gdguysteven

Here's my problem... Recently I've been having stalling issues with my '96 Chevy Cavalier (Automatic, 2.2 L).

Symptoms:
- the car stalls after I drive it around for a while less than 30 minutes. This especially happens now that were in the hot summer weather months, particularly when the outside temperature get to be over the 100 degree mark. And with the a/c on...or, even w/o the a/c on...it has been doing this! That when it really begins to act up! The stalling is accompanied very little bit of shaking and jerking (as if the car is not getting enough gas) and then it just dies out .
- the stalling usually occurs after the car's speed has been reduced (i.e. making a turn), but most always when decelerating to come to a stop light.
- after the car stalls, it does not start up right away. It requires about 5-10 minutes cool down time and of waiting before it can get going again. I began to think this was the typical symptom of a faulty TCC solenoid -(which would start right away but stall when the car is put into drive). The car doesn't seem to stall when put into gear, but engine is running but acts sometimes like it is not engaged in drive with little rpms registering and doesn't move for a short time...until it finally engages into gear and runs. That is, until it when decelerating to a slower speed again, then it just stalls and cuts out all over again. I tried when this happening to unplug the electrical power supply connection of nose-piece of automatic transmission, of which the overdrive is powered by and controlled by the TCC. After doing this the car still stalls!!!
Attempts at fixing the problem:
- I have found that when initially starting the car in PARK the RPMs was exactly 1,000 RPMs, but that will lower to about 600 to 700 RPMS and when it is running and hot and coming to stops. I wanted to get any and all of your views on my car's situation and maybe somebody can help my car.

gdguysteven

Sorry, It's me again!!!!!!!! But another question of mine too, would be about these RPMS readings...is 600 RPMS far too low for a hot engine to maintain an adequate idling speed to keep an engine from stalling and cutting-out at stops????
What would be the explaination for these lower idling speed reading at stops when the engine is hot and running for less than 30 minutes????
Please...What do you guys think the problem is? Any help you guys can provide would be much appreciated. Thanks! Steven.

shakewell

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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!!!!!!??????

wtf????????!!!!!!

Using all of that exclamation crap is like walking into a room full of people and screaming your head off.


Oh, and change your fuel filter already.

mike2004tct

Had the same problem with my daughter's '96 Sunfire.

The only thing I didn't replace was the coil packs and Ignition module.

I did replace the EGR. IAC valve, TPS, and had the Crank Position Sensor replaced.

My mechanic guessed it would be the coil pack.
This was after he charged me $325.00 to replace the CPS. I didn't replace it because it was impossible to get at, on the back of the engine block, same as the coils and Ign module.

I wasn't about to guess on a $400.00 part.
Luckily, my wife backed over the front end of the car with my Blazer. So I salvaged it.

__________________
It's my opinion, don't take it personal.
'04 T&C, '97 Blazer, '97 Sunfire, '85 Vette, '79 Civic, 94 FLSTC