and 01 and I don't use any tools to replace the serpentine belt. Route the belt according to the diagram and save the alternator pulley for last. This will test your grip, but just pull the belt toward the front and slip it over the alternator pulley. I have changed the belt twice on both Windstars this way. And yes, my tensioner has recently been replaced.

BEFORE removing the old one....double check that the sticker that shows the routing is still on the underside of the hood....and still can be read.
If it is not there, you should be able to locate it on the Autozone website under the free vehicle specific repair guides.

In other words.....make sure that you have a diagram to follow to install before you remove the old one.

Another note......the smooth pulleys get the smooth side of the belt......the grooved pulleys get the grooved side of the belt.

My 2000 did not have the sticker under the hood, so here is a jpg of the route

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/so2315/Beltdiagram.jpg

I need help. I'm remplace my serpentine belt, but when I put it back and start my van (windstar 96, 3.8 engine) the belt come off. Any reason for? If possible the belt tensioner is broke? Remplace the belt tensioner, is easy? Can somebody help me please. Is a cool wather here and i need go to work. Thank you

If the belt came off, chances are that it didn't seat properly on one or more of the pulleys. Just put it back on, but before starting the engine, make sure it's properly seated on all the pulleys. If the old belt didn't come off the same way, the pulleys are most likely not the problem. It's easy to overlook seating when you're in a hurry. Remember to double check your work!
SAMSUNG-SGH-A177/A177UCIC3 Profile/MIDP-2.0 Configuration/CLDC-1.1 UP.Browser/6.2.3.3.c.1.101 (GUI) MMP/2.0 UP.Link/6.3.1.17.06.3.1.17.0

If it was staying on before you replaced it, a new one should stay on too. Check the sticker showing the belt routing, and make sure it is on correct. Some of the pulleys have grooves in them and a higher groove on each side. Make sure the belt is between the high grooves and not on one. Also loosen and move it around until it is centered on the non grooved pulleys. It should stay on, if it starts right.

There's a few videos on youtube!
Do a google ''youtube serpentine belt''

It's real easy using a serpentine belt tool, and focus on the two pulleys in the center, that keeps the tenshion on the belt.

I'm check and i try put back like 4 times... The tensioner don't look aline with the other pulleys. So.. in my inexpert opinion i think is the tensioner problem. My next question is: I see online the tensioner price for like 40 dollars, this is not the problem, my concert is how difficult is put this tensioner back on. Is only 1 nut on the center and what kind at wrinch need for. Thank for the next quote

On my '96, 3.8L replacing the tensioner is easier than taking off the belt (in terms of the available space). There is only one bolt to remove. You may need to "impact" it to break it loose. I believed I used a 2 lb sledge or a 16 oz hammer on a combination wrench to get things started.

On my '96 3.8L......it does look slightly off angle......due to a optical illusion with the angle of items next to it.
Does the belt seem to not be sraight on it?......does it seem to hold tension on the belt?

One thing that I found out.....AutoZone used to list 2 different sizes for the 1996, 3.8L Windstar.
I think that it has to do with the size of A/C compressor pulley.
TSB 97-17-11 is to address a 'moaning' sound that the A/C system can cause....particularly when the outside temperature is 80 degrees.
From reading the TSB....it seems like the sound is from some sort of harmonic that can take place between different components.....and they found that increasing the diameter of the A/C clutch pulley (which the serpentine belt rides on) prevented the moan sound from happening.
So.....you will want to make sure that you have the correct size belt....there is something like 1" difference in the length between the 2 sizes.......otherwise the belts are identical (same width....grooves....
If, like me, you are not the original owner.......you may not be able to determine if the TSB has been done.....
However, I can imagine the wrong size belt as a possible cause.....too long.......not enough tension......and/or the tensioner would not be in the correct position (extended out too far).

In my case....I know that I have the smaller size......as it is the one that has worked for me....and I sometimes hear that moaning sound.....in very hot weather......but it is so rare that I am not going to fuss with it.


It is easy to get the routing wrong......I have done it.......I realize it right away as I am doing it.........because of this........
The smooth side of the belt goes ONLY on a smooth pulley.
The grooved side of the belt goes ONLY on a grooved pulley.

I know it sounds basic......but when you find yourself trying to put a smooth with a grooved......you know right away that you have it wrong.

Now......except for the crank pulley....at the bottom of the motor......ALL the pulleys should turn easily......if you cannot turn a pulley......other than the big crank pulley.....then it is defective.

Also..before your start the motor....Set your climate control to VENT or OFF......not any other setting.
This will make SURE that your A/C is not cycling on......just in case that is the problem.

I put the belt in the two position possible. I'm start the engine and I can see the tensioner is bad, now, i'm try remove the bold from the tensioner but I can't. I'm use 18mm wrench and at bar for it and I can't move a mm. Put oil try pull out more easy en my next intent. I'm bang with at hummer and nothing happen. So, any other suggestion for the tension remove? Thanks

some of those bolts can be super hard to break free....
You might try soaking the bolt that you want to remove with PBlaster.....it seems to work as well as anything....and you can buy it at most auto part stores.

I remember it was hard to get that bolt to break free. I used a nice heavy hammer on my wrench. I think the factory uses thread locking compound on the bolt.

Make sure you're turning the right direction (ccw when looking at the head of the bolt).

BTW, in my case, this repair was required because the tensioner was 'frozen' which allowed the serpentine to slip. The tensioner bearing (actually a bushing) was worn out and the tensioner arm was cocked out of alignment.

Thank you so much to everyone quote and help me with my trouble. I all ready change de tensioner and all work perfect. This 18mm bolt is the more hard bolt I never ever take :). Again.. Thank you and now i'm ready for the next question: When my van ride for a capo miles.. the oil light come on and flashing anytime i'm stop. Some body talk me i need to remplace the head gasket.. is that correct? Also the color of the smoke is white when the van starter. Thank you

Lower intake manifold gaskets and/or the front cover (timing cover) gaskets are the common leakers that get coolant into the oil.

The front cover gasket would not give you any coolant into the cylinders.
The lower intake manifold gaskets can leak coolant into the intake.....which is then drawn into the cylinders.........fooling people into thinking that it is the head gasket.

Most ANY motor will give you the white smoke when you first start it up in cold weather.
Are you needing to add coolant to the vehicle?

In any case.....if the oil pressure light is coming on.....you need to get that addressed ASAP as lack of oil......or coolant into the oil can cause MAJOR engine failure $$$$

If it is only at idle.....you may still be OK......but still need to look into it.
A shop can do a oil pressure testing for you.....and advise you from there.
If it is a defective switch....then you would want to get it replaced.
In any case......a pressure gauge connected to the oil pressure switch location is in order.......to see if the oil pressure is within specifications.

The oil pressure switch is located in a hard to get to location......under the power steering pump bracket.....

Here is a link to a picture from my '96 3.8L that shows the oil pressure switch......the picture was taken with the alternator, power steering pump and bracket removed.
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1349972354011220610YwOpbP